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Blowing coolant out the overflow tank. Head gasket or block??

Check on ebay from some of the places offering injectors. An installation set can be had for $20-$30 with the clampless lines

Leo
 
Don't be foolish. Put injectors in it while it is apart. You will be glad you did. You can certainly find injectors for less than a grand.
 
Don't need to install the gasket that goes between the turbo and the manifold...they are a machined finish.

I didn't look at the ebay link, but make sure to use a clampless install kit for the return lines.....
 
I bought 60G glows from Autozone for ten bucks each. They work great.

I've read this whole thread, and just wanted to chime in with my 2 cents' worth. I started out to change heads, but by the time I got near to getting the passenger side off, I decided it was just as easy to yank the engine. It was, and it was a good thing I did. I had suspicions about the bottom end because it was rather noisy.

I disassembled the engine, and the only thing I can figure is that it was defective from the AM General factory in 2003. All the bearings were toast (in an uneven pattern), and the block needed to be decked. I took it to a reputable shop and had them go over it after I took it apart. My heads also had those cracks between a couple of the valves, but they went all the way through, so I got new heads and the shop moved the valves and springs to it (engine didn't have that many miles on it).

When all was said and done, I reused the block (magnafluxed), crank (new main bolts), rods and bolts, pistons, camshaft, valves and valvetrain. The block was decked and align honed. I paid the shop some $300 to assemble the long block and mic everything as they went. They also balanced the reciprocating assembly. I installed a new Fluidampr and when all was said and done, I spent about $4,000. The engine now runs like a champ, so I figure it was money well spent. It runs much quieter now and it actually starts within less than a second of cranking time.

The only symptom I had that the heads were bad was pressure in the cooling system first thing in the morning. ...no real obvious water loss, no smell of coolant out the exhaust. I think maybe blown gaskets make much more muss and fuss than cracked heads.

Now I gotta figure out why my brake lights quit working.
 
Last edited:
mitchedo said:
Now I gotta figure out why my brake lights quit working.
Click to expand...

Probably the switch on the pedal. It's a MF to change. Just buy a new clip with the new switch and rip the oold one off. You'll never salvage the old clip. I have the bloody kunckles to prove it. Truck damn near met Mr. 980C that day.
 
How has the block deck surface checked out?

I've seen a couple 6.5's w/ failed headgaskets where a low spot on the block deck appeared to be a contributing factor. A straightedge showed the deck to be low where the gasket breech occured. The odd thing was the area showed the same depth cutting wheel grooves (from original machining) as the rest of the surface - as if that portion of the deck material had receded slightly (after the machining) during the new engine's first heat cycles. Who knows?

FYI - the thicker gasket offering is primarily an option to compensate for decking the block the 0.0010" to clean up the surface - as this lessens the combustion chamber volume & would raise compression if not for the thicker gasket.

Since the only significant combustion chamber volume in the head is in the prechambers, surfacing these heads (with essentially flat combustion chamber/valve surfaces) doesn't impact combustion chamber volume nearly as much as with typical chambers of gasser heads.
 
simone0414 said:
I ordered them from carquest. Not sure what brand. They said they was fast start. Why is WAP bad?
Click to expand...

WAP is very bad. Many people have had them burn out quickly and swell IIRC and were a MF to remove afterwards. I don't think there is that many threads here on them but the old site had many. I wouldn't use them.
 
Changing head gaskets is pretty straight forward on these critters.

The pix ar a bit too small to really diagnose much.

keep in mind that when you put it back together that the Pushrods hare directional

*** There is one ball that is copper colored (or at least will at least show traces of it)

This goes to the rockers, No exception. These are the hard ends, installing wrong will result in valve train failure.
 
If the heads had a crack that was going to cause coolant leakage, it cant be milled out.

The only way to check these heads to be certain that they are sound is to use a test plate and a rubber gasket that bolts to the machined side.
Next the heads is heated in a tank of hot water and then air pressure applied with a fitting to the coolant passage. (block off the front and rear upper passages)

Minimum of 50 PSI to the head with it in the tank of hot water. The valves and such need to be out and then any leaks will show real quick.

No other way will accurately test the head.

Be sure to look over the number 8 cylinder (rear on the RH side of the truck)

Look for discoloration in the upper area of the cylinder around 8 oclock while looking from the RH side of the engine.

These can and do crack on the late engines. The crack runs radially around the cyl about an inch below the deck.

These are fairly easy to spot as the leakage will cause a strange etching ion the cylinder.
Any cracks may also be easy to spot.

Cracks between the valves are normal and as long as they dont go to water then they are fine to use.

Cracks from a valve seat that go onto the firedeck are GAME OVER for the head.

Use the OS gaskets for block decking only.

Be sure there is not any serious deck errossion around the number1 and 2 cylinders where the fire ring sits.

Errossion here is common.

Keep us posted

best

MGW
 
It's been a few days, but... no one mentioned replacing the plastic rocker retainer buttons. May want to change those while you're at it.
 
I used the WAP's for two years and did not have one fail and they were not a problem to get out. The only reason I changed them was for their bad reputation and I had the engine out so it was a good time to do it. When I checked them afterwords they were all still good. BTW, the engine started great with them. Just my personal experience.
 
Also, when I put my engine back together I used intake, water crossover and headgaskets. As far as I can remember everything else is the super Black RTV. 17,000 miles and no leaks. In fact, I have a problem with stuff rusting on my engine.
 
Well I am back.:smile5: Took the Kids to Moncton NB. Went to Magic Mountain, Magnetic Hill Zoo, Crystal Palace. Everyone had a great time.

Anyway, have most of the parts now. The Glow plugs are AC delco 60gs. Pretty sure that's what you guys have been telling me to get. Headgaskets are Felpro & are the thicker ones. It says on the package that they are for year 92-98. I questioned the parts guy to make sure they will work on my 99 & he looked it up & said they will so I am hopeing he is right. New head bolts, upper gasket kit, new manifold studs.

Hate to bring this up again but should I use gaskets for the manifolds? Never got a clear answer on that before.

The only thing I don't have is the new injectors. I ordered them from ebay & forgot to have them air shipped so they would be here when I got back. So they won't be here until mid next week. CRRRRAAAAAPPPP!!! I guess I can put some of it back together & finish it when the injectors come in. I want to re design my veg so I can do that while I am waiting.

One question on the injector lines. How tight are they supposed to be. You can't put a socket on them so I am assuming there is no torque spec.
 
No gaskets on the exhaust manifolds....definately on the intake manifolds....

Injector lines need to be tight enough not to leak....
 
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