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1994 K3500 extended cab dually

Well today ended up turning out a bit different from what I expected.....

I had the day off of work, so I decided I would spend the first part of the day cutting some power mirror harnesses from a 95-98 truck and the door switch harness from a 2000-2002 truck so I could piece together a power mirror setup for this truck. I found that stuff pretty quickly with some trucks already having their inner door panels removed so that was cool.

Then I remembered that one of the tabs on my fuse panel cover was broken so I might as well look for one of those while I’m out here. I started searching, and every 88-94 I came across was missing the cover! So I figured either these break on everybody over the years and they just end up missing or people snag them whenever they find a good one. Ok...so I kept searching. About halfway through the GM section I found a good one in a Suburban...and it just happened to be gray. Cool. Well if they’re this hard to find, I may as well keep looking so I can have a spare. I looked in every 88-94 and they were all gone. Wow.

Finally with about 3 rows left I found a second one in a Sub, and again it was gray. Score! Then I looked at the doors and this truck had the rare power mirror option....and everything was still intact and in pretty decent condition! I’ve seen the power mirror stuff at the yard before, but usually the vultures have gotten to it first and torn it apart just to grab the power mirror switch and they also usually cut the harness, which then makes it useless to me for doing a retro. Now here’s one that’s intact! Sure since it’s a Sub it has extra switches and wiring, but this is a great start. So I carefully removed the panels and the door harnesses. I also wanted to get as much of the harness in the dash as I could so it would be plug-n-play as much as possible. I started tracing the harness and it was part of the main harness that goes across the top of the firewall behind the dash. Boo. Hmmmm....then I looked at the dash - it was a nice, crack-free, gray dash.....if I removed the dash to get the harness out, I’d have a good harness AND a good dash, so that’s what I did. I went back home to get more tools and then came back to finish the job. I also scoped out other power mirror 88-94s there and grabbed anything the vultures had left so I’d have spares. I actually found 3 more mirror switches! Also a spare driver switch on a Sub and 4 passenger switches. I also found a 2 door Blazer that had the wrong switch and bezel in it, but the wiring was there plus someone had already removed the dash, so I was able to easily grab the dash harness as well.

Now with all these parts, hopefully I have enough good parts to make a set that functions properly and still have some spares. For now I’ll install the 4 door switch panel until I can find a gray one from a Blazer or Yukon and then I’ll swap it out. Not the day I planned, but I’d say it turned out pretty well in the end.

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You called them vultures and then you came home with this stash? 🤣

I don't think it would be too difficult to wire up power mirrors with a switch from another vehicle? I guess the harness would make the mirrors plug in, but I remember reading the stock switches are usually garbage.
That's fair. I guess by "vultures" I was referring to the guys that were coming in and just breaking the panels/bezels, cutting wires and leaving junk parts beyond what they wanted in their wake. I was trying to take whole parts.

I still may end up doing my own wiring with other switches, but figured I'd try these parts out first since it's fun having rare parts in a truck. I also want to try taking the switch apart and see if a non-working on can be fixed by cleaning/repairing contacts. But in the end, if it doesn't work, I feel pretty confident my plan to use a 2000-2002 switch in the panel with 95-98 mirror connectors in the doors would have worked, just this way I don't have to re-engineer wiring.
 
That's fair. I guess by "vultures" I was referring to the guys that were coming in and just breaking the panels/bezels, cutting wires and leaving junk parts beyond what they wanted in their wake. I was trying to take whole parts.

I still may end up doing my own wiring with other switches, but figured I'd try these parts out first since it's fun having rare parts in a truck. I also want to try taking the switch apart and see if a non-working on can be fixed by cleaning/repairing contacts. But in the end, if it doesn't work, I feel pretty confident my plan to use a 2000-2002 switch in the panel with 95-98 mirror connectors in the doors would have worked, just this way I don't have to re-engineer wiring.

Butchers, is what you mean. I get it. I haven't been to the yard in quite a while. A few of them have disappeared from this area. It was pretty aggravating to see someone destroy 10 good parts to get to the one part they needed.

The GMT400 store should be open soon. Centrally located in Kalamazoo MI.
 
I didn’t get as much time as normal to work on the truck this week. I finally got all of today to work on it so I expected to have a ton done to show for it, but I always underestimate how long it will take to get wiring done.

I got the radiator fan clutch controller, relay for the trans cooler fan and the circuit breakers for the fans and the headlights installed and wired (headlights aren’t wired yet). I’m pretty happy with how the breakers and everything turned out, but the bottom side stuff turned out to be a bit more of a rat’s nest than I would have liked.....but that was the result of me installing plugs everywhere it made sense so things would be serviceable in the future.

B14611FF-CF3D-4223-BDFF-859EA4B21398.jpeg05D8812D-ED82-4B87-9242-71FD0FC71289.jpeg347479B4-C94C-41B4-82D0-F95A20089838.jpeg

I also had to extend the wiring on the temp sensor for the controller because I already had my mechanical water temp gauge in the rear of the passenger side head, so the second best location I had available was in the rear of the driver side head.

708670E7-9DAD-4ADE-854C-B4EFC05F76BB.jpeg

I still have to wire up the push button switches/indicators for the fans in the dash and install the front harness which will include custom wiring for the headlights that will incorporate heavier wiring, relays and the 4 high mod. Sure thought it would be driving by now, but it should be soon.
 
I didn’t get as much time as normal to work on the truck this week. I finally got all of today to work on it so I expected to have a ton done to show for it, but I always underestimate how long it will take to get wiring done.

I got the radiator fan clutch controller, relay for the trans cooler fan and the circuit breakers for the fans and the headlights installed and wired (headlights aren’t wired yet). I’m pretty happy with how the breakers and everything turned out, but the bottom side stuff turned out to be a bit more of a rat’s nest than I would have liked.....but that was the result of me installing plugs everywhere it made sense so things would be serviceable in the future.

View attachment 64679View attachment 64680View attachment 64682

I also had to extend the wiring on the temp sensor for the controller because I already had my mechanical water temp gauge in the rear of the passenger side head, so the second best location I had available was in the rear of the driver side head.

View attachment 64681

I still have to wire up the push button switches/indicators for the fans in the dash and install the front harness which will include custom wiring for the headlights that will incorporate heavier wiring, relays and the 4 high mod. Sure thought it would be driving by now, but it should be soon.
You never cease to amaze me, "JUST AWESOME".
 
I’m working on the circuitry that will control the radiator fan clutch and the electric fan on the remote trans cooler. I wanted a switch that could function not only as a manual override for the fan, but also as an indicator for when the automatic system has commanded the fan to turn on. This is a demo to show what I’ve come up with. I still need to trim wires and loom, etc, but I couldn’t wait to try it out so I rigged up a quick circuit to give it a try. I think it’s gonna be slick.


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Nice choice in buttons. Looks like a squeeze to get them both on that little plate. Some careful drilling there.

I'm guessing that the LED is connected to the same side of the relay as the fan, or fan clutch in this case?

If you push the button while the temp controller is already commanding the fan on, will the fan remain on if the temp controller drops out?
 
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