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94 2500 6.5 turbo won't start

Happy to help.

optical sensor is on top of the Injection Pump next to the fuel inlet. This view is from the passenger side back towards the left front of the truck.
Optical Sensor Noise Filter harness.jpg​

yet another picture

DSC02471.jpg

chip/damaged in shipment from another owner....repaired with thanks to DieselPro for the great sourcing of parts
 
Paveltolz said:
optical sensor is on top of the Injection Pump next to the fuel inlet.
This view is from the passenger side back towards the left front of the truck.
Click to expand...

Thanks I'll try that tomorrow.
One more thing=
When I bled the fuel system I noticed the fuel didn't smell quite right. Not like stale gasoline, but not like fresh diesel either. It looked okay, maybe a little yellow, but I have worked on OTR trucks and I'm used to the smell-this was different. I'm wondering if old fuel would cause all this?
__________________
 
It may take more cranking to get the air out of the Injection pump. I'd try it at least 10 more times.

I'd also try a little Marvel Mystery Oil, Wd40, Sea foam, Deep Creep or similar squirted in the air intake. You can take the air filter elbow loose.

I'd keep the lift pump hot wired while trying to start, the battery charger on and the truck plugged in. Do you have a 3 way or something to put in the end of your extension cord so you can have the truck plugged in and the battery charger?

I also forgot to mention previously that it doesn't hurt to have the block heater plugged in while working on it - such as when you changed the glow plugs. It seems to help to have the block warmed when working in the cold.

How much fuel is in the truck?
It wouldn't hurt to add 5 gallons of fresh diesel with enough additive to treat that and whats in the tank.
I usa Lucas, Marvel, White Power Service or Sea Foam

Power Service would probably be my first choice as you don't know if that's summer fuel in the tank.
 
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I do not think that having the block heater plugged in while cranking is going to be a difference since the metal and oil are already warmed up, you can unplug it to plug something else in. However, I am not a fan of those high amp starting charger things. IMO they can nuke your glow system but I think the same thing of repeated normal jumpings as well. Its a 12V system that if run at 14V was only supposed to be for 1 second or less at a time during afterglow. And those chargers plugged into a wall might be outputting more than 14V. The glow system was supposed to pull voltage down to 10.5-11 volts but when you got this new supply of juice at possibly 18V it wont. The new self regulating glows are probably less sensitive, but the controller contacts can still be damaged.

I wouldnt mind having the charger feature on while cranking though, at like 6amps or whatever.

If there was gas in you fuel the IP may have croaked. It sounds like you have no fuel to the injectors. Ether and other stuff like that can damage injectors too. So you might be thinking about a set of them in the near future if you can get it to start. After pulling the OS connector off, you might try to locate a spare PMD, online you can purcahse new for under $200, but you'll want a harness extension and heatsink as well. The PMD is a necessary expense regardless if you drive the truck.

If it was a farm truck I would expect you would find some off road dyed diesel.
 
At these temps outside, I wouldn't leave the block heater unplugged for long. It'll cool down fast especially if you forget to plug it back in. So if you have access to a 2-way 3 way or another cord it would be easier to just leave it.

I agree on the battery charger. When working with questionable batteries I ussually just leave it on 10 amps and it usually keeps up between starting tries.
I also don't think it's a good idea to put it on 50 amp and let it rip.
 
I have been a diesel tech for many years, but have similiar problems with my 1993. I pulled out the crankcase ventilation tube from the air breather, and put two drops of gasoline before the turbo, this lets it fire right up. Mine starts good cold, but won't start hot, that's why I use gas, or I can roll it off a hill.
 
IP and injectors from a 1996 will be the same. Any used injectors may not be good though. 1994 had a High Output IP option available on HD and 1 ton trucks, but your "S" 3/4 ton should not have one.
 
psycobilly64 said:
When I bled the fuel system I noticed the fuel didn't smell quite right. Not like stale gasoline, but not like fresh diesel either. It looked okay, maybe a little yellow, but I have worked on OTR trucks and I'm used to the smell-this was different. I'm wondering if old fuel would cause all this?
Click to expand...

Psycobilly sent me this photo of what his fuel looks like.:???:
JR Fuel Sample-is it diesel.jpg
I've never seen diesel this color but "Last time I saw a urine sample like this, they shot the horse.":D
 
Im no expert but I would think that mixing red dyed fuel would tend to leave a red tint rather than turning the batch yellow. Then there is the odor he was talking about, red dye is still diesel....
 
Ok, thanks for the education. I hope it helps him though which is why I posted it up. Still, there's the odor and while he's new to the 6.5, he's no novice to the smell of diesel fuel.
 
Could be a mixture of Kerosene, Biodiesel, additives or whatever. The diesel here is the same color.
Throw a little on a fire and see how it burns. I'm sure it's fine he was running good on it previously.
 
I think it may be the PMD. It's in the stock location and it seems these are a major issue with these motors. I'll see if I can get a used relocation kit off ebay. From what ya'll have told me and the stickies I've read, I think that may be the problem. I was going to follow the advice and relocate it anyway, so I guess now's as good a time as any. Any advice on what brands or types I should avoid? The one I'm looking at has an anodized blue alum. heatsink, 6' pigtail and includes a tested good used PMD.
 
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