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210 hot or NOT?

Dave, I'll take of "everything" (might have to run and get some oddball parts, but I will come prepared.) We'll talk before hand and I'll make my list and check it twice....The only thing there will be a lack of is time to get everything I want done.....Trust me, it'll be worth your while/time and I'm sure we'll all have a good time.....We practically know each other for years now....We've just never met!:thumbsup::)

Besides I can't wait to bust Kenny's balls!:D:hihi:
 
If you do it some time after 1st week of September I'll try to hop across also. Hopping the big pond visiting the home country for folks 50th Wedding Anniversary etc in August so not around then.
 
Crankme69 said:
The radiator is spick & span clean with a new AC 190 delco stat
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Please explain - OEM is 195

Does "spick & span clean" refer to inside or outside? Outside clean means very little if the inside is plugged. Plugging can occur where you cannot see it right about where the fan is, where the temperatures will change as the coolant runs across the tubes. If it was posted and I missed it, then I apologize, but how old is your radiator? 4500 lbs. is not an issue.
 
nobby said:
If you do it some time after 1st week of September I'll try to hop across also. Hopping the big pond visiting the home country for folks 50th Wedding Anniversary etc in August so not around then.
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Now that would be Great and we'd love to have ya .....I've heard your praises from Tim and would love an Alumni like yourself, I'm sure you could teach us youngsters a thing or 7 :):hihi:

Seriously, thanks Nobby!
 
Acesneights1 said:
Oh, and yes over 210 is too hot. for a few seconds or so...ehh but a few minutes...crack crack crack crack crack
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Something I read in a different thread caught my attention earlier and made me do a little thinking.....which usually hurts. I was looking at thermostat specs for a 6.2/6.5.

It said the thermostat begins opening at 195, but doesn't fully open until around 210-212..... So, supposing our temp gauges are fairly accurate, which they probably aren't... 210 while towing "shouldn't" that out of the ordinary as the thermostat is just getting to the "fully open" position and allowing max flow to the radiator.

Obviously you would like to keep it below that temp if at all possible through good cooling system maintenance and the necessary 6.5 cooling system upgrades. So maybe with the needle pointing AT 210 isn't certain destruction, but if it starts to creep above 210, you should definately start worrying.
 
My 93 was running 210 consistently not towing but I had suspected the gauge was off..until I upgraded the cooling sys...:eek:
The gauge was accurate...
 
It's a balancing act, 180 stats for me is to cold in the winter. If you do not like the thought of changing stats twice a year then you have a choice to make based on your usage habits. Like I said earlier 210 does not freak me out as long as it stops and it correlates to a heavy load. For me I see the 210 on steep grades working her but it does not keep climbing so I am OK with that.

Cheers
Nobby
 
I personally dont think that hovering between 210F-220F is going to destroy your engine. We may have exaggerated the overheating problem to a fault. Many blocks have failed, many pistons have been broken, and cylinder walls ate up, but more than likely these saw actual overheating a few times, like 250-260F. There are also others that have run them to 250 for hours and not had them break. The cooling system was designed to keep it under 260F I think, is that the red on the guage? Obviously that is unacceptable, but have we done the thorough testing to prove that 210 is the temp or 220 or 225 ect...

I personally would not be worried about 210F ECT, but its a good point to get the fan clutch to engage, so you dont get much higher. [posted by buddy]
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I could be wrong, but even with better airflow trhough the rad. I believe that you will still have cooling issues as I have tried all sorts of things to fix/figure out what would be the best solution.

When I get on the warm side and bring egts down to 900/1000 sustained the coolant temp comes back in line pretty quick, indicating lack of pulling heat out of the combustion chamber efficiently.

I think that coolant flow is a major factor, even with the 99ho W/P which has helped, it still will hit 210/215 at 1,100 egt sustained after 5min. with a load behind me.

It might be that coolant isn't pulling the heat out of the cylinder [heat saturation] fast enough to keep up with temps being generated at high loads and long periods of time.

