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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Will L. said:
Guess that means we know they don’t do systems check after rebuilding. Nothing major for that trans but I would be leery of them for automatic trans work.

The difference of diy and assuming everything works vs paying a pro and them testing everything after rebuilding is supposed to mean they test it.
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They only work on manual transmissions and transfer cases.
 
I would call the trans shop and mention this / show them the pictures. the missing bolt in the second pic I wonder if not a bolt but some kind of adjustment rod like on some auto trans where an adjustment rod / threaded stud with lock nut on the exterior of the case.
 
I bet that lower bolt is a locking bolt for something in the front area of the trans. doesn't "bolt" anything down, but locks something internally from moving, sliding or rotating. not unless it's a case drain plug. hard to tell exactly it's position in the case from the photo.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I bet that lower bolt is a locking bolt for something in the front area of the trans. doesn't "bolt" anything down, but locks something internally from moving, sliding or rotating. not unless it's a case drain plug. hard to tell exactly it's position in the case from the photo.
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Yeah there is another drain. I wonder if this can be installed and lock down the part now that it is in the vehicle?
 
So I visited the transmission shop this am. My speed sensor and bolt were in a box that got picked up by a driver for disposal. They made good and got me the parts. I quickly installed and filled the transmission with Honda Manual Transmission oil and topped off the coolant. Started the engine and ran it for awhile. No longer has the disappearing sound when I depress the clutch pedal (change in sound is electric fan coming on):


Then as I was backing the car up, I stalled it from lack of recent use. Went to restart it and the Immobilizer System is preventing it from starting. It turns over, but no start.

I google searched for reset solutions and the primary one is to unlock, then lock the driver’s door 2x using the ignition key. Only problem, I had to change the ignition lock, so I got a new keys in the fob which was coded to the new ignition, but the key will not fit into the door. So that option is off the table and the other options have not worked.

I have an independent Honda mechanic whom I can talk to. I went to elementary school with. Just frustrated right now.
 
Big T said:
So I visited the transmission shop this am. My speed sensor and bolt were in a box that got picked up by a driver for disposal. They made good and got me the parts. I quickly installed and filled the transmission with Honda Manual Transmission oil and topped off the coolant. Started the engine and ran it for awhile. No longer has the disappearing sound when I depress the clutch pedal (change in sound is electric fan coming on):


Then as I was backing the car up, I stalled it from lack of recent use. Went to restart it and the Immobilizer System is preventing it from starting. It turns over, but no start.

I google searched for reset solutions and the primary one is to unlock, then lock the driver’s door 2x using the ignition key. Only problem, I had to change the ignition lock, so I got a new keys in the fob which was coded to the new ignition, but the key will not fit into the door. So that option is off the table and the other options have not worked.

I have an independent Honda mechanic whom I can talk to. I went to elementary school with. Just frustrated right now.
Click to expand...
any chance a lock smith can make a key for the door? will that work or does the door also read the chip embedded in the key too?

if a dummy key is made, maybe putting the ignition key there with the newly made dummy door key will do the trick.
 
dbrannon79 said:
any chance a lock smith can make a key for the door? will that work or does the door also read the chip embedded in the key too?

if a dummy key is made, maybe putting the ignition key there with the newly made dummy door key will do the trick.
Click to expand...
I’m working through trouble shooting suggestions from Internet forums. Seems to be a common problem, though mine is complicated by the different keys.
 
I did additional tests with a multimeter on the plug to the Immobilizer and I’m getting the appropriated voltage and ohm readings. Either it simply needs to be reprogrammed or it needs a new Immobilizer which would also require programming all at the dealer. So I need to schedule an appointment and then get AAA to tow it there and have my wife drive me back home.
 
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