Blowing coolant out the overflow tank. Head gasket or block??

[JiFaire]

Simone - yes, once you take out all of the exhaust manifold bolts, the two manifolds will drop down enough for the heads to be removed without taking the crossover off....they stay together like a horseshoe...

Ah, the voice of experience... see, I would have taken the damn things off. And probably broke something. And swore a lot.

No day is wasted when I learn something new. Thanks, Chris!

 

[simone0414]

Started tearing stuff apart today. Figured I start on the passenger side. Read somewhere that's the hardest side. So far I have been at it for 3 hours & have the air box, battery, inner fender , CDR & the turbo off.:smile5: Some of the bolts were a bit hard to get at & had to stand on my head a bit but it's off. I unbolted the big exhaust pipe from the turbo & from the exhaust pipe under the truck & took it out. Bolts broke off under the truck. No biggy though. Will get them out & put new in. So far no holy sh@# moment where I feel I am screwed.lol. Long ways to go though. It has been raining here off & on so my day has been cut pretty short. I have been taking pictures as I go & will post when I figure out how to do that but one thing I noticed In the line that goes from the intake side of the turbo to the CDR there was quite a bit of oil sludge buildup. Must be 1/4" thick. Is this normal?

 

[simone0414]

Simone - yes, once you take out all of the exhaust manifold bolts, the two manifolds will drop down enough for the heads to be removed without taking the crossover off....they stay together like a horseshoe...[/QUOTE]

That's sweet!!! Thanks a bunch for that tip. I'm definetly going to try that. Hopefully that will save me alot of time & grief. Man I love this site!!!


I might be able to get my hands on an engine hoist so I don't kill myself taking the heads out & putting them in & damage the gaskets.

 

[chrisk1500]

The downpipe didn't have to be removed from the rest of the exhaust system....just from the turbo...oh well....

 

[MRB 6.5TD]

They aren't so heavy you need to waste time with an engine hoist. Similar to a bag of concrete.

 

[simone0414]

I removed the downpipe because it looked difficult to get at the manifold studs behind it. Anyway its off. There was a stud broke off where it bolts onto the cat so good time to replace it.
Can anyone comment on the oil sludge buildup in the CDR line? My wastegate solenoid wasn't working right for about two weeks. I was getting low boost. Could that have caused it or is that normal?
Worked on it again tonight. Got the manifold studs out of the head on the passenger side. They all came out with just using PB blaster. No heat. I couldn't belive it. Thought for sure I would need heat. I have left it connected to the crossover. It doesn't seperate from the head very far but I guess you don't need much room to get the head out & back in. Got most of my veg conversion off. Coolant is drained, upper rad hose & bracket, fan shroud, upper intake is off. Started on the lower intake but have shut it down for the night.
Looks like the drivers side could be fun. Any tips for that side? Thought about taking the inner fender off on that side but I don't know if I should be fooling with the antilock brake thingy & the fuse block. Looks like the steering column is whats going to be in the way.
What about the wiring harnesses that run along the back of the engine? Can I just work around them? Like they may be in the way of getting the back studs out of the heads.
Can I resuse the exhaust manifold studs? The ones I have out so far don't look that bad.
I know the head bolts have to be put in in sequence but does it matter what sequence I take them out? I'm guessing it doesn't.
I thought about getting a engine hoist more for putting them back in. I thought there would be less chance of damaging a gasket.

Sorry for so many questions but I just want to make sure I don't screw up something.

 

[MRB 6.5TD]

Pull the wheel well out if its gonna help. Its just a bunch of 13mm bolts. Takes 5 mins with an air ratchet.... ABS THingie? Unplug it. Stop being scared of breaking things. Its a truck, mechanics are rough and tough and with these parts. Take your time and be careful, and you wont break anything.

Wire Harness's are meant to unplug, so don't be afraid to break anything that comes apart easily.

You're doing good. Keep it up and you're on the right track.

This is quality bonding between you and your rig right now. Enjoy it

 

[BigArt]

I can't comment on most of your questions as I have never done a job like that. At least on these diesels. Hopefully won't have to..... Small block chevys another story. :smile5:

But it sounds like this would be a good time for a turbo master type set up, boost guage, and a vac pump delete.

Regards,
Art

 

[simone0414]

I can't comment on most of your questions as I have never done a job like that. At least on these diesels. Hopefully won't have to..... Small block chevys another story. :smile5:

But it sounds like this would be a good time for a turbo master type set up, boost guage, and a vac pump delete.

Regards,
Art

I agree but until I know what kind of $$$ it's going to cost to fix my lady I really can't think of adding any more $$ to her. I it is not alot of money but I don't have alot right now & other bills are calling.

