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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

That drain tube set up looks like a quality piece of kit.
As long as the mating surfaces on the turbo and block are free of old RTV and gasket material, one should have a dry passenger side motor.
I’ve learned by sad experience that if you don’t, especially the turbo side…you don’t.
Looking forward to seeing the results.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Looking at the piece that mounts on the block, there is what looks like a smaller plug. I wonder if that can be used to add a drain for something like the provent.
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That is precisely what it is intended for. Get the Pro Vent check valve and you’re good to go. It’s 1/4 NPT. So 1/4 npt to 6AN male fittings and then 6AN to 3/8 hose barb should do it.
 
getting ready to work my 95 truck fairly hard... plans are to pull the new to us 30' travel trailer out to the coast for the weekend. tomorrow after work I plan to pull all the wheels and check bearings and re-pack with grease. check brakes too. I pulled it out from our friends yard where it has been raining and moved it to our daughters house where her concrete driveway is long enough to accommodate both the trailer and my truck.

while I was pulling it I got out on an open road with a decent hill. opened up the throttle a bit and I could hear hissing coming from the engine compartment. I need to check on the turbo hose. I don't have my boost gauge connected since I somehow misplaced it when I replaced the dash. I might try to cobble up another gauge I have just to keep my eye on things during the trip.
 
Pre-Trip checking of tires and bearings is overrated….
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Finished wiring up the brake controller. Biggest hurdle was where and how to tie into the Brake Light wire since the You Tube video’s truck wasn’t quite like mine. Ended up splicing in at the main harness for the turnsignal and all under the steering column. Tight quarters.
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Then the best project of them all. Trying to figure out how to save some room under the back seat for the tire changing kit and make it more accessible over the OEM set up.
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This is what my wife came up with for me, the 6.5 and Father’s Day all in one. ($1 is for scale).
“Lovingly Made in the USA by Maggie W”
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No more rattles, lifting the rear seat to unbolt the ‘too big for what it does’ factory storage unit. Easy to pack around etc.

Pockets for OEM and Aftermarket Lug Sockets, Lug Security Socket and 5/8 Allen to speed up lowering/raising the tire. Bigger Pocket for spare lug nuts in case of an ‘O Fudge’ moment. All the tools have their respective outline for ease of replacement when I start to lose my memory…more of my memory TBH.
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Sometimes, you just have to go to the spousal unit for project solutions.
The Jack is on its own tucked out of the way in a corner. Poor Jack,
 
Well after having to replace wheel bearings and seals in all 4 wheels on the travel trailer we pulled it with my 95 all the way out to the coast for the weekend. Made it back safely too :)

cobbled up a boost gauge on it before leaving and all seemed good. boost would peak at about 12 and then back off like I programmed the PCM to do. not much smoke from the tail pipe under heavy acceleration, but I have to say 55-60 mph was about all she would do and boost stayed up around 7-9 psi the whole time.

That electro-viscous fan clutch stayed engaged the entire trip! coolant temps stayed right at 200 - 205 ish. there was a couple of times the temp got almost up to 210. I have a 195 degree thermostat installed. I am curious if I need to go back with the 180 deg and see if that will help.

before taking off down the road temps stay around 190 on the gauge like it normally does even driving empty, but as soon as I put the trailer on it and hit the go pedal, temps would climb up there and stay. the e-fan clutch is set to come on at 200 and hardly ever comes on driving empty.

I also started wondering if the increase in temps while towing might be from the HO water pump pushing the t-stat block-off plate open with all the whooshing of the water it pumps.

overall the trip went without a hitch even though it felt as if I was pulling a wind sail behind me LOL

I need to check my fuel mileage too. the trip home I filled up and only used slightly more than 1/2 tank for about a 150 mile trip.
 
one other thought I just had on the temps is I never installed a EGT gauge. I'm wondering what those were and if they got near the danger zone since I am running mostly stock but having that diamond eye 4 inch exhaust. Not sure what I can do if the EGT is up there though. at least without spending a bunch lol.
 
dbrannon79 said:
one other thought I just had on the temps is I never installed a EGT gauge. I'm wondering what those were and if they got near the danger zone since I am running mostly stock but having that diamond eye 4 inch exhaust. Not sure what I can do if the EGT is up there though. at least without spending a bunch lol.
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I was all concerned whenever the EGT gauge would get over 1200 degrees, post turbo temps.
I since have moved the temp sensor to pre turbo and have yet not hauled a load to get the feel for what the EGTs will be running.
@War Wagon is the person that eased My mind on that.
He had been runnin in excess of 1500 degrees with no issues.
 
