• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Banks sidewinder exhaust manifold group buy.

I don't think anyone cares If you want to make tubing beads in high heels. ;) I don't charge extra, how would I even know unless you tell me.
 
Today was the big day! Got her fired up. The mic really picks up the sound!, to me its not as loud as it seems in the video. The engine was rock steady.
Now that Ive had a chance to see the vid myself Im surprised at how little smoke there was at start up. I saw a small leak so didnt let it run long. Tomorrow I fix the leak and take her for a spin.

 
Awesome, just one question are you going to have oil return issues w/centrifuge draining back into valve cover with crankcase pressure, or will the oil draining back overcome the the crankcase pressure?
 
FellowTraveler said:
Awesome, just one question are you going to have oil return issues w/centrifuge draining back into valve cover with crankcase pressure, or will the oil draining back overcome the the crankcase pressure?
Click to expand...
Should not be a problem, The factory drain would have the same issue too, if there was one.

schiker said:
Congrats! Looking forward to hearing about how it drives and feels.
Click to expand...

Thank you. Its raining today, so I'll have to get out between storms to find the small leak before I can drive it. Good news is I can get interior back together even if its raining.

One thing I noticed is how fast the thing turns over while cranking. I made some 1ga bat cables for it, not sure if thats doing the trick?
 
Burning oil said:
Should not be a problem, The factory drain would have the same issue too, if there was one.



Thank you. Its raining today, so I'll have to get out between storms to find the small leak before I can drive it. Good news is I can get interior back together even if its raining.

One thing I noticed is how fast the thing turns over while cranking. I made some 1ga bat cables for it, not sure if thats doing the trick?
Click to expand...
I made 1/0 cables for mine and it cranks a lot faster than before, though like you, I also changed the engine so I can't say with 100% certainty that it's all cables....
 
n8in8or said:
I made 1/0 cables for mine and it cranks a lot faster than before, though like you, I also changed the engine so I can't say with 100% certainty that it's all cables....
Click to expand...

IMHO any increase in positive cable diameter/gauge should be complemented extra negative straps from chassis, body & that 6.5td.
 
FellowTraveler said:
IMHO any increase in positive cable diameter/gauge should be complemented extra negative straps from chassis, body & that 6.5td.
Click to expand...
Doing so reduces the chance of lots of other problems that may rear their ugly heads at some point. Using a torch to fill void in crimp on cable ends with solder is another important step to eliminated corrosion in there.
 
FellowTraveler said:
Doing so reduces the chance of lots of other problems that may rear their ugly heads at some point. Using a torch to fill void in crimp on cable ends with solder is another important step to eliminated corrosion in there.
Click to expand...
Good point. I sealed mine with heat shrink tubing, but solder would have been a more secure seal.
 
Agreed, I have 1ga grounds from batterys to engine, and 4ga from engine to cab and engine to frame. It is DB2 so not as critical. But this is the fastest RPM on cranking Ive ever had on a 6.5.
 
Looks and sounds great Leroy! Did I miss where you relocated the coolant expansion tank? I think I see the filler in the front where the battery used to be, but can't see for sure what's going on up there.
 
Well, i'm still trying to figure out what to do about that. I'm running the Evans coolant so thought for some reason I could go without an expansion tank...NO Evans still expands :wideyed:.
I had a remote filler neck that you saw, but coolant is coming out.
Part of my problem is the height of the neck is borderline low, i'd like to raise it.
I had an old generic overflow tank I got when I did the Isuzu swap in the Suburban that's not being used. I bolted it up to the firewall today (it bolted up perfectly using two existing bolts). I'm thinking of eliminating the remote filler neck and using the bottle as the filler. Should work better I think. I'll get a picture of it soon. What say you guys?
 
Since you're running the Evans and don't need to pressurize the system it seems like your new overflow setup is a good idea.

I like your new battery location, nice and tidy. I want to keep my factory overflow so I'm going to keep improving my current battery location. I've thought about fitting both batteries in the front driver location, but that was before I did my remove FMU, so I'm not sure there would be room up there for that anymore.
 
Should be ok on the overflow bottle, but I just remembered my A/C hose needs that space, so I'll have to find another location for it.

Good idea on heat shield for battery.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top