Block heater question

[jrsavoie]

You can test them without removing them with a continuity tester. If you have a multi tester with a buzzer, the buzzer should be buzzing. Disconnect the wire going to the glow plug, Put one probe on the spade connector on the glow plug and the other test lead goes to ground. You should read a max of .02 Ohms or something like that.

Sometimes I will hook up 2 testers and test for continuity from the glow plug controller to each glow plug connector as long as I am there. Doesn't matter if the glow plugs are good if they are not getting juiced.

 

[Nosferatu49534]

Ok. I'll add this to my list of projects. [emoji52]

 

[SmithvilleD]

Yep, good to evaluate wiring loom as the ends by exh manifold live in a harsh environment.

 

[JayTheCPA]

Jay what's the black box in your cord tree? Timer?

Yes, that is a timer.

Wiring is outlet, timer, thermostat, extension cord.

Logic to it all is that I only want to start heating a couple hours prior to when I usually leave, but not heat if the air is already at 50* F. Goal is to have the block up to at least 50* F on a cold start.

My head lights do dim after the truck starts with the after glow...

Fair point. Yes the Burb's headlights also dim during the after-glow (am not noticing it in the dash), but the AIH actually makes the DI rig's lights brown (did it from the day it was new).

 

[jrsavoie]

From what I see the in and out is built in to the plug with wires running to the thermostat and then back to the female plug.

I was looking for these in the last year or so to run various heaters and AC units. The price looks good.

Maybe time to check the glow plugs?




Ambient and keep it in an adjacent car port so that (for grins) it stays out of the elements.

 

[JayTheCPA]

From what I see the in and out is built in to the plug with wires running to the thermostat and then back to the female plug.

From what I can tell, the thermostat opens / closes the hot wire (just like a light switch).

I was looking for these in the last year or so to run various heaters and AC units.

The K-Kontrol will do either. It comes in 'Heater' mode and includes instructions on how to re-wire it for A/C mode.

The K-Kontrol is a nice supplement for analog style space heaters / air conditioners as it has a tighter temperature range. Just set the heater / A/C on its max setting and let the K-Kontrol take over.

Another nice aspect of the K-Kontrol when using it for space heaters inside the house is that you can hang it at the elevation where you want the temperature control. Example, place it at bed level in a remote bedroom and it will keep the bed at the set temperature and let the floor stay cold(er). Similar for a window A/C.

 

[Nosferatu49534]

I replaced the glow plugs on the passenger side tonight. Hopefully it will start easier in the morning. Its been rough the last couple days. I'm pretty sure they weren't performing properly, (see pics).

I replaced all the plug ends with new connectors and used marine grade adhesive lined heat shrink on each one.

Also put a healthy amount of antiseize on each gp as well.

 

[Nosferatu49534]

Is there a way I can test the block heater? The reason I ask is, I was curious on the amount of temp difference from cold, to about 2 hrs after it being plugged in. I'm in and out of my where house with my van at work during the day so when I got back about 2pm this after noon I up my scanner and to check what the temp sensor was reading and it said 41 deg. Plugged the truck in, left for a job came back 2 hrs later and before I went to start the truck to earn up checked the scanner again and it was down to 37 deg. Now I'm not sure how accurate that will be but only thought I had for checking.

 

[79jasper]

Yeah, you can use a ohmeter. But from what you said, it's definitely bad. Or the cord is bad.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[Will L.]

Some block heater cords unplug from the heater "freeze plug" itself. I know mine does. A point of corrosion also- and judging by you glow plugs..

Slide under the truck and see if you're can unplug and if so clean up those contacts really well. The u it could be ok and not carrying the electricity through. If it's a one piece then time for a new one.

I can't remember how bad it is to swap out- I've only done one or two - many moons ago. If it's way bad maybe oil pan pad heater?

 

[jrsavoie]

You can unplug your cord and test it for continuity before you go whole hog on changing the block heater

Make sure your cord didn't come unplugged from the block. I've seen that several times. It's a quick easy fix though

I also slather the spade connectors with Kopr Kote when I do glow plugs

 

[Nosferatu49534]

Well I feel silly, never thought to check if the cord was still attached to the heater. And I now have another project. 

Some block heater cords unplug from the heater "freeze plug" itself. I know mine does. A point of corrosion also- and judging by you glow plugs..
If it's way bad maybe oil pan pad heater?

Oh yeah my plugs were crusty. I think this summer I'm gonna look into racedays glow plug harness.

You can unplug your cord and test it for continuity before you go whole hog on changing the block heater.

How would I go about this? Electrical and I have only recently started going to the same church, so I'm still not sure on a lot of it.

Thanks for all the replys guys. Sure helps a lot. [emoji3]

 

[JayTheCPA]

Is there a way I can test the block heater?

If you have a power reading tool (like a kill-a-watt), the heating element should read (or close) to 600W. Significantly less than that and the element is failing. Naturally this presumes that the element is getting electricity (as Will and others commented).

Another quickie test for the element's health is to plug it into a GFCI outlet. If the outlet trips, it is time to plan for the element's replacement as current is leaking current rather than passing cleanly through the element.

You can unplug your cord and test it for continuity before you go whole hog on changing the block heater

How would I go about this?

Pull the cord from the heating element, short the female ends and then use the ohm meter across the two male leads at the front of the truck.

Consider also checking the extension cord just for grins.

 

[jrsavoie]

How would I go about this? Electrical and I have only recently started going to the same church, so I'm still not sure on a lot of it.

Thanks for all the replys guys. Sure helps a lot. [emoji3]

You need to pick up a multimeter if you do not have one. It doesn't have to be expensive. The multi-meters I use most are the cheapos - under $10 that I try to stash everywhere and try to carry one in each vehicle.

Set the electrical tester / multi-meter on Ohms / continuity / buzzer / horn and test as Jay suggested or test each wire individually. Put one lead on a male and test each female that would go to the block. Repeat on the other connectors.

I find an alligator clamp kit for the tester to be quite handy. That way you can clip one end and leaves your hands free to use a probe on the other end of whatever you are testing.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Pretty common for a good block heater to trip a gfci. Another common fail point is where the cord goes into the plug.

 

[Nosferatu49534]

Ok. Can do. I have a descent meter so I'll check that this evening. I think at one point my dad did have an alligator clip set.

 

[Nosferatu49534]

I'm guessing this could be part of the problem. I ordered a new one last night. The contacts on the element are kind of corroded also. Is there any thing that would clean them off easily?

 

[JayTheCPA]

The contacts on the element are kind of corroded also. Is there any thing that would clean them off easily?

Yes, but why dork with it? Given all the insulation splits and corrosion, personally I would just wait for the replacement to arrive rather than band-aid that one.

But if you *absolutely* must put the current cord back on, I'd hit it with some vinegar to eat the corrosion, rinse it well to take all the vinegar out, and rough the sockets with a flat-head screw driver. Again, not my first choice though.

 

[Nosferatu49534]

Not to clean the cord I meant the element contacts. Would the vinegar work if I spray it on the element?

 

[Nosferatu49534]

Also can I put dielectric grease or something similar on the element and to help prevent corrosion?