Blowing coolant out the overflow tank. Head gasket or block??

[simone0414]

No, No, No. If you do that, then you gotta try to use an easy-out to get the rest out of the head... will probably need to take them to a shop and have them do it. I'd prefer to cut the bolt-head off, myself.

Try modifying the head of the bolt first, as I indicated. It lets you get a decent grip on it with a wrench..

LOL. I haven't done anything with that yet. I wasn't planning on cutting flush with the head anyway. From what I can see if I did this I would still be able to leave approx 2" of bolt sticking out of the head which would allow me to have something to grab onto to get the rest out of the head. I will see if there is enough room to try what you suggest. Last resort is to shear off or cut the crossover studs & pull the head & manifold out as one.

I got enough stuff off to be able to get the passenger head off. When I took the head bolts out the 2 or 3 in the back pissed coolant out the bolt holes when I took them out. When I took the head off there was a bunch of coolant in the back 2 cylinders. I'm no mechanic but me thinks dat not supossed to be der. To my very untrained eye the only thing I noticed that looked wrong was a spot at the bottom in the back on the block looked like it had a bit of surface rust. Didn't notice anything that stood out on the gasket & don't see any cracks in the head or block but I haven't cleaned anything up yet. I probably wouldn't notice a crack anyway.

I have lots of pictures to post but so far I can't figure out how to do that.

Once I deal with the maifold botls I have about 1 -2 hrs left & I should have the drivers side head off.

 

[turbovanman]

I have the valvepan cover off the passenger head. Do I take the 4 bolts out that holds the rocker arms in? Do I have to take out the pushrods as well?

The "valve cover"

Yes, you have to remove the rocker arms and shafts and the pushrods, try to keep the pushrods in order.

As for the A/C, if you haven't figured it out, simply remove the belt-MARK it so you put it back in the same rotation, remove the electrical connectors and the 13mm headed bolts, have the fender well covered with carpet/fender cover and lift the a/c over and rest on the fender, now its out of the way, :thumbsup:

Agreed with Jifaire, cut off the head, this leaves some stud left to use a stud puller or visegrips on to remove it easier.

 

[turbovanman]

LOL. I haven't done anything with that yet. I wasn't planning on cutting flush with the head anyway. From what I can see if I did this I would still be able to leave approx 2" of bolt sticking out of the head which would allow me to have something to grab onto to get the rest out of the head. I will see if there is enough room to try what you suggest. Last resort is to shear off or cut the crossover studs & pull the head & manifold out as one.

I got enough stuff off to be able to get the passenger head off. When I took the head bolts out the 2 or 3 in the back pissed coolant out the bolt holes when I took them out. When I took the head off there was a bunch of coolant in the back 2 cylinders. I'm no mechanic but me thinks dat not supossed to be der. To my very untrained eye the only thing I noticed that looked wrong was a spot at the bottom in the back on the block looked like it had a bit of surface rust. Didn't notice anything that stood out on the gasket & don't see any cracks in the head or block but I haven't cleaned anything up yet. I probably wouldn't notice a crack anyway.

I have lots of pictures to post but so far I can't figure out how to do that.

Once I deal with the maifold botls I have about 1 -2 hrs left & I should have the drivers side head off.

The head bolts go into the coolant passage, so when you remove the bolts, coolant leaks out and goes into the bores and the floor, this is NORMAL. If you have that much coolant in the engine bores, you would have hyrdrolocked the engine and most likely bent a rod or ripped off the starter.

 

[simone0414]

Well she was running fine right up till I shut her down so I would say no there wasn't that much in there.

 

[chrisk1500]

Make sure you keep the pushrods 'upside up' as I indicated in a previous post...they *should* go back into the same holes if possible...

 

[vail426]

IIRC the push-rod upside has a brassy color to it

 

[simone0414]

Make sure you keep the pushrods 'upside up' as I indicated in a previous post...they *should* go back into the same holes if possible...

As I took them out I pushed them through a piece of cardboard so I could keep them in order. They are upside up. Made a diagram for the injector lines as well & have either labled & baged eveything or put the bolts back into the holes.

 

[simone0414]

Well I got the last 3 manifold bolts out & didn't have to cut them off. My mechanic friend came down tonight & between a propane torch, a long extension & a impact wrench they came out. So hopefully a couple hours work tommorow will have the second head out. My buddy looked at the block & at the head I have out & he couldn't see anything that stood out. But nothing is cleaned up yet either. He offered to help me prepare the block & bleed the injectors as well. He noticed that there doesn't look like there was any manifold gaskets?? Do they require gaskets? He also looked at the CDR line with all the sludge & said he wasn't too surprised with the miles on my truck & just clean it out.

I have lots of pictures that I will post as soon as I figure out how to do that.

 

[BigArt]

RE: Posting pics

http://www.dieseltowingresource.com/showthread.php?t=6764

 

[JiFaire]

Way to go, Simone... we're all proud of ya! This job is going well, my friend!

