n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Where are you seeing that? I only have pressure gauges and in the gauges I just installed I only have fuel and oil pressure.
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1994 K3500 extended cab dually
- Thread starter n8in8or
- Start date
jrsavoie
Recruit
I concur. I had a little sticker shock when gauge shopping.
It might be a smaller market than is represented here
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Center gauge on the pillar post set. I expanded the pic and turns out that 0 seems to be a 8. What happens when You get old and the world is in a cataract blurrrrr.
Bowhunterbrown
Member
- Messages
- 27
- Reaction score
- 79
I have been reading through this post here and there over the last couple week. Inspiring and also a problem. n8in8or is enabling me in my addiction to buying 6.5 parts. Such impressive work.
Did I miss it, are you running a stock Cam?
Thanks for taking the time to thoroughly document your work in photos and writing.
Did I miss it, are you running a stock Cam?
Thanks for taking the time to thoroughly document your work in photos and writing.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Ha ha, sorry (not sorry) about your addiction.
I am still running the stock cam.
Bowhunterbrown
Member
- Messages
- 27
- Reaction score
- 79
I was hoping that was the answer. I am getting close to assembling my 6.5 and started thinking I needed to look into modified cams, but if you are making that kind of power on a stock, then I will quite worrying about cams.
Compared to stock stamped rockers, the roller rockers due add a slight amount of lift though, right? I wonder how much that contributes to the power you are making.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Quite a coincidence that this thread got active again this week…..
The engine in this truck has been eating a little coolant for a bit now. I figured my high drive pressures and occasional high EGTs had hurt a head gasket again, or maybe a head. I’ve been keeping an eye on it and really don’t use the truck that often so it hasn’t been a problem. Then in September I was romping on it one day (including staying door hand to door handle with a 90s Vette
) and then the low coolant light came on. So I topped it off. Then it was using coolant quite a bit more frequently. A couple weeks ago I drove the truck 1.5 hours on the highway pulling my trailer to go get a truck frame. When I got to the destination there was a fair amount of white “smoke” coming out of the tail pipe. I couldn’t really smell anything other than diesel, but then my low coolant light came on. I had brought extra coolant with me so I topped it off before driving home. The next day I fired it up and no smoke at first, but there was some black spray coming out of the pipe. Hmm….perhaps this new smoke is the seal going out on the turbo? The next weekend I drove it 50 minutes away with the trailer to get another truck frame and it used another half gallon of coolant. Ok, so even if it is the turbo seal, I have a real coolant problem here. I already had a Borg S366 I’ve been waiting to install, I guess this is the perfect time to do that and head gaskets. I just got the heads off today finally. I don’t see anything wrong on initial inspection with either the heads or gaskets. However, #8 cylinder isn’t looking great. I’ve never had the pleasure of seeing a cracked cylinder in person, but this sure looks like one to me, especially since this is the problem-prone #8, even though it’s an Optimizer. I guess I’ll pull the engine now and have everything checked for cracks. Looks like I’ll be pulling some parts off the shelves and putting an engine together. This is going to hurt my Frankensquare project timeline…..
The engine in this truck has been eating a little coolant for a bit now. I figured my high drive pressures and occasional high EGTs had hurt a head gasket again, or maybe a head. I’ve been keeping an eye on it and really don’t use the truck that often so it hasn’t been a problem. Then in September I was romping on it one day (including staying door hand to door handle with a 90s Vette
) and then the low coolant light came on. So I topped it off. Then it was using coolant quite a bit more frequently. A couple weeks ago I drove the truck 1.5 hours on the highway pulling my trailer to go get a truck frame. When I got to the destination there was a fair amount of white “smoke” coming out of the tail pipe. I couldn’t really smell anything other than diesel, but then my low coolant light came on. I had brought extra coolant with me so I topped it off before driving home. The next day I fired it up and no smoke at first, but there was some black spray coming out of the pipe. Hmm….perhaps this new smoke is the seal going out on the turbo? The next weekend I drove it 50 minutes away with the trailer to get another truck frame and it used another half gallon of coolant. Ok, so even if it is the turbo seal, I have a real coolant problem here. I already had a Borg S366 I’ve been waiting to install, I guess this is the perfect time to do that and head gaskets. I just got the heads off today finally. I don’t see anything wrong on initial inspection with either the heads or gaskets. However, #8 cylinder isn’t looking great. I’ve never had the pleasure of seeing a cracked cylinder in person, but this sure looks like one to me, especially since this is the problem-prone #8, even though it’s an Optimizer. I guess I’ll pull the engine now and have everything checked for cracks. Looks like I’ll be pulling some parts off the shelves and putting an engine together. This is going to hurt my Frankensquare project timeline…..
