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210 hot or NOT?

part# 216013. Three days to get 140$. Already looked into it. I have a Hayden 2840(spin on) on order coming monday for the 93. If I hate the Kennedy, it will go alng with the 98's WP to the 93 and the 98 will then get the Hayden with the 99+ WP so I have a place to use it if not happy but then again that line of thinking didn't get me very far with the rad swap did it...:suicide:
 
Aces you are the first to report issues modding the clutch. If you put in the copper radiator, then its going to take longer for the clutch to kick in the first time each drive. Thats because copper absorbs heat much better, but it retains it better too, does not shed heat as well as aluminum. Thats partly why they switched to cheaper aluminum. So the radiator will hold onto the heat longer and take a little longer for the clutch to get heated up. After the first lockup it might already be warm and lock up quicker.

At what temp did it lock up previously?
 
about 215-220. That was before rad change and clutch mod. I did both at the same time which is always a mistake. Should always do mods one at a time so if something goes wrong, you know why. Now I'm guessing did I screw up the mod or is the new rad causing it. I yanked the rad back out today and switched it back but did not go for test run. That truck got waayyyy too hot yesterday and I don't wish to push it that hard again. I'll wait for the new clutch then see.
 
part# 216013. Three days to get 140$.
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What...Did you hack into my computer and phone line.....Thats scary right there!

FWIW, I think Tim is on to something (That might be the understatment of the century...Tim is always on to/Up to something!):skep: with the "Fluids"......When that tranny fluid gets hot in combo with the engine oil, your past the point of no return, the cooling system may shed the heat from the coolant, but the oil is still heating things up, not letting the truck recover 100%.......The cooling system just simply can't keep up.

Like driving around with your block heater plugged in!.....Thats a bad analogy, but you know what I'm trying to say.

Maybe that Jumbo STP oil filter (or similar size) and a DEEP tranny pan, might net you more than a few degree's in the overall engine temp.....Like Tim had/has already explained.....I guess EVERYTHING counts, when trying to achieve a cooler running rig...
 
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If the ECT seems to rapidly jump from t-stat temp to 210+, like in less than a minute, then another thing I would recommend is lowering the amount of antifreeze in the coolant. Water absorbs heat, anti-freeze not so much, so a system with 50/50 solution is not ideal for hot weather and heavy loading. In hot weather you can drain the radiator and use only water and a bottle of water wetter to refill it. Leaving the antifreeze solution left thats still in the block. That will be able to quelch short durations of load and allow time for the fan clutch to heat up.
 
buddy said:
If the ECT seems to rapidly jump from t-stat temp to 210+, like in less than a minute, then another thing I would recommend is lowering the amount of antifreeze in the coolant. Water absorbs heat, anti-freeze not so much, so a system with 50/50 solution is not ideal for hot weather and heavy loading. In hot weather you can drain the radiator and use only water and a bottle of water wetter to refill it. Leaving the antifreeze solution left thats still in the block. That will be able to quelch short durations of load and allow time for the fan clutch to heat up.
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The problem with that is a dope like me will forget come winter time...crack...:D
 
Acesneights1 said:
The problem with that is a dope like me will forget come winter time...crack...:D
Click to expand...

There's a guy around here that has a 6.2 truck that the block physically cracked right by the starter due to someone leaving pure water in the cooling system. He said there's a huge crack up the side of the block.
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
What...Did you hack into my computer and phone line.....Thats scary right there!

FWIW, I think Tim is on to something (That might be the understatment of the century...Tim is always on to/Up to something!):skep: with the "Fluids"......When that tranny fluid gets hot in combo with the engine oil, your past the point of no return, the cooling system may shed the heat from the coolant, but the oil is still heating things up, not letting the truck recover 100%.......The cooling system just simply can't keep up.

Like driving around with your block heater plugged in!.....Thats a bad analogy, but you know what I'm trying to say.

Maybe that Jumbo STP oil filter (or similar size) and a DEEP tranny pan, might net you more than a few degree's in the overall engine temp.....Like Tim had/has already explained.....I guess EVERYTHING counts, when trying to achieve a cooler running rig...
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure that has all been said about a hundred times... but everybody wants to find the 'next greatest thing', and so it gets continually ignored.

Cooling a 6.5 is a matter of doing a lot of little things well... not doing any one big thing.

= Spotlessly clean rad and stack
= proper thermostat (AC Delco or Stirling for the single, AC Delco, Stirling, or RobertShaw for double)
= proper coolant mixture (I know, this has been hashed out before, but a good coolant mixture works. Straight water may be more efficient, but it isn't necessary)
= efficient fan clutch - the HD and SD models have higher torque transfer percentages, earlier engagement isn't always necessary, but late engagement is fatal. Having a clean coil is essential.
= TCC Lock-up. The transmission generates a HUGE amount of heat when towing, and having the TCC locked can lower that heat by a huge amount, which is important, as it gets transfered to the coolant.
= efficient fan.. the plastic DMax fans pull the most air. Period.
= good injectors with a clean pattern
= proper PCM tuning and proper IP timing

None of these, by themselves, are enough. Different combinations, in different situations, may be sufficient. YMMV.