 

[turbovanman]

Well I got the last 3 manifold bolts out & didn't have to cut them off. My mechanic friend came down tonight & between a propane torch, a long extension & a impact wrench they came out. So hopefully a couple hours work tommorow will have the second head out. My buddy looked at the block & at the head I have out & he couldn't see anything that stood out. But nothing is cleaned up yet either. He offered to help me prepare the block & bleed the injectors as well. He noticed that there doesn't look like there was any manifold gaskets?? Do they require gaskets? He also looked at the CDR line with all the sludge & said he wasn't too surprised with the miles on my truck & just clean it out.

I have lots of pictures that I will post as soon as I figure out how to do that.

There is no exhaust manifold gaskets, so if the surfaces look good, then don't use any. If you don't use some, then apply a light coat of high temp rtv for insurance.

You don't really need to bleed anything, if the filter isn't touched, then after its back together, just cycle the key to prime, it will self bleed and start fairly fast.

 

[simone0414]

I have run her out of fuel a few times when installing the veggi stuff & all I did was take the feed line off the IP, jump the LP until fuel was coming out of it & stick it back on the IP. Started up easy everytime so I'm hopeing that will work again.

I have the second head off & called the machine shop & asked if I need to take the injectors & glow plugs out for them to check it. They said it can be checked with them in but if any work needs to be done they should come out. They said they would take them out so I might just let them do it. They have the proper tools I don't. Anyway no signs of any problems on this side either but again I really don't know what I am looking for anyway.:smile5:

It took me about 18hrs to get them out. So far it has gone better then expected.

 

[625fireman]

Good job simone. My heads were cracked between the valves but it was very obvious. Rust stains along with white crusties..... When the shop magnafluxes them they will be able to see if they are cracked very easily. Hoping it is just gaskets for ya.

 

[chrisk1500]

If the injectors come out, they should be reinstalled with fresh copper crush washers....I'm sure the shop is aware of this....

Don't use gaskets for the exhaust manifolds...

 

[chrisk1500]

Can you see anywhere on the old headgaskets where the ring is blown out or seperated from the 'paper'?

 

[simone0414]

I don't see any damage anywhere on either gasket. Keep in mind though I don't know what I am looking for. My mechanic buddy looked at them as well & he didn't notice anything either. Also there was no signs of it burning coolant. He said that you would see spots where it looked liked it was wiped clean( I think that's what he said).

Heads are at the shop & I should know some time tommorow where I stand with them. I asked if they do many 6.5 heads & he said they do some & most of the time it is just the gasket that let go. Everyone I talk to says they are the best so I trust they will tell me what I need to do.

About the only good thing in having to do this job is it gives me an opportunity to see what running veggi has done to my engine. I have heard many times that veggi can cause coking. To my relief it appears that after putting approx. 10,000 km on running veg there are no signs of coking or any other problems that veg may have caused.:thumbsup: I guess there is a silver lining afterall.

As I said I do have pictures & I see the link that was provided but I just haven't had time to read it. I will post them when I get the chance but I have so many things on the go right now. We are going camping this weekend & now have to borrow my father-in- laws truck to tow the camper & I just found out he is not geared up for electric brakes!!! Got to scramble to get that done.:mad2: One thing to add to the never ending list.

 

[simone0414]

I found an add on the other site for glows & injectors. They are out of a 93 with a 6.2 in it. he's not sure if they will fit my engine or not. The injectors are "C" code, short style, bosch nozzles, rebuilt but accurate diesel. They have 10,000 miles on them & price is $50 for all 8. The glows are dual -coil, wellman, says he got them off ebay. Selling for $40 & has spares as well. He says the glows only have about 1000 miles on them.

Will these fit my truck & are they any good?

 

[Acesneights1]

I think you need the long. Been following along. Some advice if I may. I know you said you don't have the money right now for boost or pyro gauges but my advice ould be to drill and tap the ex manifold right below the turbo and drill and tap the intake. Both will be 1/8 NPT IIRC then just put brass plugs in the holes for now so someday when you go to do the gauges it will be a piece of cake. Very easy and safe to tap the manifolds while dissassembled. Good job. BTW dealing with rusty old bolts, my advice is to use SNAP ON 6 point. I have seen many times over the years where ugly bolts came out with a snap on socket that stripped by a craftsman club.

 

[turbovanman]

If the injectors come out, they should be reinstalled with fresh copper crush washers....I'm sure the shop is aware of this....

Don't use gaskets for the exhaust manifolds...

Why not?

I think you need the long. Been following along. Some advice if I may. I know you said you don't have the money right now for boost or pyro gauges but my advice ould be to drill and tap the ex manifold right below the turbo and drill and tap the intake. Both will be 1/8 NPT IIRC then just put brass plugs in the holes for now so someday when you go to do the gauges it will be a piece of cake. Very easy and safe to tap the manifolds while dissassembled. Good job. BTW dealing with rusty old bolts, my advice is to use SNAP ON 6 point. I have seen many times over the years where ugly bolts came out with a snap on socket that stripped by a craftsman club.

Great advice, :thumbsup:

 

[simone0414]

I totally agree with you about the gauges & I realize that there is no better time do it but I have never drilled & tapped anything before. I know its probably easy to do but I just hate trying things when I don't know what I am doing. Can't tell you how many times I have done that in the past & I ended up in a sh#% storm of problems. That's why I ask so many questions. My mechanic buddy is coming back to help me prepare the block so I may see if he will help me with that as well.