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Here’s a video of the boost (left gauge) and drive pressure (right gauge) during a pull. Definitely more drive pressure than I want to have.
93detroit
Well-Known Member
Oh no, Nate! Which turbo is that, the 18cm hx40?
Rockabillyrat
SlIgHtLy StUpId.
Ouch that's a kick in the balls! Hopefully its not a crack and you can fix it with some oversized pistons... it would be cool to try the 6.2 sleeves in a 6.5 block we had talked about. But im sure you need to save money for the square body project.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Yeah, the CKO HX40 that had an “18” in the turbine so presumably it’s 18cm. It also has a Turbo Lab 10 blade turbine wheel and their 62mm compressor wheel and housing.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Yeah. Sucks. Definitely not what I needed to deal with right now.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
It still ran on all 8, just one of them was water injected in addition to diesel.
93detroit
Well-Known Member
In all fairness to the Optimizer, that thing has held a lot of power for a long time.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Yeah, and I think I abused it with the high drive pressure and EGTs. I should have swapped the turbo much sooner, though I think it was first hurt at the Ohio event last year and that was when I was still shaking down the 62mm HX40.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Dang man. Well, one sleeve isn’t too expensive?
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I have other blocks I can use, but yeah, I’ll definitely not throw it on the scrap pile. I’m curious to see if the mains are still intact.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I got the engine out last night and started the teardown. So far I have #7 and #8 rods and pistons out. All of the rods look straight upon initial inspection. The skirts of 7 and 8 pistons look good. So far I'm not seeing any cracks in the main webs, which is surprising, but good. I peered into the coolant jacket around the #8 cylinder and didn't see anything that looked like a crack from that side, but I realize that's hardly a perfect check. I'll take the block into the machine shop and have them check the cylinder to see if it is indeed cracked. I dropped the heads off Monday so they could check those. I'll continue the teardown tonight.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Oh, one disassembly note that I forgot to share this weekend:
When I installed the heads on the shortblock in 2020, I used @Twisted Steel Performance 's head stud sealing technique using Optimum Black on the threads into the block. When I had to change the head gaskets, everything was still sealed well and it also came apart fine. This time, since I was reinstalling the heads with the short block still in the truck, I didn't feel like I could safely do the Optimum Black method since it would smear off the stud when I slid it down the bolt hole of the head........so instead I decided to try the AC Delco thread sealant. I have used the stuff for years after @THEFERMANATOR mentioned it in a thread years ago as a good product for sealing the threads on head studs on everything BUT head studs because I had been too scared to try it after having my initial head stud leak, but I've really enjoyed how well it seals on everything that I have used it on. This time though it seemed like the right product to use so I went for it. During teardown this past weekend I found that the studs were all still sealed very well, but they were also stuck in the block a lot harder than with the Permatex - I had 15 studs that I wasn't able to screw out of the block using the hex drive in the end of the stud. The driver side head I was able to lift off over the studs and then remove those studs by doubling the nuts up. The passenger side head I lifted up and slid a couple pieces of wood 2x4 underneath to support the head, then I used vice grips to loosen the studs. I'm not sure I'd do anything different for sealant given the circumstances, but I thought I'd share the experience for info.
When I installed the heads on the shortblock in 2020, I used @Twisted Steel Performance 's head stud sealing technique using Optimum Black on the threads into the block. When I had to change the head gaskets, everything was still sealed well and it also came apart fine. This time, since I was reinstalling the heads with the short block still in the truck, I didn't feel like I could safely do the Optimum Black method since it would smear off the stud when I slid it down the bolt hole of the head........so instead I decided to try the AC Delco thread sealant. I have used the stuff for years after @THEFERMANATOR mentioned it in a thread years ago as a good product for sealing the threads on head studs on everything BUT head studs because I had been too scared to try it after having my initial head stud leak, but I've really enjoyed how well it seals on everything that I have used it on. This time though it seemed like the right product to use so I went for it. During teardown this past weekend I found that the studs were all still sealed very well, but they were also stuck in the block a lot harder than with the Permatex - I had 15 studs that I wasn't able to screw out of the block using the hex drive in the end of the stud. The driver side head I was able to lift off over the studs and then remove those studs by doubling the nuts up. The passenger side head I lifted up and slid a couple pieces of wood 2x4 underneath to support the head, then I used vice grips to loosen the studs. I'm not sure I'd do anything different for sealant given the circumstances, but I thought I'd share the experience for info.