And yes, every truck is different. But before you start pooh-poohing this advice, consider BJs recent experiences... he has gone across America in very high ambients, pulling a 37' trailer, without using his WMI, and without overheating - which some in this thread have claimed impossible. Surely having a new long block isn't the singular cure to the overheating woes?
 
Jim:

I have hit about 212-215 on a few very long uphills at 60-65 mph. However, since the thrash in ellensberg, it won't push over 215 anywhere.

But that's a pretty rare occurrence.

Wyoming was a nightmare of headwinds and really long uphills and she would run around 205-210.

It would hit 205-210 on passes like 4th of July and lookout pass. But that was holding 45-55 mph and pretty close to the very top. using WI also.

Could get 1050+ F anytime I wanted with throttle on the passes. I limited myself to no more than that.

Keep in mind, I was driving only three gauges; egt, water temp and fuel gauge. Didn't give a whit about speed. I got what I got.

Everywhere else ( including some long uphills elsewhere along the route) it runs anywhere from 190-205. Spends most of it's time around 205-ish. Pretty much able to ignore egts and just give it more load pedal when I wanted more speed.

Throw on the water and it stays down around 190-200 no mater how stupid you get with throttle.

This is all with the 8000lb travel trailer in tow.

My truck:

New optimizer from GM parts
New water autozone pump (bill told the shop which one to get)
Stock 98 clutch
Stock 98 steel fan (9 blade?can't remember)
Rad was boiled and cleaned
Tstats are about a week old and ac delco dual setup
Heath PCM with "hill decent assist" (converter lockup)
Heath TM
New stock Bosch injectors sourced from Bill while I was there
4" diamond eye with straight through muffler
2.5" warpspeed crossover pipe
Stock k47 box with a k&n drop in

Take it for what it's worth gents
 
Thanks, BJ... make no mistake, keeping these monsters cool is, had been, and will be an ongoing problem.

But it can be done. That's what this is all about... finding ways to do what others say can't be done. The 6.5 community has been doing that all along.

Well, except for Mikey.
 
My Burb does What BJ reported but those 220 spikes are too hot IMHO. I don't like riding the edge of the knife like that. That is what I am trying to get rid of. I was not massively overheating just trying to get temps more consistent and under 200 at all times. See how the Kennedy Clutch does. I wrecked my clutch anyway with the spring mod.
 
Keep looking, Kenny ... you'll figure out what it is... I got faith in ya!

The clutch mod works. Really. One of two things happened with yours; you f)*^%*d it up and went backwards with it (which I have done - 'cause I sometimes do dumb things), or your copper rad idea acted exactly as Buddy described.

It ain't water temps that engage the clutch, it's AIR temps. The air has to hit the rad, pick up heat, carry that heat to the bimetalic coil, and make it expand. However, an old clutch is an old clutch, as was mentioned.

Turbine Doc, Oregon Horse Tug and others have first-hand experience with the Kennedy clutch... it does indeed engage earlier - but it doesn't disengage, and that translates to parasitic loss, which can also cause overheating (aside from loss of power, and poor fuel economy, and a TON of noise). Turning the fan on way too early isn't a bad idea, it just ain't the best idea.
 
A new block will transfer heat better as there are no deposits built up.

I have the stock fan and pump and I don't over heat, the only time was with a NAPA T stat.
 
Acesneights1 said:
The problem with that is a dope like me will forget come winter time...crack...:D
Click to expand...

Luckily for me, I never am in freezing temps. Although with somewhere between 10 and 20% anti-freeze I feel if I go where its around freezing it will be alright. If I take my 2WD to a ski mountain, I'll have to consider it, along with a lot of sandbags in the bed. Its an easy solution to summertime woes. If the water can absorb more heat it can also more efficienctly transfer it to the aluminum.
 
NVW said:
A new block will transfer heat better as there are no deposits built up.

I have the stock fan and pump and I don't over heat, the only time was with a NAPA T stat.
Click to expand...

Hmmm......The municipality this truck came from used NAPA....Damn, and I had the system drained to...I didn't think it mattered so much on duals.
 
It can matter more on duals, Kenny; they have those dumb rubber gaskets, and the cheap Tstats tend to both lose those and eat them. There goes your bypass effect...
 
This is on a single T stat, the NAPA didn't have the rubber wrap like the AC Delco. I don't think it opened soon enough or it didn't block the bypass right.
 
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