‘94 Transfer Case

[Big T]

94/95 was a crossover year for that transfer case, so still probably best to split it to find what size input bearing it has. As far as I know you can't decipher model year from the tag on the 241, which is probably why the vendor went by VIN

I've split a 241 open several times, they are really simple and not difficult to work on when it comes to seals, chain, and some bearings. There's a few blind hole bearings that will need some kind of puller if you want to go that deep into it. Some just leave the bearings and do the seals, plastic tabs on the shift fork and call it good. Getting the rear output shaft assembled is a bit tricky with the oil pump sliding around and pickup tube easily dislodged. Just take it easy going back together and you'll be good.

I don't see this bushing in the rebuild kit, it's for the tail housing, link if you want to go the extra mile

BW4444 BW4445 BW4485 MP1222LD MP3023LD NP246 NP149 NP136 NP208 NP231 NP236 NP241 NP261 NP263 MUNCIE SUPER T10 8L90 TRANSMISSION & TRANSFER CASE EXTENSION HOUSING BUSHING (WT297-62)

BW4444 BW4445 MP1222LD MP3023LD NP246 NP149 NP136 NP208 NP231 NP241 NP261 NP263 MUNCIE SUPER T10 TRANSMISSION & TRANSFER CASE EXTENSION HOUSING BUSHING (WT297-62)

www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com

Also I suggest this upgraded snap ring as part of the output shaft assembly, much sturdier than factory and prevents future problems of the slip yoke repeatedly slamming into the single snap ring

NP231 NP233 NP241 NP243 TRANSFER CASE OUTPUT BEARING SPLIT RING RETAINER KIT FITS MODELS WITH 32-SPLINE 1.375" SHAFT BY SONNAX

NP231 NP233 NP241 NP243 TRANSFER CASE OUTPUT BEARING SPLIT RING RETAINER KIT FITS MODELS WITH 32-SPLINE 1.375" SHAFT BY SONNAX

www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com

Finally when re-sealing everything Permatex Optimum Black is my recommendation, a hard gasket maker did not play nice with my case. I use Optimum black on pretty much everything with great results. I also run TriboDyn 75W90 gear oil in my case instead of ATF, but I'm putting a lot more abuse on my rig so either would be fine for your application

I was in a rush and forgot to get the measurement on the input bearing. My son could get the measurement this weekend. Where is the input bearing located. Is it the one located in the case half which connects to the transmission?

Where can I get a new pump?

What type of pullers will I need for the needle bearings, regular bearings and seals?

 

[DieselAmateur]

I got my replacement oil pump here

NP231 NP233 NP241 NP242 NP243 TRANSFER CASE OIL PUMP 38-spline 4338936 (16209)

np231 np233 np241 np242 np243 4338936 transfer case pump mopar 16209 351500

www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com

at about 6:20 of this video you can see the oil pump on the output shaft and how the tabs on the oil pump are on the top surface of the case half being removed. The cover that came off the top of this case half has slots that align with the pump tabs. As I mentioned earlier the pump has enough play to have a tab slide under the large case half, which will make mating the two main halves together impossible and forcing it will cause the tab to snap off

Input shaft bearing seen at 8:52, yes it's right there in the case half that mates to the transmission. You want to measure the thickness of the bearing; the diameter is the same, it's the "height" of the bearing that needs to match the input shaft. Here's a side by side picture of the two different bearings on corresponding shafts

IDN-401 NP231, NP233, NP241, NP242 Input Bearing Width Tech Help

Read input bearing width tech help information at Torque King. Our input bearing width help is for NP231, NP233, NP241, and NP242 series transfer cases. Browse input bearing width tech help information for free today.

torqueking.com

I didn't do bearings on mine, but I know some of the bearings will need a blind hole bearing puller. I've never tried using bread in lieu of grease and only once tried using grease and a tight bolt to remove a bearing in a blind hole and it just made a mess so I cut it out carefully. You might be able to rent a bearing puller kit from an auto parts store if you don't want to invest in one

I have a bearing race driver kit that I used for pressing out seals, but a socket with slightly smaller diameter than seal also works just as well

 

[GM Guy]

Pay attention to your front yoke setup and case length. 95+ is a direct yoke, 94 and older should be a flange.

Shaft length is different so these are not interchangeable.

Case length differs slightly, which might be problematic for your driveshaft.

Unfortunately I ran into this on my 95, during a clutch job and transmission swap I decided to do a front seal on the t-case, under the seal retainer was a cracked bearing housing, so only spare t-case I had was for a 93, so I'm running around without a front driveshaft since the 93 shaft came out of a half ton so had wrong u-joints to hook up to my diff.
Luckily between the t-case slip yoke and driveshaft slip yoke I was able to eat up the slight length difference, but I need to get it corrected.

I was able to snag a unit from a 97 k2500 gasser in the local pick and pull.

Aside from the fill and drain plugs being different (be still my OCD...lol) , I think it is the same as my original 95 case.