I'm not to worried about it now that I have the optimizer, it doesn't seem to mind running up to 215/220 for short periods, although I don't give it a steady diet of those temps.
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Well I thought I would update and share my latest experiance.
I just came back from mrytle beach and towed the camper. Well the first mistake I made was forgetting to mod the clutch as usual when towing . I usually leave it modded full off for mileage reasons and never had a day over 195.

Well that all changed when towing the camper. It was over 100* outside and the temps on the ect gauge went to 230* sustained for almost the whole 3 hr. drive there and that was with the AC cranked. I even hit 240* once up a big hill and the fan never came on the whole way.

I know it was foolish to not pull over and mod the clutch but the family would have died in the heat, and I figured what the hell lets see if this b&^%h can take it. Well it ran like ten good men and not one problem other than the dead batteries after we got to the campsite, that got replaced under warranty.

Thanks again ted's for the optmiser and I believe that along with the better metalurgy and redesign of the block, the low mileage also played a factor in the survivability of this motor.

My original 6.5 didn't crack but blew H/G's at 231,000 miles running at the same temps for only 10/15 mins.

Hows that for a test as to what the gep can do. I will not do it again on purpose and will replace the F/C with a severe duty one before towing again so as not to forget to mod it and take a chance of shortening the life of the motor.
 
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I just wish we got clutches like the big boys. air, or electric. (havent seen hydraulic on bigger OTR trucks, but I know Hummers have it) SOMEthing that is full on, full off, with user controls. leave it fully off 90 percent of the time, but flick it on for the big mountain pass, more a/c at idle, etc.


I bet a 6.5L specific electric fan clutch would sell well here!
 
GM Guy said:
I just wish we got clutches like the big boys. air, or electric. (havent seen hydraulic on bigger OTR trucks, but I know Hummers have it) SOMEthing that is full on, full off, with user controls. leave it fully off 90 percent of the time, but flick it on for the big mountain pass, more a/c at idle, etc.


I bet a 6.5L specific electric fan clutch would sell well here!
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I'm working on it....:D
Waiting for some parts to come. I am going try both hydraulic/air and electric. If anyone has a junk thread on hub WP for free I will pay shipping. condition is not important as long as the shaft is ok. As soon as I get comfortable with my new lathe, I got's some ideas....
 
robzombie4551 said:
Well I thought I would update and share my latest experiance.
I just came back from mrytle beach and towed the camper. Well the first mistake I made was forgetting to mod the clutch as usual when towing . I usually leave it modded full off for mileage reasons and never had a day over 195.

Well that all changed when towing the camper. It was over 100* outside and the temps on the ect gauge went to 230* sustained for almost the whole 3 hr. drive there and that was with the AC cranked. I even hit 240* once up a big hill and the fan never came on the whole way.

I know it was foolish to not pull over and mod the clutch but the family would have died in the heat, and I figured what the hell lets see if this b&^%h can take it. Well it ran like ten good men and not one problem other than the dead batteries after we got to the campsite, that got replaced under warranty.

Thanks again ted's for the optmiser and I believe that along with the better metalurgy and redesign of the block, the low mileage also played a factor in the survivability of this motor.

My original 6.5 didn't crack but blew H/G's at 231,000 miles running at the same temps for only 10/15 mins.

Hows that for a test as to what the gep can do. I will not do it again on purpose and will replace the F/C with a severe duty one before towing again so as not to forget to mod it and take a chance of shortening the life of the motor.
Click to expand...

Did you put that cover on ? Did it fit ?
 
Let us know as soon as the test phase is complete so we can jump on board if it pans out for under 500.00 bucks [in my case anyways.]

Otherwise I'll stay with what I have, it works okay, just have to remember to do the F/C mod before towing.

But would love on/off capibility. Best of both worlds, mileage and towing performance.
 
waitin for parts.....And then probably won't get to the actual trial until the end of Aug. Need the burb for a few weeks, then I can lay it up.
 
aces, I assume the need for the burb for a few weeks is to go kidnap David (88GMCtruck) to do the wiring? :)

I would love a stock appearance to it, down to the switches, and metri-pak connectors! make it look like GM did it.

I personally am a fan of modified stock, to the untrained eye, everything looks stock, but a trained eye will spot the mods. A "sleeper" if you will

I assume that only the spin on pump will get it, as that is the best pump to run?
 
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