• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

94 2500 6.5 turbo won't start

If you read a lil further back he said the previous owner used either to start it fairly often.
My bad, its a 1/4 inch line not a 1/3 inch line I meant to say which is gonna cost at most a cpl bucks. again it will demonstate if the IP is at least pushing any fuel through
I agree about the GP's its easier to do them through the wheel (#8 sometimes from the bottem) to change them. That said I would use a piece of wire several feet long to connect on the end of each wire (unless you can somehow get it to connect to the main harness connector) and run it to the cab to see if there is any power running to the Gp's. A common problem especially on the turbo side was the wires became brittle and break as they run so close to the maniflolds. Another good reason to take the wheel well off to allow for easier inspection. Always start with the Gp closest to the tranny as sometimes there will be only one or two lines to feed all gp's on the same side.
I do like the idea of someone extra here to hold and get the beer, dont foregt to have the Mrs handy as well to be able to run and get beer as needed
 
Crankme69 said:
For grips sakes, if money is tight, before you BUY anything else, crank the dam thing & have someone give it a light mist of either to see what the hell ya got...

Good Lord I don't like using either anymore then anyone else but this guy needs to know WTF he's got here before we spend him out of every cent he's got.
Click to expand...

I did try very little ether before I put the plugs in (didn't want to fry the new ones) and it did try to go. I'm starting to think it's a fuel issue but I need to finish the other 4 plugs before I condemn the IP or injectors. I'm working alone outside so it's taking way too long to get it done.
 
If it ran good til you shut it off, I would think your IP and/or injectors would be good enough to start it again.

I wouldn't try ether. It'll take out glow plugs quickly with the possibility for greater damage.

After you get help and /or better conditions and have all the glow plugs changed

Disconnect a glow plug and test from the wire to ground while the controller is activated.

This is easiest to do while changing the glow plugs as you have each wire off and are there anyway.

If you test each wire at the spade connector you eliminate the possibility of a broken wire or bad connection anywhere in between.

Make sure you block the truck up while going through the wheel well.
 
Keep us updated. Don't worry about anything else til the glow plugs are either changed or tested or both.

Then something will be eliminated.

How exactly did you go about testing the lift pump?

Did you test for glow plug voltage at all?
 
Last edited:
Okay, I am a fan of trying to test things without spending any money. I hate buying parts to find out the old one worked and the new one really isnt needed but now that I have installed it I cant return it.

The truck isnt drivable, so taking the inner wheel fenders off is not really a big deal (odds are its gonna only help make your life easier in the long run)
Being a diesel, you know its a fuel issue; either its not getting any, the fuel is to cold
So where to start.......
First off, I would check and see if I had voltage to the plugs... while there take a quick gander at the wires to see if they are starting to harden or the sheeting was breaking off. No voltage work your way back. Voltage is good....step two
Next thing is to see if I have fuel to the filter (Lift Pump). On my 94 K3500 I can crack the filter open a bit and see the fuel spurt out when I turn the key/ jump the lift pump.
So now I know I fuel to the lift pump and votage to the glow plugs. So its time to see if the IP is supplying to the cylinder. I find that is easiest to disconnect a couple of random lines (one at a time). To do so I will use a piece of rubber fuel line (I perfer clear but black will do as well) a few feet long that empties in a bucket (unless I am in the driveway and wanna clean some oil I spilled off the asphalt..lol). Clear line works best because not only do you get to see if you are getting fuel to the actual cylinder but you get to also see if there is any air getting in the fuel line too.
Now on my K3500 I can leave the ign on for a few mins without the truck running and my fuel filter will get rather warm. This tells me my pre-heat works.
So everything has tested out so far whats left to do. I would take my emergency PMD and connect that, you just never know. The glow plugs are pretty much the only thing left to test and they themself arent that easy to actually test without taking one out and trying, or just replacing it. In your case seing that either was as common as the wife yelling at me good chance they are toast. Again one good thing about having a preheat in the filter can is that even if the plugs arent working if you leave the ign on long enough you should be able to still start up.

and yes I do have a can of either in my truck for emergencies only, what can I say I am from Alberta orginally.
 
psycobilly64 said:
I did try very little ether before I put the plugs in (didn't want to fry the new ones) and it did try to go. I'm starting to think it's a fuel issue but I need to finish the other 4 plugs before I condemn the IP or injectors. I'm working alone outside so it's taking way too long to get it done.
Click to expand...

Before I changed my plug's I plugged the old girl in and she still wouldn't start so I tried a little short squirt of starting juice and she fired right up but it was like 70 degree's when I did this.

