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Banks sidewinder exhaust manifold group buy.

More progress.

I found a US GEAR overdrive unit for a deal that I couldn't pass up. Got it installed yesterday and the main wire harness, but there is still the matter of getting the VSSB installed. It came to me in a mess of wires.
Anyone have a clue how these are hooked up?
I know you keep the original inplace. The one that came with it apparently only operated in OD. I cant figue out how it installs and how does speedo know witch one to read?DSCF2095.JPG DSCF2096.JPG DSCF2099.JPG DSCF2103.JPG DSCF2104.JPG DSCF2107.JPG DSCF2109.JPG DSCF2110.JPG
 
Seems like the common observations of buying a used Dual Range / DNE2 is that the PO's send a bundle of wires, no instructions, and the new owner gets to sort it all out . . . After that, seems like the new owners are happy campers.

IIRC the Dual Range unit has a speedo sending unit, but do not remember whether it is for an electric or cable driven speedo. If it is cable driven, do recall at least one vendor that sells a cable-to-electric converter and from there it is a matter of whether the VSSB needs an adjustment.

If the Dual Range is still easily accessible, consider replacing the drive motor as that is the common failure point that I read about.
 
This pic shows the speed sensor, its electronic.

dscf2095-jpg.44983
 
I kinda looked over it and the link shows a cable speedo doesn't it.

I don't know but will stab at it and might spur a thought or comment.

I don't know what all the vssb does? Does the ECM reference it for power train control? I would think the speedo just needs to know how fast the driveshaft is turning. The speedo would not care about auxiliary input speed but PCM program might???? Is that why you have to hook up original???
 
Perhaps I am missing something . . . Seeing as the Dual Range's output is for an electronic sending unit, all the VSSB needs to know is the final drive ratio. Given the differential ratio is not changing, suspect that the VSSB is good to go and will send the correct value to the speedo whether in 'direct' or 'over' as the Dual Range is likely taking measurements from the output shaft. Naturally, am open to correction.

Only thing I have yet to figure out regarding the VSSB is why the speedo displays one value when the ECM sees the correct speed (as compared against GPS). Noticed a couple others recently comment on the difference. But this is a different topic . . .
 
Studying it a little more the VSSB has mutipul signal outputs. One go's to speedo, we'll disable that one on original VSSB and continue to let other signals run. Then with second VSSB run a dedicated signal from US gear to it and from it to speedo.
Thats similar to what Jay said, but we need two VSSB's.
 
Nice indeed I see it's a gear splitter too and the side cover can be replaced with cooler or setup for remote cooling.
 
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Hadn't heard of that. Can you enlighten me with info or a link.

There maybe a external cooler that fits where the 8 bolt cover is or you maybe can fab one by tapping the existing one running coolant lines, pump aux cooler w/fan kind of like a differential cooling setup generally any aux OD/UD gets real hot for lack of cooling either cooling mods or change the aux OD oil frequently.
 
Burning oil: I suggest this as manual transmission cooling has proven to increase longevity and that US Gear unit I think holds only 1 qt of lube so increasing it's lube capacity and cooling would help IMHO.
 
Yes.
Original will signal TCM, Radio and one other thing I'm forgeting.
USG VSSB will signal speedo only.


Cool.

Wondered where the radio got it speed signal, and now I know :)


Regarding the extra fluid and cooling, I'd check to see if this generation of Dual Range was rated for synthetic. If so, cooling is less of a need as synthetic fluid has pretty good heat tolerance.
 
Install manual says 80-90W conventional or synthetic. I'll run some conventional a few mile to flush it out & test everything then change fluid to synthetic.
Going to pick up drive shaft in a few.
Have you guys ever used the Moog U joint that has the grease zerk in the cap instead of the U joint body? I'm going to give them a try I think (either them or a solid body type)
 
My old Dodge had the grease jerks in the cap, I don't know why they all don't.

The new crosses I put in my front shaft can't be greased without removal.
 
Leroy, as far as the u-joint, IDK what Moog wants cost wise, but all I buy is AC Delco Professional greaseables off Rock Auto. Made in USA and seem to be good units.
 
I have em coming. Will let ya'll know how they work out. Also have a Timken carrier bearing coming. I got the 1.57"
 
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