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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Today on eBay coming from Texas I purchased a good used NP243C transfer case for my 96 gmc.It has the electric push button 4wd.My current transfer case has very high mileage (630,000KM) and is leaking from various places.

So rather than try to repair/reseal my own I’m just going to swap it out for a good used unit.The replacement has 170,000 miles on it which is much less than mine and since I don’t do much driving with the truck this used replacement transfer case should be perfect.

I was considering buying a reman from Amazon but the total was up around $2500.I just decided to pass on it.The eBay transfer case was $500 U.S and was removed from a 98 K2500.
 
dieselolds said:
Today on eBay coming from Texas I purchased a good used NP243C transfer case for my 96 gmc.It has the electric push button 4wd.My current transfer case has very high mileage (630,000KM) and is leaking from various places.

So rather than try to repair/reseal my own I’m just going to swap it out for a good used unit.The replacement has 170,000 miles on it which is much less than mine and since I don’t do much driving with the truck this used replacement transfer case should be perfect.

I was considering buying a reman from Amazon but the total was up around $2500.I just decided to pass on it.The eBay transfer case was $500 U.S and was removed from a 98 K2500.
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‘98 K2500 Suburban would be a NVG 246, though not as certain for a truck:IMG_0907.png

Concern with the NVG 246 is pump rub which eventually wears through the rear case half which is made of zinc. I went with a reman for my ‘99 K2500 Suburban and they used an aluminum rear case half to address the pump rub issue.
 
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dieselolds said:
I compared both 96 and 98 model years to rockauto and it’s the same part number for the truck and suburban with electric push button 4wd.Rockauto calls it a NV243.I have heard of the 246 like you mentioned.I heard there was a issue with the housing wearing through at some point.
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I got my reman from a shop in South Carolina for $1,100 including shipping. It came with a 2 year, 70K mile warranty, but that does not cover the push button shifting issues that I’m still experiencing.
 
Thanks for sharing Big T.Mine is definitely the NP243 and the one I have on the way is too.I have some pennzoil transmission fluid from Napa and a new felpro gasket for it with front input seal and rear seal.I figure I may as well change those before I install it.

I’ll have to pick up a complete front axle as well with 3.73 ratio as mine has the same amount of km’s as the transfer case.It’s not giving me any trouble but it’s very high mileage.The engine and transmission have been replaced and are not the original.
 
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dieselolds said:
Thanks for sharing Big T.Mine is definitely the NP243 and the one I have on the way is too.I have some pennzoil transmission fluid from Napa and a new felpro gasket for it with front input seal and rear seal.I figure I may as well change those before I install it.

I’ll have to pick up a complete front axle as well with 3.73 ratio as mine has the same amount of km’s as the transfer case.It’s not giving me any trouble but it’s very high mileage.The engine and transmission have been replaced and are not the original.
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I have a 4.10 front diff. My ‘99 is a 3.73. Gave some thought to swapping in a GMT 800 14 bolt full floater rear axle on the ‘99 to get rear disc brakes, but can only find them in 4.10. Thought I might swap in the 4.10 front diff to make it work, which would make the 3.73 available, but the recent replacement of the rear brake shoes and drums has provided more than ample stopping.
 
The full floater would be nice indeed.My rear is just the 14 bolt corporate differential with 9.5” ring gear.I put new acdelco backing plates on it several years ago.Has the G80 gov bomb that is supposedly known for trouble.
 
dieselolds said:
The full floater would be nice indeed.My rear is just the 14 bolt corporate differential with 9.5” ring gear.I put new acdelco backing plates on it several years ago.Has the G80 gov bomb that is supposedly known for trouble.
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I have a fully prepped 14 bolt corporate w/ disc brakes in 4.10 ready to go in my ‘94 K2500. Since it is a nice to have project, a number of necessity projects have jumped the line in front of it. For example, next up is pulling the manual transmission from my Honda Accord for a rebuild. That will address my work commute (3 miles) car to the train station and free me up to swap in the 14 bolt corporate.
 
I didn't know the G80 was trouble! That's what's in my 14 bolt full floater from factory, I opted to put that back in when I had the 3.73's installed. I've had it happen to me twice since where I would be going down the road near my house (bumpy patched pavement) come to a stop and then try to make a turn and hear something go clank and one tire tries to slip. the first time it happened when I was turning into my driveway and I didn't know what was happening. listened to it and threw it into reverse slowly backing straight out of the driveway and heard a loud clank and the truck jerked.

Lord don't tell me I'm rolling on a cast iron grenade back there!
 
Took the truck for a drive last night. Oops. Headlights are way too LOW. When my helper and I buttoned things up we hadn’t actually adjusted at 25’ and I errored on the side of safety. Tonight we properly aimed them. UT DMV has a guide and if the headlight’s brightest portion (low beam) is more than 4” above or below the centerline. I did a double take cause 4” above would certainly blind pilots! Anyway, IAW the guideline, I did the “drive as close to the wall as possible (6’) with lowbeams on to mark the center of the projected beams. Higher tape markedwith Sharpie on the 2” painter’s tape. Measured down 4” which is the top edge of the lower painters tape.
IMG_8458.jpeg

For those ready to pounce on the illumination above the tape marks, this is the view of the lights at the height of a driver in a VW Golf.
IMG_8459.jpeg
 
Paveltolz said:
Took the truck for a drive last night. Oops. Headlights are way too LOW. When my helper and I buttoned things up we hadn’t actually adjusted at 25’ and I errored on the side of safety. Tonight we properly aimed them. UT DMV has a guide and if the headlight’s brightest portion (low beam) is more than 4” above or below the centerline. I did a double take cause 4” above would certainly blind pilots! Anyway, IAW the guideline, I did the “drive as close to the wall as possible (6’) with lowbeams on to mark the center of the projected beams. Higher tape markedwith Sharpie on the 2” painter’s tape. Measured down 4” which is the top edge of the lower painters tape.
View attachment 84355

For those ready to pounce on the illumination above the tape marks, this is the view of the lights at the height of a driver in a VW Golf.
View attachment 84356
Click to expand...
Foul! I see light escaping out the top.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I didn't know the G80 was trouble! That's what's in my 14 bolt full floater from factory, I opted to put that back in when I had the 3.73's installed. I've had it happen to me twice since where I would be going down the road near my house (bumpy patched pavement) come to a stop and then try to make a turn and hear something go clank and one tire tries to slip. the first time it happened when I was turning into my driveway and I didn't know what was happening. listened to it and threw it into reverse slowly backing straight out of the driveway and heard a loud clank and the truck jerked.

Lord don't tell me I'm rolling on a cast iron grenade back there!
Click to expand...
My G80 has a massive amount of miles on it and I don’t have any issue with it.It’s has been taken care of pretty well since I’ve owned the truck with a couple of drain intervals performed.

I’ve read they are troublesome but I don’t always believe what I read or hear.I’m sure yours will be fine too👍
 
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