Mark
 
I dont know if all of them or at least the 2500's preheat the fuel can as mine does. Its not exactly ideal but leaving the ign on for 5-10 mins on my truck and you can barely touch the fuel filter canister. This I am sure helps withthe starting process especially well in cold weather
 
jrsavoie said:
Keep us updated. Don't worry about anything else til the glow plugs are either chaged or tested or both.

Then something will be eliminated.

How exactly did you go about testing the lift pump?

Did you test for glow plug voltage at all?
Click to expand...

I opened the Fuel filter bleeder and had my brother crank it to bleed the air out. It had plenty of pressure at the filter, not so much at the t-valve.
The glow plugs have a full 12 volts and are working.
 
Fireman469 said:
I dont know if all of them or at least the 2500's preheat the fuel can as mine does. Its not exactly ideal but leaving the ign on for 5-10 mins on my truck and you can barely touch the fuel filter canister. This I am sure helps with the starting process especially well in cold weather
Click to expand...

I'll try that and see what happens.
 
If your plugs are working and you have pressure at the fuel filter then it is between the fuel filter and the engine.

Whats the temp like where you are? How much fuel do you have in your tank? Have you tested the fuel for water?
 
Fireman469 said:
If your plugs are working and you have pressure at the fuel filter then it is between the fuel filter and the engine.

Whats the temp like where you are? How much fuel do you have in your tank? Have you tested the fuel for water?
Click to expand...

Right now it's about 50 degrees
It has about 3/8 off a tank
How would I check the fuel for water?
I am starting to wonder if the lift pump is just weak. It looks like it's original to the truck so I may have to change it just to be sure.
 
Take some fuel from the T drain and put it in a clear jar, leave it over night and see if there are any water drops at the bottom.

You have fuel to the filter so it's working, a pressure gauge on the drain will tell you if the LP is strong or weak.
 
NVW for an Albertan you actually know something...lol

ALLLTHOUGH that said most 94's didnt have a strainer or anti-theft in the fuel filler. If you are on good terms with the local gas station or maybe you can get some at the local auto store you can try to get some water paste. Its used usually to test for water in the underground fuel tanks but you can put it on a stiff wire (like coat hanger) and slide it in the fuel tank. If it comes out a different color you have water.

Have you tested for air in the fuel system? Take a look in the valley under the intake manifold and see if its wet there at all. The line between the IP and filter could be leaking

Also when did you last drive it? Did it stall at all?
 
I last drove it the day before thanksgiving. That's the last time it has run for me and it didn't stall or hesitate at all. It idled smooth and had plenty of power at speed. In fact it ran better than my last truck (a 92 F150 gasser). The only thing I noticed wrong was the fuel gauge fluctuated quite a bit and the check engine light was on. I checked the codes and and only got a 12 (no codes present).
The intake valley is dry but there is next to no pressure at the drain.
Could the IP pull fuel up past the LP if it's bad or weak? I did notice I only got fuel to the t-valve when the engine is turning over good. When the batts were weak I got no fuel to the valve.
 
Psycho
Reread this whole thread thoroughly. There seems to be quite a bit you have missed.
Do you have all the glow plugs changed now? or did you check each of the remaining glow plugs for continuity?

Did you check your old glow plugs to see if they were actually bad?

Did you check for voltage at each of the glow plug connectors?

Rather than try to kill your starter it would be better to hotwire the lift pump and let it run for a period of time.

Run about a quart of fuel out of the drain into a clean jar. Let it sit for 20 minutes or so anf judge the fuel quality. See if there is any water in the bottom of the jug.
I use a gallon pickle jar.

How did you bleed the fuel filter?

Does your fuel filter bleeder work or does it just leak fuel all over the top of the filter like the Baldwins do with the new plastic topped filters? -the bleeders on thos filters do not work. No fuel comes out the bleeder.

If you got one of the old style filters you can run a clear hose off the bleeder into a container. Crack the bleeder til you no longer see air bubbles. Now your filter is primed.

If you just crack the bleeder til you see some fuel you can still have some air and consequently still have hard starting issues resulting from that.

If you leave the pump run for a period of time you may notice a fuel leak which would also allow air into the lines which would also cause hard start issues.
 
Follow the earlier suggestions. The lift pump probably only runs on your truck when the key is in the start position.
Hot wire the pump and note the flow from the drain.
Do a search here and find out how much fuel should be pumping in a given amout of time.
That will tell you if the lift pump is up to par.
By your lack of information shared I still can't tell exactly where you are in the glow plug saga.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top