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Blowing coolant out the overflow tank. Head gasket or block??

chrisk1500 said:
No gaskets on the exhaust manifolds....definately on the intake manifolds....

Injector lines need to be tight enough not to leak....
Click to expand...

Yah I have gaskets for the intake manifolds. The exhaust was what I wasn't sure about.

I was hopeing for a more better way of knowing how much to tighten the injector lines.
 
Found the torque specs in the FAQ section. Have a question about them. I see there is three different numbers. First ,second & last numbers. Does this mean that you torque all bolts to the first torque spec, then all again to the next spec & then torque them all to the final spec?

Also I see there is a seqence pic for the heads & lower intake as well. It says it's for a 94. My 99 is the same though right? Does the upper intake have a sequence or do you just start in the middle & work your way out?
 
simone0414 said:
Found the torque specs in the FAQ section. Have a question about them. I see there is three different numbers. First ,second & last numbers. Does this mean that you torque all bolts to the first torque spec, then all again to the next spec & then torque them all to the final spec?
Click to expand...

Yes, Simone - once the head is in place, the bolts are in finger-tight, you follow the torque pattern three times: First, tighten the bolts to the first torque setting; second, tighten them further, to the second torque setting. Finally, go through the pattern again and tighten each bolt 1/4 of a turn more. (90 degrees). This, incidentally, is why you should always use new bolts.

Simone0414 said:
Also I see there is a seqence pic for the heads & lower intake as well. It says it's for a 94. My 99 is the same though right? Does the upper intake have a sequence or do you just start in the middle & work your way out?
Click to expand...

If you look at the patterns shown, they both start in the middle and work their way out, following a clockwise spiral. The only difference is the 4 'ears' on the intake manifold... you tighten each 'ear' inside-out, in a clockwise pattern. Yes, these patterns apply to your 99 as well... all multi-bolt parts that get deformed by torque application are tightened this way.
 
Bolting on the heads


Now here we have a nice little chart that shows the head bolt torqueing sequence.


Now a word to the wise.
The 1st stop is shown at 20 Lbs. BS, not gonna happen


Spin all the bolts in snug with a speed handle.


Now take them down in the sequence shown to 25 ftlbs.
At 25 they will hold there and not keep moving.


Now take the complete set through the sequence to 50 ft lbs.
Run through a second time to be sure they are all holding at 50 ftlbs.


Now go through the sequence and give each bolt 1/4 turn more.


This is a 90 degree turn on the bar. I like to mark each bolt head as I do them to make sure I dont miss one.


Now, the part they dont tell you.


Take your torque wrench and starting at number one (1) bolt pull the wrench up and see at what point the bolt will just start to move.


My experience shows this to be at or around 100 ft Lbs.


Go back through the sequence and check each bolt as you carefully ease it up to the 100 ftlb or so mark.


You will likely find that one or more bolts will fall short of the 100 ftlbs.
I have found the some of the first ones in the sequence will be a little light on the torque after the final 1/4 turn.. (75 ft lbs or so)


With the DaHooooley engine the RH head using the MLS gasket from Cometic displayed a whole different feel upon torqueing.


The last 1/4 turn was a BITCH and I really had to lay into the break bar to get it.


This tells me that the Felpro gaskets are compressing a lot and that last 1/4 turn is causing things to move a little more.


All the bolts felt real good at 50+ pounds but after the final 1/4 turn things did move some more.


Just a good thing to do that final check and be sure all the bolts are the same torque.


I have never been a fan of the TTY bolts. There are several companies that make regular bolts for the 6.2/6.5.


Also there are stud kits available too.


Main issue is to be sure your bolts are all even.


one bolt that does not come up to par can cause issues.
This can be a leaky gasket down the road many miles or also an area of the block that is not under the same stress levels.


I have always just used the chart and done the 1/4 turn thing, Hmmmm seems that the tried and true stuff from the General is not perfect

This is the way I do it. No big flap just straight forward, boom plop done
Hope this helps.


Missy
 

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  • Head torque chart.JPG
    Head torque chart.JPG
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Thanks Missy. Very helpful.

I spent a few hours yesterday cleaning the old gaskets off everything & shinning all gasket surfaces up. Valve covers took a loooong time. Put new t-stats in & glow plugs. Injectors will be here tomorow & I have found a proper injector socket. Not sure if the return lines are clampless. Hope so. Any tips for changing injectors? My buddy is coming after work tommorow to help me finish cleaning up the block.

Slowly but surely.
 
Well my buddy was supposed to come down tonight to help me clean up the block. He was a no show. Something must have come up. Anyway looking like I may have to do that myself. Looking for tips on how to do this? He has already cleaned it up quite a bit with an air powered soft bristle brush thingy but he said it needed a bit more. I beleive he mentioned using brake cleaner as well. Wondering what you guys do?

Also I would really like to check & make sure the block isn't warped/damaged. My buddy was going to use a straight edge. Any tips on how to check it properly? Some posts in this thread discuss this that are helpful. Just wanted to get as much info as I could on this.
 
put a stiaght edge on the block end to end and look for area that don't mate up. He was using an air gasket whizzer. I have one they work great. Can buy them at home depot for a few dollars and then get the wheel and disks at any auto parts store. Just becareful where and how agressive your disks are. Don't want to use an agressive disk on aluminum intake.
 
Ok. New injectors came today. Return lines are clampless:smile5: Haven't been able to track down a socket that will work yet. My Dad has one that is the right size but isn't a deep socket & won't work. So I took the old ones out with a adjustable wrench. I can put the new ones back in with the wrench but how important is it to have them torqued properly? If its real important then I will find a socket somewhere.
 
Didn't notice the torque specs on the small gaskets for the covers in the back of the heads that the glow plug controller bolts to. Is that the same spec as the lower intake?
 
My buddy is here tonight & is going to run a tap throught the block for the bolts. We are not sure what size to use. He is pretty sure but doesn't want to take a chance. Anyone know what the head bolt thread size is?
 
Ok. Got drivers head back on & torqued down. Push rods are in & rocker arms are on. Is the torque spec for the rocker arms the shaft bolts? Thats what it looks like it is called in the torque spec section. 40 foot pounds right.
 
Well had a little setback.I dropped one of the washer clip things that go on the bolts for the rocker arms. I am pretty sure it went into the exhaust manifold. YAY!!!:mad2: Anyway got the manifold off & it is not there so I am going to take the crossover off & hopefully it will be there. Does the crossover require gaskets or is it a machine to fit?
 
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