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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

welp just took the truck to pickup my son's friend from work and came back. about a 20 minute drive through town cruising at about 30-45 mph. temp stayed about 180ish most of the trip with the AC going right up until I was about 3/4's the way back home. temp rose enough to turn the fan clutch on (200ish) as soon as the fan came on the temp fell quickly back down but as I got closer to the house temps were creeping back up close to 200 again now with a 180 deg stat.

I do have a heat shedding issue just like y'all have said. Possibly trash collecting in the cooling stack between the radiator and the condenser. I guess tomorrow I will be pulling the upper fan shroud and having a look. need to find my long blow gun with a extreme sharp 90 deg on the end I made specifically for blowing radiators and coolers out.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I wish I could afford a 35/40 hybrid


Yup I know the feeling. going down the freeway with the ability to literally watch the fuel gauge move towards the E!


I know one that is coated from Chris will make a difference, though I'm not technically overheating. is there a "larger" radiator made that will fit in these trucks? iirc these are 4 core from the factory, I have a spare that fits this truck. there isn't any more room going taller or wider, but with a couple of modified hold down brackets I'm willing to bet a 5 or 6 core rad would fit if one was made!

I'm tempted to try the WMI only because it will help in more than one way. it will cool intake air temps, help lower EGT temps, on top of possibly help clean up carbon and possibly increased bump in power that doesn't need extra boost or fuel. as far as the amount of water I would need to carry, That would depend on how it works. I figured keep it simple and minimize the water use only to help with cooling and leave the other two possibilities as added bonuses rather than expected results.
Click to expand...
Root cause!
 
Yup- mud makes it worse! Flush with just water until it’s clear. Then add the acid- walmart pool area. Leave the thermostat out through the flushing and acid treatment.. flush with tons of water after the acid. Drive Around with just water in it, no stat. Then flush again.
Remembering to drain the side block plugs a few times Along the way.
Prestone original, green, antifreeze,NO long life stuff.
 
A friend, much younger than I, mechanic for a construction company, He is going to help Me with transplanting new windshields in the 1988 Puick Century and also into the 2000 K3500.
Get that windshield in the K3500 installed then I’m going to proceed at draining, removing and loosening components to pop out the engine from its confartment.
Do a seal up job on it and inspect main webs and etc. and maybe it will be time to install all new bearings and gapless rings. Hoping the pistons will still be comfortable in them bores.
And so just tonight I got one of these a coming.
quadstartuning.com

Engine Lift Plate

Another Quadstar exclusive! We originally made these to use around the shop but they worked so well that we want to share them with you! Constructed of heavy-gauge steel, these are built to use frequently. Simple yet effective. Compatible with 6 bolt 6.5L truck style intake manifolds. All 6...
quadstartuning.com quadstartuning.com
 
What about CLR ? would that work removing the stat flushing with plain water and then adding the CLR with water, driving for a day or two, flush again and?

BTW back when I flushed it before I recall looking for the block drains and only found a flat boss on the block where one could have been but was never casted into the block. this might be where the issue lies since I was not able to flush the block out from the bottom.
 
dbrannon79 said:
What about CLR ? would that work removing the stat flushing with plain water and then adding the CLR with water, driving for a day or two, flush again and?

BTW back when I flushed it before I recall looking for the block drains and only found a flat boss on the block where one could have been but was never casted into the block. this might be where the issue lies since I was not able to flush the block out from the bottom.
Click to expand...
Read the ingredients to CLR. I believe it's also an acid
 
Twisted Steel Performance said:
Phosphate will desolve rust, I don't think it will hurt aluminum but check first... And don't leave it in the system very long, it will eat metal if left too long...
Click to expand...
I went looking online and found that Kleen Strip sold at home depot for around $18 a gallon is anywhere between 10 and 30% phosphoric acid according to the SDS sheet. I've been looking to see what sort of reaction it creates with aluminum but all I can seem to find is that it will eat aluminum oxide but not the aluminum.

The brown colored coolant that came out wasn't that dark nor did I see any particles in it when I dumped the bucket. flowing out the small hose I was using to siphon it out with I could see though it but once the bucket filled up with the about 3 gallons of coolant I could no longer see through it and was brown in color.

I am wondering if because there are no block drains on this block, I did not get all of the crap out when I flushed it before. Wonder if I simply need to flush it again. maybe do it like I should have by pulling the stat, flush till it's clear, close it up and run it with water, get it hot and drain and repeat. then refill with the real green coolant. the coolant I used has that piss yellow color to it and could be also contributing to the brownness I am seeing
 
I will see if I can put it up on ramps tonight and get under there. iirc I found where a flat area was right behind where the motor mount is on the block on both sides. I looked at the 6.2 block I have and there are plugs in that same spot on it.
 
@Will L. Your pics as requested!

I stand corrected. me being blind in one eye and cant see from the other... I found the block drain plugs! they are 1/4" ntp plus with a square inverted hole. Note their location and the blank boss I had thought was where they should have been. the motor mounts would have to be removed from the block in order to remove them! Nope not going there unless I have no other choice LOL

also take note of the condition of the rubber mounts as they were replaced not that long ago.. anchor brand I got off RA.

IMG_5239.jpg
IMG_5241.jpg
 
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