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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Just recently I installed the new arp starter bolts on my 96 gmc with the 6.2.What a definite difference after installing these.The gm bolts don’t come close.This is my first time using these on the 6.2 but I have used arp starter bolts some 20yrs ago on my 5.7 diesel which I still have.
 
dieselolds said:
Just recently I installed the new arp starter bolts on my 96 gmc with the 6.2.What a definite difference after installing these.The gm bolts don’t come close.This is my first time using these on the 6.2 but I have used arp starter bolts some 20yrs ago on my 5.7 diesel which I still have.
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M-10 metric or SAE 3/8”?
I was on their site and the metric product wasn’t available. 3/8” will strip threads when trying to torque.
 
Paveltolz said:
M-10 metric or SAE 3/8”?
I was on their site and the metric product wasn’t available. 3/8” will strip threads when trying to torque.
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I ordered mine off Summit Racing. iirc I had to get the ARP part number from another site first since Summit's application catalog isn't that robust.
 
Paveltolz said:
Been a long day driving and trying to stay awake. Gave up two hours from home. Anyway, the correct terminology that escaped me was ‘both the compressor and the turbine sides are supposedly redesigned. I once asked Bill if they just stuffed a wicked wheel in there. He looked hurt. Said they did a different design than a wicked wheel and then redid the turbine too. Haven’t had it apart to check and no longer have anything to compare it with anyway. GM5 and the ‘Super84 (not so much super IMO) they used to market are back on Bill’s shelves. The current owners of Heath Diesel sell a few versions the wicked wheels but, damned if I know which does which for what.
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Paveltolz said:
M-10 metric or SAE 3/8”?
I was on their site and the metric product wasn’t available. 3/8” will strip threads when trying to torque.
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Depends on the block.
My 1989 block was 3/8
 
dieselolds said:
Just recently I installed the new arp starter bolts on my 96 gmc with the 6.2.What a definite difference after installing these.The gm bolts don’t come close.This is my first time using these on the 6.2 but I have used arp starter bolts some 20yrs ago on my 5.7 diesel which I still have.
Click to expand...
Can you describe the “definite difference”? I have never had issues using the actual factory bolts. Seen tons of problems with aftermarket.
 
Word of caution with craftsman warranty now with the new parent company:
If you break one tool of a kit, you have to turn in the whole kit rather than individual tool. And if the kit is missing a piece- no love.

I have seen 2 people go absolutely ape over it in the store so far. One dude just grabbed the whole new kit and left saying “Call the cops and I will hunt you down.” The other guy smashed somewhere in the $20,000 range worth of stuff on his way out carrying his small 18 piece set that was missing a socket.

I spoke to the worker afterwards and he said it happens about once a month that someone wigs out.

I own a lot of craftsman, missing one socket which kills me to have an empty slot, but not sure I want to buy it and support their new system.
 
Will L. said:
Word of caution with craftsman warranty now with the new parent company:
If you break one tool of a kit, you have to turn in the whole kit rather than individual tool. And if the kit is missing a piece- no love.

I have seen 2 people go absolutely ape over it in the store so far. One dude just grabbed the whole new kit and left saying “Call the cops and I will hunt you down.” The other guy smashed somewhere in the $20,000 range worth of stuff on his way out carrying his small 18 piece set that was missing a socket.

I spoke to the worker afterwards and he said it happens about once a month that someone wigs out.

I own a lot of craftsman, missing one socket which kills me to have an empty slot, but not sure I want to buy it and support their new system.
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I hear ya, but it’s just sockets. I have a Craftsman socket wrenches and torque wrenches that they won’t honor warranty on. I need a 1/2” torque wrench for Montana, but they had the Kobalt ones locked up and I did not want to deal. I will never get another digital torque wrench as they don’t last.

I’m not going to go apeshit over some warranty. I’ll just buy another. Damn bolts on the receiver hitch were 18mm and I did not have an 18mm combo wrench in Montana.
 
Yeah- just wanted to make everyone aware their amazing warranty that used to exist is toast with new owners. The additional chrome toys are always nice to add to the selection. Makes things go smoother for sure.
 
Meant to say that I have a Craftsman 1/2” digital torque wrench that broke the ratchet mechanism. It was only a 1 year warranty item. Also have 3/8” Craftsman ratchets that broke the ratchet mechanism. For awhile they’d give you the parts to repair, but no longer.

For Montana I have a 3/8” torque wrench by Husky from Home Depot. It’s been good so far. What is the warranty on the Kobalt brand at Lowe’s? I actually like their stuff and will probably get their 1/2” torque wrench.
 
