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94 2500 6.5 turbo won't start

I tried a good PMD today and still nothing. I also had the LP hot wired with my brother misting in wd40 and this time it didn't even act like it wanted to go. It wasn't even firing on the oil. I'm concerned the IP may be shot since even with a known good PMD I still have no fuel to the injectors. I'm going to try pulling the plunger out of the FSS tomorrow, and if that don't help then I'll know the IP's done.
The only other possibilty is it's sheared off the cam gear key. I don't think it's likely, but I've seen stranger things.
 
I also learned something new from my mother recently. Apparently, when I was taking the kid for a ride in the el camino I traded for the truck, it had died while it was idling. The kid's friend restarted it right away, but she said it was like he just shut it off.
Of course she waits till now to tell me instead of as soon as I got back (or started having trouble)!
 
Good PMD ??? where did you get it a spare "used but good one" ??? could still be that, ALL GNDS cleaned/checked ? Did you load test batts ??? are you sustaining full voltage to PCM while cranking? I fixed Mangus 580s no start truck the other day over the phone by having him get new batts, his bad one was pulling down volts of other one and read good with meter but failed the load check, new bats and he's back up & running like new. ALL 6.5ers need a load cell tester saves a LOT of diagnostic frustration
 
Turbine Doc said:
Good PMD ??? where did you get it a spare "used but good one" ??? could still be that, ALL GNDS cleaned/checked ? Did you load test batts ??? are you sustaining full voltage to PCM while cranking? I fixed Mangus 580s no start truck the other day over the phone by having him get new batts, his bad one was pulling down volts of other one and read good with meter but failed the load check, new bats and he's back up & running like new. ALL 6.5ers need a load cell tester saves a LOT of diagnostic frustration
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The PMD was loaned to me from another 6.5er. It's his good backup that he had used prior to changing his IP. All the grounds seem to check out fine. It seems the main issue I have is I'm getting no fuel to the injectors. As for the batts, I had them load tested the first time I had them charged. The motor is turning over at about 150-200 rpm when they are fully charged. I've also been using my charger to give them a leg up. It could be electrical, but with it running fine before I'm not so sure.
I know I'm missing SOMETHING.
I just don't know what or even where to look for it since I've run all the tests and come up empty.
If anyone has any advice and would like to call, send me a PM and I will send my # back asap.
 
If you tested another PMD then you got the harness off of yours. You can try what is brought up in post #136 now. To read if the fuel inject signal is making it to the fuel solenoid in the IP. IPs are common failure/maintenance items, so that could be it.
 
x2 new batts may be the cure for this problem. get them and try them if it works awsome if that aint it then take them back, get them at walmart keep them clean and looking like you never put them in.:thumbsup: iv done it before a set of batteries from walmart will cost you about $180
 
psycobilly64 said:
The motor is turning over at about 150-200 rpm when they are fully charged.
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WarWagon said:
Can you determine cranking speed? (I have a hand held optical tach that can.) You need 100 RPM cold min. A starter draw test can be done as well by a good starter shop with starter on the truck.
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psycobilly64 said:
It wasn't even firing on the oil. I'm concerned the IP may be shot since even with a known good PMD I still have no fuel to the injectors.
Click to expand...

Now I'm curious even more curious. Since his batteries are spinning the motor at what appears to be a speed sufficient for ignition, how do new batteries address his no fuel to the injectors issue? I feel his frustration based on an issue I had a couple of years back that had me and many of you chasing around for a while.
 
Have you checked the ecm fuse? Clean the spades up as sometime there is a bad connection.
 
At this point you should be wondering why it wasn't popping or smoking at all when they were misting fuel through the filter elbow.

Often they will run just a bit when misted with fuel til they run out. If you keep squirting they will keep running.

If you don't get smoke or fire misting fuel you won't get anything with a known working fuel system.

You need to fix what is known wrong before you chase your tail to far. He knows one battery did not pass the load test. Change one for sure as he's short on cash. Better scenario would be to borrow 2 known good batteries to try.
 
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I spoke with him last night and he said it was as if it were attempting to light but not like it was willing to start. Not sure what that means unless misting WD-40, 2 Stroke, or even Either isn't enough to kick it over w/o fuel.

I'm too far away to loan batteries though. Dang it.

NVW said:
Have you checked the ecm fuse? Clean the spades up as sometime there is a bad connection.
Click to expand...
That's an idea that occoured to me a few minutes ago too. The truck was running having been started on Ether but it was running. Suddenly it stops running and nothing 'normal' solves the no start AND no fuel to the injectors. Sudden kills of that sort on other systems would make a fuse suspect immediately; lights, brake lights, radio etc. I know the IP seems suspect but for it to die, BANG, all of a sudden just doesn't seem plausible so electrical / signal is still suspect. What else might show up toast if that ECM fuse is blown?

