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94 2500 6.5 turbo won't start

Don't waste your money on anything but 60gs or duraterms and yes volt drop sounds about right

The ones I found for $8.99 are AC Delco 60g plugs from O'rielly's. Are those better than the OEM plugs? Would running a dedicated switch instead of the factory one help it start easier?
 
The glow plugs are still my bet, especially since the previous owner used ether.

How exactly did you test the plugs in the block?

If you were testing for continuity - one test lead to the spade connector on the glow plug and the other to ground and had no reading that would indicate a bad glow plug. No continuity = bad glow plug.

Does your tester have a buzzer?

At this point with the info about the ether use, you can just switch the glow plugs and skip the testing.

That's a good price on 60G's.
 
The glow plugs are still my bet, especially since the previous owner used ether.

How exactly did you test the plugs in the block?

If you were testing for continuity - one test lead to the spade connector on the glow plug and the other to ground and had no reading that would indicate a bad glow plug. No continuity = bad glow plug.

Does your tester have a buzzer?

At this point with the info about the ether use, you can just switch the glow plugs and skip the testing.

That's a good price on 60G's.

My tester doesn't have a buzzer so I set it on ohms (cheap pos). I went from the spade to the manifold and got no ohm reading at all on 3 of them on the driver's side. After I checked those three I called the guy to see if he knew when they were last replaced and he didn't know. That's when he told me about the ether and I started pricing the plugs. The 60g's I found a dollar cheaper at O'rielly than the autolights at advance or autozone.
 
My 95 wouldn't start found out there was only two glows that were working, even plugging it in on a 70 degree day wouldn't make it start. Bought some Bosch duratherms and put them in and she fired right up. Rock Auto has them for $7.67 ea. plus shipping.

Mark
 
My 95 wouldn't start found out there was only two glows that were working, even plugging it in on a 70 degree day wouldn't make it start. Bought some Bosch duratherms and put them in and she fired right up. Rock Auto has them for $7.67 ea. plus shipping.

Mark

That's a good price but this is my only vehicle right now so waiting for shipping isn't ideal. I've been checking and double checking and the only ones I've found all 8 in stock are 60G's for $8.99per. Everything I've gathered points to the plugs so I'll toss those in and hope for the best. Thanks for the tip though I'll have to get those next time.
 
Also, the guy I got it from included a descent 4" turbo back exhaust with the truck. Are there any mods I need to install it and make the most of it? I figure since I'm doing these other repairs I may as well throw that on while I'm at it. I assume I'll need a new/better down tube and gaskets but is there anything else I need?
It looks like it will exit in front of the axle if that makes a difference.
 
I got the 4 plugs on the left side but can't get to the right. Is there an easy way to do it without removing the inner fender? The plugs I removed looked pretty burnt. Found another freakin nest in the air box.
 
take out the inner fender. can be done thru the wheel well but taking off the inner fender gives way more access and gives you the opp to look at other items
 
#8 is the hardest I did mine from above

The ones I've done so far have been rusted pretty bad on the spade. I tried to start it after I got the first 4 in and it made no difference. Still acts like there's either no fuel or no fire. At this point I'm starting to think it's the IP or the injectors. If the other 4 don't help I'm lost.
 
As I sugested, take a 1/3 inch clear line about 6 feet long undo a fuel line at the injector, put the clear line over the fuel line end and run the other end into a container. try cranking the truck a few times and you should have fuel in the bucket/cup if you dont then its you need to do that again at the filter on the IP side and work your way back
 
I usually put a little coppercoat on the spades as well as on the glow plug threads.

Did you check ohms on the glow plugs you removed?

Did you check voltage at the glow plug wires while the glow plug controller is activated? Like I said before - easier if done with at least 2 people. The more the merrier. It's nice to have somebody hold your beer.

Don't worry about the IP til you are done with the glow plugs and know they are working.

I've always got the glow plugs through the wheel well. Sometimes for #8 I have to come up from the bottom.
 
For grips sakes, if money is tight, before you BUY anything else, crank the dam thing & have someone give it a light mist of either to see what the hell ya got...

Good Lord I don't like using either anymore then anyone else but this guy needs to know WTF he's got here before we spend him out of every cent he's got.
 
Set your tester on OHMs touch the 2 leads together. The tester should read 0 - no resistance. This is also what you want it to read when you test the glow plugs. IIRC the max is .04 ohms but zero is better.

The testers I use the most cost under $10.


My tester doesn't have a buzzer so I set it on ohms (cheap pos). I went from the spade to the manifold and got no ohm reading at all on 3 of them on the driver's side. After I checked those three I called the guy to see if he knew when they were last replaced and he didn't know. That's when he told me about the ether and I started pricing the plugs. The 60g's I found a dollar cheaper at O'rielly than the autolights at advance or autozone.
 
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