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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Yup. Suckfest.

‘Member that comment I had about the shop verifying stuff after building…
Let them give you the new sensor, and shims, and have them get you the instructions on proper shimming since they were supposed to have done it all.

Now also is the question about draining the oil to get out pieces parts of the sensor
 
Will L. said:
Yup. Suckfest.

‘Member that comment I had about the shop verifying stuff after building…
Let them give you the new sensor, and shims, and have them get you the instructions on proper shimming since they were supposed to have done it all.

Now also is the question about draining the oil to get out pieces parts of the sensor
Click to expand...
It came out intact, there are no pieces in transmission.
 
I used to have 3’ amber light strips under the doors on the rockers to give a nice, clear heads up to others that I was either turning or changing lanes. The product stopped functioning so I removed them some time ago but, left the residue of adhesive behind. Needed to remove that adhesive prior to reinstalling an upgraded (ideally) light strip and while inspecting what needed doing, I realized the coated rockers were showing some surface rust. Cab corners are good, it was just the seamed edge areas needing attention plus the protective rock guard surfaces were pretty pitted after 23 years.
Drill driven wire wheel removed everything nicely. 100 grit DA work took care of the wire marks. POR-15 over the remaining rust, Etching primer over the bare metal, 3M undercoat spray to restore the rubberized stuff and overcoated with white [close enough in color since a new paint job is in the plans for next spring/summer]. Only complicating factor was temperature as we finally got our first snow and the garage I’m blessed with is hovering at 50 degrees. The rubberized undercoat had an advertised drying time of 10 min. Yeah, try 24 hrs. Tried to warm the surface with work lights and that’s helped things cure a little quicker and while it took a lot more time, the job is done.

Changing the oil earlier in the week I noticed that the block heater chord wasn’t connected…Good thing its in the garage, the temps aren’t below freezing in the garage, the motor is no longer an extremely low compression engine now that the new heads and valves are correct and the new batteries spin the motor extremely fast. Add a power master and all I’ll need is solar panels to keep the batteries topped off to drive around town. Joke. So, getting under the motor to reconnect things is a new priority. New turn signal light bars will have to wait a while longer.
 
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Block heater connection went back together without too many contortions. Braided oil cooler lines were the only obstacle.
Tried to get an alignment done but one upper ball joint is going south. I got the upper control arms from a strip yard when removing the 3” lift units. One had a ball joint that wasn’t as good as the other I guess. Sigh…there’s always something else.
 
Something else:
Oil Cooler unit is leaking. Got home and there was oil dripping off the bumper and core support. Huh?
Radiator was wet behind the cooler too.
IMG_8540.JPG I cleaned everything up as best I could with rags, brake cleaner and let the engine idle for about 20 min.
Of course, nothing leaked or even weeped. Thought it might be one of the 45* swivel fittings.
IMG_8529.JPG

This morning I took the truck to the self-squirt-em-up car wash and finished cleaning with a heavy layer of Oven Cleaner and a good rinse. Still nothing but, by the time I got home I had evidence from above the 1/2" Female connection on the cooler.
IMG_8541.JPG

Bought this set from Lubrication Specialists in 2007 and it has always had oil residue on that side. Out with the old, completely, and in with a new kit.
Ordered a new kit from Quadstar last night as a precaution and, it has saved me a day of waiting.

Headlight update. Even though it is well past the date to return for refund, the seller has offered a full refund after I posted my not so positive review on Amazon. Funny how that works. Generous of them though and I told them I'd be willing to take a shot at an updated version in the future...maybe.:rolleyes:
 
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Paveltolz said:
Something else:
Oil Cooler unit is leaking. Got home and there was oil dripping off the bumper and core support. Huh?
Radiator was wet behind the cooler too.
View attachment 84947 I cleaned everything up as best I could with rags, brake cleaner and let the engine idle for about 20 min.
Of course, nothing leaked or even weeped. Thought it might be one of the 45* swivel fittings.
View attachment 84948

This morning I took the truck to the self-squirt-em-up car wash and finished cleaning with a heavy layer of Oven Cleaner and a good rinse. Still nothing but, by the time I got home I had evidence from above the 1/2" Female connection on the cooler.
View attachment 84946

Bought this set from Lubrication Specialists in 2007 and it has always had oil residue on that side. Out with the old, completely, and in with a new kit.
Ordered a new kit from Quadstar last night as a precaution and, it has saved me a day of waiting.

Headlight update. Even though it is well past the date to return for refund, the seller has offered a full refund after I posted my not so positive review on Amazon. Funny how that works. Generous of them though and I told them I'd be willing to take a shot at an updated version in the future...maybe.:rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Refresh us on the headlights.
Are the glass lenses headlights I have in my 1994 truck still available?
 
Paveltolz said:
Something else:
Oil Cooler unit is leaking. Got home and there was oil dripping off the bumper and core support. Huh?
Radiator was wet behind the cooler too.
View attachment 84947 I cleaned everything up as best I could with rags, brake cleaner and let the engine idle for about 20 min.
Of course, nothing leaked or even weeped. Thought it might be one of the 45* swivel fittings.
View attachment 84948

This morning I took the truck to the self-squirt-em-up car wash and finished cleaning with a heavy layer of Oven Cleaner and a good rinse. Still nothing but, by the time I got home I had evidence from above the 1/2" Female connection on the cooler.
View attachment 84946

Bought this set from Lubrication Specialists in 2007 and it has always had oil residue on that side. Out with the old, completely, and in with a new kit.
Ordered a new kit from Quadstar last night as a precaution and, it has saved me a day of waiting.

Headlight update. Even though it is well past the date to return for refund, the seller has offered a full refund after I posted my not so positive review on Amazon. Funny how that works. Generous of them though and I told them I'd be willing to take a shot at an updated version in the future...maybe.:rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Ogur!
 
if you need to drive while waiting on the new cooler, you can get you a union and join the two hoses but drive cautiously. good catch while it's in the slow leak stage and it didn't just burst on you. that could have been an "Oh-Shi#" moment !!
 
Those 6x8" sealed beams shown are the Cheyenne trim level in '94. The Silverado trim level had the side by side individual sealed beams.

You used to be able to buy aftermarket replacements that used the replaceable H1 or H3 halogen capsules (as well as for the dual and quad sized round sealed beams) that could now easily be substituted with HID H1/H3 or LED H1/3 units for even higher lumen output than the 55W halogen capsule.
 
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