MrMarty51 said:
I was all concerned whenever the EGT gauge would get over 1200 degrees, post turbo temps.
I since have moved the temp sensor to pre turbo and have yet not hauled a load to get the feel for what the EGTs will be running.
@War Wagon is the person that eased My mind on that.
He had been runnin in excess of 1500 degrees with no issues.
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Got to do all the cooling mods on these trucks. Not sure there’s any benefit cooling wise to using an electric fan. Better off using a Duramax fan on the later model HO water pump with spin-on fan clutch.
 
Big T said:
Got to do all the cooling mods on these trucks. Not sure there’s any benefit cooling wise to using an electric fan. Better off using a Duramax fan on the later model HO water pump with spin-on fan clutch.
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That's what I'm running. the GM HO pump, D-max fan, and the electro-viscous fan clutch that @ak diesel driver came up with.

this truck has always had a heating / cooling issue (not overheating) living in south Texas where winters are not very harsh, running a 180 deg stat only gets me luke warm air from the heater. running a 195 deg makes the heater work quite well. but my issue is with the higher temp stat, loading up the engine will make temps climb up quickly to very close to 210 and make me nervous having to constantly watch the gauge.

every other truck (gassers) I have had living in this area running a 180 stat has always given me a satisfactory heater in the winter and allowed the engine to stay a little cooler in the summer.

other than this, I would like to tweak things a bit to get slightly more power from the engine, mainly to maintain speed pulling, but it's truly not bad.
 
dbrannon79 said:
That's what I'm running. the GM HO pump, D-max fan, and the electro-viscous fan clutch that @ak diesel driver came up with.

this truck has always had a heating / cooling issue (not overheating) living in south Texas where winters are not very harsh, running a 180 deg stat only gets me luke warm air from the heater. running a 195 deg makes the heater work quite well. but my issue is with the higher temp stat, loading up the engine will make temps climb up quickly to very close to 210 and make me nervous having to constantly watch the gauge.

every other truck (gassers) I have had living in this area running a 180 stat has always given me a satisfactory heater in the winter and allowed the engine to stay a little cooler in the summer.

other than this, I would like to tweak things a bit to get slightly more power from the engine, mainly to maintain speed pulling, but it's truly not bad.
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I would change to the 180 stat. The ‘94 we have has a 195 stat and it runs warm. The ‘99 I forget what stat, but it’s hard to get over 185.
 
what about WMO. water mist injection? I have been pondering installing a setup on this truck for a while now. just something simple mainly to cool intake air temps but also to add a minute amount of power. I don't want to go overboard here but I thought maybe this can potentially add a slight bit more power without adding more fuel and more boost.

I was looking at a small single mist nozzle 3-5 gph and a sureflow 12v pump. I have a (can't recall what size) 5 or 10 gallon DEF tank I scavenged from work that will sit perfectly on the side of my tool box. it's been cleaned and washed out so no residual DEF remains. I figure having a pressure switch set to turn on at 5 psi boost and off at the same would work.
 
ak diesel driver said:
If your fan never turned off than you were maxxing out your cooling system. Lower Stat only helps to take longer to get up to temp, which can be beneficial in some cases. I'd be looking at one of Chris's coated radiators.
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My fan was running constantly never turned off the entire trip. the controller is set to come on at just a hair over 200 degrees. the only time it turned off was when I was coasting through the small towns at about 35 mph. as soon as I hit the pedal to get back up to speed the temp went up and fan came on!

you can imagine the roar at 55-60 mph for 3 hours on the road!! I have wondered about my radiator not doing too well. it's still factory
 
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