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Blowing coolant out the overflow tank. Head gasket or block??

simone0414 said:
Keep it coming guys. I can't tell you how much I appriciate your help. No way could I do this without it.

So I don't have to pull the injectors? Glows?? The machine shop can still work on the heads that way? I don't have a injector socket but could probably find one if necessary? How do you take the lines off the IP & injectors? Is it as simple as putting a wrench on & turning?
Click to expand...

You will need to remove the injectors and glow plugs to get the heads checked. I would also buy some plastic caps to fit over the injector thread's to keep crud out.

Lines are 3/4 so you'll need a wrench and a crowfoot to get the lines off the IP.

Buy a new return line kit as well. If you buy a complete upper gasket set, you'll get all the necessary gaskets and the injector seals. IF the injectors are old or you have over 100K someone suggested, replace the injectors, cheap insurance.
 
How do I tell if the block is bad?

Been looking on SS Diesel. With exchange & shipping they would be cheaper then me buying local. Are they a good company to buy from?

Is a proper injector socket the only way to get them out? If so as of right now I don't know where I would get one locally. Any suggestions? Do you need anything special to get the glows out? I will probably buy new glows. I'm on a real tight budget so I have to give injectors some thought.

Are the head bolts easy to get at? I'm guessing there's at least one that's a bitch. There always is. Anything else hard to get at?
 
Don't forget you'll need new upper and lower intake gaskets, and I needed a square of blank gasket material for a water jacket up front.

Red RTV for manifolds, find out what RTV you need for the threads of the head bolts.

If you are keeping the truck no matter what, it is a perfect time to swap out the oil cooler lines with Stainless Steel kit from a vendor. It will never get easier.
 
simone0414 said:
How do I tell if the block is bad?

Been looking on SS Diesel. With exchange & shipping they would be cheaper then me buying local. Are they a good company to buy from?

Is a proper injector socket the only way to get them out? If so as of right now I don't know where I would get one locally. Any suggestions? Do you need anything special to get the glows out? I will probably buy new glows. I'm on a real tight budget so I have to give injectors some thought.

Are the head bolts easy to get at? I'm guessing there's at least one that's a bitch. There always is. Anything else hard to get at?
Click to expand...

1 3/16's deep socket will also do the injectors

I can't imagine how you're going to undo all the exhaust parts without a torch. I needed new x-over donuts and hardware too.
New manifold bolts i needed too. (hardware store)
 
simone0414 said:
How do I tell if the block is bad?

Been looking on SS Diesel. With exchange & shipping they would be cheaper then me buying local. Are they a good company to buy from?

Is a proper injector socket the only way to get them out? If so as of right now I don't know where I would get one locally. Any suggestions? Do you need anything special to get the glows out? I will probably buy new glows. I'm on a real tight budget so I have to give injectors some thought.

Are the head bolts easy to get at? I'm guessing there's at least one that's a bitch. There always is. Anything else hard to get at?
Click to expand...

By looking for cracks, MSW had good pointers for the bores, down below, either pull the pan and look or never mind.

Glow plugs are a deep 11 or 12mm socket, nothing special. You can use a deep socket on the injectors if your careful.

You will also need to thread sealer for the new head bolts, Permatex teflon sealer is the shit.

MRB 6.5TD said:
Don't forget you'll need new upper and lower intake gaskets, and I needed a square of blank gasket material for a water jacket up front.

Red RTV for manifolds, find out what RTV you need for the threads of the head bolts.

If you are keeping the truck no matter what, it is a perfect time to swap out the oil cooler lines with Stainless Steel kit from a vendor. It will never get easier.
Click to expand...

Red or orange? Orange hi temp copper RTV is awesome stuff for the manifolds or use the gaskets that come in the kit.

Gaskets also come in the kit for the thermostat manifold and block off plates.