I'm curious if that warranty policy is store based with needing the complete set rather than the broken item. we no longer have a Craftsman store here in my area so we don't have a place to find out. someone once did tell me that one of the tool truck vendors would warranty them but that was long ago and I can't recall which one it was ether.

I normally just buy my tools from Harbor Freight now unless it's something special I need. I think they are one of the last few that still sell the odd ball tool that no one else makes. Craftsman used to make those too.
 
Will L. said:
Word of caution with craftsman warranty now with the new parent company:
If you break one tool of a kit, you have to turn in the whole kit rather than individual tool. And if the kit is missing a piece- no love.

I have seen 2 people go absolutely ape over it in the store so far. One dude just grabbed the whole new kit and left saying “Call the cops and I will hunt you down.” The other guy smashed somewhere in the $20,000 range worth of stuff on his way out carrying his small 18 piece set that was missing a socket.

I spoke to the worker afterwards and he said it happens about once a month that someone wigs out.

I own a lot of craftsman, missing one socket which kills me to have an empty slot, but not sure I want to buy it and support their new system.
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I usually buy a truck tool in situations like that.

I've about given up on that also.

Now I have to find a go between.

I'm more often buying, what little I buy anymore off eBay or Marketplace.
 
Big T said:
Meant to say that I have a Craftsman 1/2” digital torque wrench that broke the ratchet mechanism. It was only a 1 year warranty item. Also have 3/8” Craftsman ratchets that broke the ratchet mechanism. For awhile they’d give you the parts to repair, but no longer.

For Montana I have a 3/8” torque wrench by Husky from Home Depot. It’s been good so far. What is the warranty on the Kobalt brand at Lowe’s? I actually like their stuff and will probably get their 1/2” torque wrench.
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I'm very protective of my old Craftsman easy clicker ratchets. They'll probably outlast me, since they barely get used anymore.

I never broke one. I only ever used them when I needed the fine teeth.

I did have a bit of a come apart over broken Craftsman tap wrench, or maybe die handle. Early to mid 1970's.
But that was a particular Sears store employee issue.

I broke my Dad's tool. My brother and I went to town. The guy in the tool department was being ignorant about exchanging the tool.
There was quite the scene, for no reason. The store manager ended things quickly.
I never did figure out what was up that floor worker's butt.

I still try to avoid Harbor Freight and buy mostly Made in the USA tools.
I liked back in the day, when HF sold vice grips and some other domestic tools along with the imports
 
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Will L. said:
Can you describe the “definite difference”? I have never had issues using the actual factory bolts. Seen tons of problems with aftermarket.
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They were much tighter fitting going up into the 6.5 starter housing vs the gm bolts.Just felt like a better set of bolts all around.I had the gm starter bolts break off in my 5.7 diesel constantly and after switching to arp starter bolts many years ago I never had a starter bolt failure after that on that particular engine.
 
Like everything else GM now had things made in China. the bolts are like what I call when you make a copy of a key. it's a copy of a copy of a copy. never fits just right but will get you by in a pinch and won't last long ether.
 
I would preferr the other style installer. with this one you posted above there is too much of a chance that you leave it loose and or rotate the rivnut while in the hole as it's compressing.

as for the sealer I wouldn't use any rubber washer as it might cause the insert to protrude further out on the top side making it stick up too much. how hard is it to pull some trim back enough so you can get you hand up into the headliner and oose some RTV on the bottom side along with maybe even putting a nord-lock washer onto the back side before you compress it so once it's compressed it will have more "grip" on the sheet metal. the ridges on the nord lock or ribbed lock washer will grab the sheet metal along with the ribs on the rivnut to give a tight hold.

This is the style tool I like. there is no chance of rotating the rivnut while compressing it.

1720815727734.jpeg
 
dbrannon79 said:
I would preferr the other style installer. with this one you posted above there is too much of a chance that you leave it loose and or rotate the rivnut while in the hole as it's compressing.

as for the sealer I wouldn't use any rubber washer as it might cause the insert to protrude further out on the top side making it stick up too much. how hard is it to pull some trim back enough so you can get you hand up into the headliner and oose some RTV on the bottom side along with maybe even putting a nord-lock washer onto the back side before you compress it so once it's compressed it will have more "grip" on the sheet metal. the ridges on the nord lock or ribbed lock washer will grab the sheet metal along with the ribs on the rivnut to give a tight hold.

This is the style tool I like. there is no chance of rotating the rivnut while compressing it.

View attachment 88636
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Once it’s smashed up to a certain point, it’s not rotating.
 
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