As far as splines, it was explained to me that 4l80e, nv4500 and nv3500 were the big spline shaft, and 4l60e was the smaller shaft with less spline count.

 

[GM Guy]

Also, is ultra black rtv resistant enough to atf for the seal retainer plate or do I need to buy some anaerobic sealer?

I have some anaerobic on hand in KS that I used on the 93 case that's in it now, but none here in Idaho, I really should just pack it in the pickup...lol
I'm leaning towards buying some anaerobic, that way there is zero chance of using too much and plugging the lube hole, but my cheapness is pushing me towards the rtv...lol

 

[Will L.]

I have done ultra black and had no problem. But using the right amount becomes a skill set of practice. Honestly its been enough years now that I will not do it without a practice squish and examine just to make sure.
Most people report higher success rate with the anaerobic sealer.

On the blind bearing puller- DO NOT get the cheaper ones. Too many failures and damage from them. However on the driver set- harbor fraud has a descent set for around $40.

 

[Big T]

I have done ultra black and had no problem. But using the right amount becomes a skill set of practice. Honestly its been enough years now that I will not do it without a practice squish and examine just to make sure.
Most people report higher success rate with the anaerobic sealer.

On the blind bearing puller- DO NOT get the cheaper ones. Too many failures and damage from them. However on the driver set- harbor fraud has a descent set for around $40.

Blind bearing puller??

 

[DieselAmateur]

I've used Optimum Black pretty much exclusively with no issues. Re- sealed my t- case several times with it, sealed my rear diff, sealed the PTO covers on the NV4500. I've seen others talk about using RTV silicone in re- sealing this case, so either is probably fine. Optimum black advertises itself as having maximum oil resistance, which is why I used it for the aforementioned applications.

@Big T a blind bearing puller is for bearings that are driven in one way and can't be pressed out from the opposite direction. Like a pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft for the manual transmssion input shaft. The puller goes into the center of the bearing and then has little feet/ tabs that spread out and grab behind the bearing, allowing you to pull it out. There's at least one blind hole bearing in one of the case halves.

 

[Will L.]

Blind bearing puller??

Option 2 is use heavy grease or bread :

See how the attachment goes through the bearing and the lips grab the inside of the bearing? But notice in the bread video his cheap one broke? So don’t waste time on a cheap one- they always fail. Don’t think lifetime warranty is ok, because you will just brake the same thing 10’times and not get out the bearing or race.
No, you can’t always use grease/ bread trick. Especially for a race.

 

[GM Guy]

Anyone have a torque value handy for the nut that holds the front output yoke on? I'm 1000 miles away from my service manuals.

I'm on #2 with my 2767 Milwaukee, which is about 140 lb ft, as I use it on my lug nuts on that setting and double check with a torque wrench. I thought the manual said 150, but I can't remember 100%

 

[Big T]

Ordered the rebuild kit, the bushing and a pump. Also ordered a bling bearing puller kit.

 

[Big T]

Started in on the transfer case rebuild. It was mostly taking apart the rest and cleaning things up, then removing bearings and pressing the new ones in.

I got the wrong kit with the taller bearing:



The old bearing rusted from the water intrusion, so it was good that I’m replacing. Will need to order the correct bearing.

All the the external seals are the wrong size. These are the seals on the rear drive shaft output:



This is the seal for the front drive shaft output:



Another set and they’re not even the same color:



I’ll have to get this sorted out next week.

 

[Big T]

Started in on the transfer case rebuild. It was mostly taking apart the rest and cleaning things up, then removing bearings and pressing the new ones in.

I got the wrong kit with the taller bearing:

View attachment 80693View attachment 80694

The old bearing rusted from the water intrusion, so it was good that I’m replacing. Will need to order the correct bearing.

All the the external seals are the wrong size. These are the seals on the rear drive shaft output:
View attachment 80695
View attachment 80696

This is the seal for the front drive shaft output:
View attachment 80697
View attachment 80698

Another set and they’re not even the same color:

View attachment 80699View attachment 80700

 

[Big T]

These are the seals for the front drive shaft output:



The blue one is the old one I removed. It fits snug. The red is the new one and it drops in and fits loose. Clearly the incorrect seal.

 

[Big T]

This is the seal between the transfer case and transmission. Both were green, but the new one is clearly larger.

 

[Big T]

Can’t remember where this large clip goes. It’s an inny that you pry inwards to remove.

 

[Big T]

Kit has extra seals and roller bearings that do not have a home:

 

[Big T]

I bought the recommended bushing for the rear drive shaft housing but can’t figure out how to remove the old one.

 

[Will L.]

Send that back and get the right kit

 

[Big T]

Send that back and get the right kit

Too late, most of the stuff is installed.

 

[Will L.]

Use a mild cleaner IF NEEDED, seals and bearings should have a part number on them.
Too strong of a cleaner can remove them off the seals