MRB 6.5TD said:
1 3/16's deep socket will also do the injectors

I can't imagine how you're going to undo all the exhaust parts without a torch. I needed new x-over donuts and hardware too.
New manifold bolts i needed too. (hardware store)
Click to expand...

Depends on location, around here, no torch needed. :thumbsup:
 
Don't buy an engine from SS. I wouldn't. I'm sure this will be another sh#t stir but I don't believe in using RTV on intake or exhaust manifolds. IIRC the glows are 10 mm. You can use an Axle nut socket on the injectors if you can't get an injector socket.
 
Lots of road salt around here if that's what you mean. I know they won't come out without heat but I was hopeing that I could just cut them off with a mini grinder somehow & then take it to my mechanic & have him heat the studs to get them out. Not possible?? If I can't do that then I have a problem.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Don't buy an engine from SS. I wouldn't. I'm sure this will be another sh#t stir but I don't believe in using RTV on intake or exhaust manifolds. IIRC the glows are 10 mm. You can use an Axle nut socket on the injectors if you can't get an injector socket.
Click to expand...

No I'm not looking at buying a new engine. Just the gasket kit, studs & glows. Possibly injectors as well.
 
simone0414 said:
No I'm not looking at buying a new engine. Just the gasket kit, studs & glows. Possibly injectors as well.
Click to expand...

SSDiesel is ok, but Heath is another good one, he will help you even if you haven't bought anything from him, a really good guy, :thumbsup:
 
What ever you do don't by glows from him.

You can get the gasket kit from any parts house or order online from RockAuto. If you decide to change to studs you will need to get a 6.2 stud kit there isn't one listed for the 6.5 but the 6.2 will work.
 
The quick heat WAP plugs he sells are known to fail quickly and he will only warranty a couple out of a set of 8. Do a search on SSDiesel and glow plugs an you will find plenty.
 
Been doing some more reading & pondering & I am concerned that I may not have the tools(heat) & the experince to do this job properly. It may be more then I am willing to tackle. At the same time I have concerns that hiring the job done is going to cost more then the truck is worth to me. This really sucks though because the truck is running the best it has in a while. I have had the truck for 3 years & put almost 70 k on it pretty much trouble free & it runs great on veg but some of the reading I did indicated that my problem could easliy be a crack in the block. Please correct me if I am wrong guys. If its the block I am 99% sure that does it for me. Not fixing it.

I am all for doing things right the first time but I am seriously considering trying the GM tabs or something else. If it works even for a short time it will at least give me more time think about what I going to do.

From what I have read coolant system being pressurized & blowing off is a good sign of cracked block.

This is what I was reading. http://flashoffroad.com/Diesel/No8Cyl/CrackedBlock.htm The write up says its for Hummers but I'm assuming that trucks & Hummers have the same engine.
 
One more thing I forgot to mention. coolant system is still fully pressurized after truck sitting for 12 hours. Don't know if that helps narrow down anything or not though.
 
Simone where are you at? If you're close to me I could possible help out. I did the heads on mine couple years ago. I got mine from SS. I haven't had any problems with them.:smile5:
 
Man I wish I was close to you. I live in Nova Scotia. Thanks for the offer though.

Did you get new heads or head gaskets from SS? Their prices look pretty good.
 
Both along with bolts. Bolts are a must. They are one time use only. If were to do it again I would get studs, a little more money but alot stronger and reusable. Summit racing has them. Some here found them a little bit ago if you search their site they dont show up but they have them. Part #'s were posted too. Should be able to find them in a search on here.

Yes it would be little bit of a drive plus the new passport laws BS.

I did mine in the truck wasn't too bad 7-8 hours I think, but there were beer breaks. :)
 
I'm getting bolts for sure. Not going with studs. If it needs doing again this guy ain't doing it.

Going to get some of the GM tabs. What's the procedure for them. Pretty straight forward? Not expecting a cure all. Wouldn't that be nice though.Just a quick fix so I can have time to decide what I'm going to do. Crossing my fingers.:smile5:
 
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