Unless the used PMD is suspect which, if IT is, he can shoot it back to me and I'll see if it fires my truck (Ain't Skeered). Anyone got a line on an IP being sold off a stripper truck? The one I got on the shelf is very suspect or I'd offer it up just out of idle curiosity.
 
When we tried the wd40 last time it didn't even act like it was trying. The ether worked a lot better, but I really don't want to fry the new GPs.
I tried to pull the FSS plunger today, but I couldn't get the snap ring out (my pliers only open the ring, not compress it). Can I just leave it unplugged or is it one of those things that need voltage to stay open?
I'll go back through all the fuses and grounds again to see if I missed something. Does anything piggyback off the ECM fuse? All my lights and electronics seem to be working fine if that matters.
Could the ECM have just up and died? I've seen stranger things than that happen before on gassers (mostly Dodges). That could explain why the check engine light was on but it said there were no codes present.
I was also wondering if it could be the cam gear key? I've heard that was a slight issue with the 6.5, but it didn't die while running. I've never known something like that to break while shut down, but who knows.
I'll also get that pmd on it's way back monday.
 
The fuel sol needs power, can you hear or feel it click when power is turned on? I've had fuse connection problems with it in the past.
 
The ECM fuse is fine if the SES and GPs cycle.

The only fuse that could bring you down otherwise is the FSOL fuse under the steering column, it power ths FSO and the PMD. I thought that checking fuses was one of the first things you had done though.

The troubleshooting in the thread I posted would reveal anything wrong with the electronics train that would prevent injection.
 
buddy said:
The ECM fuse is fine if the SES and GPs cycle.

The only fuse that could bring you down otherwise is the FSOL fuse under the steering column, it power ths FSO and the PMD. I thought that checking fuses was one of the first things you had done though.

The troubleshooting in the thread I posted would reveal anything wrong with the electronics train that would prevent injection.
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I did check the fuses, but I'm going to recheck them just to make sure.
 
You have wasted an incredible amount of time bouncing around doing this and that.
Take care of what you know is wrong before you move on or worry about trying to diagnose other stuff.

As far as I can tell by your posts you have one bad battery. You have to change it before you can diagnose much else.

You may not have been turning fast enough to start on the WD40 either.

Now you have terrible weather for to fight for a week or so.
 
I wouldnt consider that a waste of time. Glows were bad and there is no fuel injection. A low batt wont stop injection, and these trucks can start on one good battery, that is alone, or if the bad one isnt actually pulling amps to it and away from the starter. A dead battery will actually pull current from the good and ruin a good one, which is why you want to get them in matched pairs.
 
I'm with JRS, we need to step back and start 1 step at time "shotgunning" at all possibilities is compounding our trouble shooting efforts.

Yes a 6.5 can start on 1 good battery if it also is healthy or at full charged state, I suspect what we have here is 1 bad battery & 1 weakened one, consider what is happening cold weather starting attempt, draw of starter, draw of glows, draw of lift pump and other accessories all trying for juice from the battery bank.

Then if DTRLs are coming on intermittently between cranking if parking brake isn't applied the lights are drawing away from the already depleted bank.

Possibly during all this; volts are dropping to minimum so PCM/PMD ain't happy with minimal tron strength to them, or dropping out as glows cycle, or the shutdown solenoid on top of the IP can't stay open, or fully opened to allow proper fuel flow.

A battery check under load is only way to know battery health, take batts to part house for free load check, while there get a load cell a volt meter only indicates surface state of the battery voltage

Battery tester.jpg

IMO Every 6.5 owner; actually all modern vehicles need this due to PCM & sensors wanting proper juice to allow for starts do web search for car battery tester all models all features, analog or digital your choice how much you wanna pay for them.
 
Yes, we know the battery is weak, but batteries are expensive for a truck that dont run. It should be able to start with a jump or charger and these batteries have already been tested. He knows just how weak the one battery is and it was 150 CCA low. Stated in post #135. So no need to jump on his case, unfortunately not all problems have a simple answer, especially in the case of poor maintenance and dishonest sales tactics from previous owner. The PO knew what he was passing off most likely.

Maybe with enough ether the IP got spinning enough to overcome its internal issues and start injecting. You might try warming the IP up with a heat gun or heat bulb under the hood or something. Some worn IPs only work when cold, others only work right when warm (sputtering and smoking even more than normal while cold if it starts).
 
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