 

[chrisk1500]

Can anyone comment on the oil sludge buildup in the CDR line?

Post a pic....

It doesn't seperate from the head very far but I guess you don't need much room to get the head out & back in.

Once both manifolds are unbolted, they will drop down farther....

Looks like the drivers side could be fun. Any tips for that side?

Don't pull the fender. There is plenty of room to get things done....more room than the passenger side! I remember needing to use a variety of ratchet extensions to get the job done.... Also, I used a box end wrench for most of the exhaust manifold bolts on the passenger side....Make sure they fit nice and tight and then give the end of the wrench a smack with a hammer...

What about the wiring harnesses that run along the back of the engine? Can I just work around them? Like they may be in the way of getting the back studs out of the heads.

You can work around the harness....like I said before, there are bolts that are in the back of the heads (between the back of the head and the firewall). Once those are out, you will see how the harness snakes back there...

Can I resuse the exhaust manifold studs? The ones I have out so far don't look that bad.

Yes. Use antiseize on install....

I know the head bolts have to be put in in sequence but does it matter what sequence I take them out? I'm guessing it doesn't.

I take them out in sequence....just to be on the safe side...

I thought about getting a engine hoist more for putting them back in. I thought there would be less chance of damaging a gasket.

I wouldn't go to that extreme. Just know that they are a touch on the heavy and awkward side of things....have extra gaskets just in case....

Sorry for so many questions but I just want to make sure I don't screw up something.

Ask away....

 

[JiFaire]

I know the head bolts have to be put in in sequence but does it matter what sequence I take them out? I'm guessing it doesn't.

It probably doesn't, but I always take 'em out in reverse sequence. (start at the outsides and work to the inside, counterclockwise.

When you put 'em back in, start on the inside and work your way out, clockwise.

You're doin' Grrreeeat!!

 

[simone0414]

Ok so I have the lower intake off & all the bolts out of the coolant crossover. tried to take it out without moving the ac compressor but of course cannot. So how do I take the tension off the belt to unbolt the ac? I'm going to go on to other stuff & come back to this later.

 

[JiFaire]

Put an open-end wrench on the bolt that's in the middle of the idler pulley, and lift... the idler will back off and you can remove the serpentine belt.

HINT: draw a diagram of how the belt fits (what path it follows, around what pulleys) before you do this! - It makes it easier to put back.

To replace when done, thread the belt properly, lift up on the idler again, and slip the belt back over it.

 

[simone0414]

thanks. There is a diagram on the fan shroud. I should be able to go by that. I have run into a bit of a snag. Got 5 manifold bolts out of the drivers side but the last 3 stripped.:sad: Going to have to heat or cut them off. It looks doable though. Not too surprised. figured there would be at least one. Everything else seems to be going pretty well. Taking about as long as I thought it would. I might have everything off by the end of the day.

 

[chrisk1500]

Try a 6 point 15mm deep socket on the bolts before you cut them off....

 

[JiFaire]

I agree with Chris... if you cut the heads off those bolts, you'll have to pull the crossover in order to slide the exhaust manifold out away from the head (over those 3 bolts). Try the 6-pt first... then try using a hacksaw and file and cutting the bolt head into something you can get a wrench on, if you have to.

See diagram.

 

[simone0414]

Try a 6 point 15mm deep socket on the bolts before you cut them off....

Already tried that. Not quite sure how I am going to tackle this yet. Have moved onto other stuff for now.

 

[simone0414]

I agree with Chris... if you cut the heads off those bolts, you'll have to pull the crossover in order to slide the exhaust manifold out away from the head (over those 3 bolts). Try the 6-pt first... then try using a hacksaw and file and cutting the bolt head into something you can get a wrench on, if you have to.

See diagram.

I wasn't planning on cutting the heads off. I was going to try & cut them further up the bolt between the head & the manifold. This would leave most of the bolt in the manifold & I could still get the head off.

 

[simone0414]

I have the valvepan cover off the passenger head. Do I take the 4 bolts out that holds the rocker arms in? Do I have to take out the pushrods as well?

 

[JiFaire]

I wasn't planning on cutting the heads off. I was going to try & cut them further up the bolt between the head & the manifold. This would leave most of the bolt in the manifold & I could still get the head off.

No, No, No. If you do that, then you gotta try to use an easy-out to get the rest out of the head... will probably need to take them to a shop and have them do it. I'd prefer to cut the bolt-head off, myself.

Try modifying the head of the bolt first, as I indicated. It lets you get a decent grip on it with a wrench..