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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

ak diesel driver said:
Unless your boost stays under 5 psi your going to use alot of water.
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Would the benefits be worth installing a small system? mainly for towing. I don't think I would need when empty. Maybe a smaller nozzle like a 2 gph. since it's main purpose would be to help cool things. Cost wise, I found a 1gpm 60psi pump on the jungle site for $25. Nozzles are about $20. all I would need beyond that would be the pressure switch, check valve, toggle, and some 1/4" tubing. I figure at most cost would be about $100.
 
RPM's are 2200-2300 and the pedal is mashed. I had thought about mist for the radiator / cooling stack but got worried about making things worse with corrosion. same concept as mist on an air conditioner outside unit. works great but ruins the aluminum fins.
 
So run it in 3rd and not OD? I mean when I was accelerating from a stop trying to get up the 55, the RPM's would get way up there before each shift. like up in the 3500+ range

I know that fan robs a lot of power but I don't see how I can keep temps low enough to keep the fan off
 
dbrannon79 said:
what about WMO. water mist injection? I have been pondering installing a setup on this truck for a while now. just something simple mainly to cool intake air temps but also to add a minute amount of power. I don't want to go overboard here but I thought maybe this can potentially add a slight bit more power without adding more fuel and more boost.

I was looking at a small single mist nozzle 3-5 gph and a sureflow 12v pump. I have a (can't recall what size) 5 or 10 gallon DEF tank I scavenged from work that will sit perfectly on the side of my tool box. it's been cleaned and washed out so no residual DEF remains. I figure having a pressure switch set to turn on at 5 psi boost and off at the same would work.
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Don’t bother, as this would over complicate things. Not sure you have gotten to the root cause of the problem.
 
If your tranny is stock and the shift tables are stock you are asking for a burnt tranny with that load... the converter and shift points in stock form will kill everything..

Not being able to get up to and keep speed points to a weak motor, keep lugging it and you'll burn it up.... As for what gear to pull in, I'm not the expert with autos, if it was a manual I'd say NO OVERDRIVE.....
 
if it wasn't for the extreme blowby on the 93 black truck, I would see how it would fair towing. it has 4.10 gears with the gear vendors, but also with the TCI TCU it can be programed to change shift points. The blowby scares me and from what I can tell, the engine in it has around 340k miles on it now. Maybe a good candidate for a 350 or 454 gasser swap
 
I see where the guys are saying you are lugging it - but hummers are on the other end of that spectrum with effectively 5:13 gears. Same heat issues on the highway. Wind sail- yup!
Because you have the 180 stat and it’s less than an hour to swap it and $1 worth of silicone- I would throw it in and see. Honestly I don’t expect a difference but won’t hurt anything.

Already running balanced flow system, running the one of the two best fan system options there is, my thoughts are all you can do is try to limit input heat which really works best eliminating the turbo you have for something larger like ATT, hx40, etc. if you don’t need the spool for peak acceleration, use hx40, if you do then go 35/40 hybrid.

I don’t agree with the 350/454 swap option because I owned and used too many. You can modify easy and pour on the power and they will last. But it wasn’t hard to get my 3500 454 under 8mpg. They aren’t horrible ideas just hard to feed.

The wmi and/or the mist onto radiator will help but if you can find a more standard solution it will save some headaches. To test the radiator thing just get some hose to go from windshield washer and fill it with water. Have it pump/spray the radiator and test. If it helps what that tells you is the radiator size and output is killing you. Bigger radiators are hard to beat…. The coated one from Chris is probably your best option there is.

As to selling the two trucks and getting a newer one to replace them- you gotta run the numbers and see if it adds up. Dmax has some things to do frommday one to get best shot at survival. FassLP w/filters, and depending on year things like crank pin kit might apply.
Definitely more power, same mpg (unless you start bumping power), no overheating issues, but repair costs for like items are more expensive.
 
Will L. said:
see where the guys are saying you are lugging it - but hummers are on the other end of that spectrum with effectively 5:13 gears. Same heat issues on the highway. Wind sail- yup!
Because you have the 180 stat and it’s less than an hour to swap it and $1 worth of silicone- I would throw it in and see. Honestly I don’t expect a difference but won’t hurt anything.
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Just finished swapping the thermostat out from a 195 back to the 180. I might need to flush this thing again! I don't think it was that long ago I flushed everything out, pulling the pressurized overflow out getting nasty mud out of it. I've had the plastic tank on one side of the radiator replaced and had it rodded out too. while replacing the thermostat, I pulled the upper hose off and stuck a small hose down into the radiator as far as I could get it. siphoned about 2 1/2 almost 3 gallons of brown rust color coolant out. where does this crap come from!! I have been keeping coolant in it so it won't rust up and get nasty.

I had two gallons of fresh "walmart" brand concentrated green stuff I poured back in along with another almost full gallon of water to top it back off. funny thing is the walmart coolant was a watery piss yellowish green color instead of the normal split pea soup color green I'm used to.
 
Will L. said:
Already running balanced flow system, running the one of the two best fan system options there is, my thoughts are all you can do is try to limit input heat which really works best eliminating the turbo you have for something larger like ATT, hx40, etc. if you don’t need the spool for peak acceleration, use hx40, if you do then go 35/40 hybrid.
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I wish I could afford a 35/40 hybrid

Will L. said:
I don’t agree with the 350/454 swap option because I owned and used too many. You can modify easy and pour on the power and they will last. But it wasn’t hard to get my 3500 454 under 8mpg. They aren’t horrible ideas just hard to feed.
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Yup I know the feeling. going down the freeway with the ability to literally watch the fuel gauge move towards the E!

Will L. said:
The wmi and/or the mist onto radiator will help but if you can find a more standard solution it will save some headaches. To test the radiator thing just get some hose to go from windshield washer and fill it with water. Have it pump/spray the radiator and test. If it helps what that tells you is the radiator size and output is killing you. Bigger radiators are hard to beat…. The coated one from Chris is probably your best option there is.
Click to expand...
I know one that is coated from Chris will make a difference, though I'm not technically overheating. is there a "larger" radiator made that will fit in these trucks? iirc these are 4 core from the factory, I have a spare that fits this truck. there isn't any more room going taller or wider, but with a couple of modified hold down brackets I'm willing to bet a 5 or 6 core rad would fit if one was made!

I'm tempted to try the WMI only because it will help in more than one way. it will cool intake air temps, help lower EGT temps, on top of possibly help clean up carbon and possibly increased bump in power that doesn't need extra boost or fuel. as far as the amount of water I would need to carry, That would depend on how it works. I figured keep it simple and minimize the water use only to help with cooling and leave the other two possibilities as added bonuses rather than expected results.
 
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