• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Will do. I know the PO had added some additional grounds in that area. some other wiring too which I have since removed, but I will be careful.

I know a while back I ended up replacing the PCM due to getting constant boost solenoid codes and when I was using GMTDscan the software could not make the solenoid function. swapping in a PCM I had scored from a pick a part yard (got it just because I found it out there) and the software on the PC could function the solenoid plus the code didn't come back!

now I'm curious if my old PCM is ether still good or that ground not connected and possibly arking on other wires could have taken the old PCM out!
 
Well I spent a little more time looking for this "popping" noise in my steering today. I had my son work the steering wheel while I laid under the front end looking and listening. I found it's sweet spot with the steering wheel turned maybe a 1/4 turn to the right. when the engine is running you can hear the pop and feel it in the steering wheel. no binding is felt at all. while laying underneath and the engine running, turning the wheel back n fourth the sound is more prevalent but with my hand on the gear box and other joints I cannot feel anything. what's odd is both the return lines going and coming from the P/S cooler are jumping when the pop occurs. also I can plainly feel the pop with my hand on the pressure line going into the gear box, again with my hand on the gear box housing in various places I cannot feel anything.

I took a short video clip of this with the engine off because I noticed that the end cap on the gear box was moving in and out as my son worked the wheel! the "pop" sound also seems more like a click in the audio, but it's not as prevalent as it is with the engine running. I am curious if this is caused by a restriction on one of the hoses or lines. or wondering if the gear box is failing. What say you all? any suggestions as to where to start aiming the parts cannon at??

 
dbrannon79 said:
Well I spent a little more time looking for this "popping" noise in my steering today. I had my son work the steering wheel while I laid under the front end looking and listening. I found it's sweet spot with the steering wheel turned maybe a 1/4 turn to the right. when the engine is running you can hear the pop and feel it in the steering wheel. no binding is felt at all. while laying underneath and the engine running, turning the wheel back n fourth the sound is more prevalent but with my hand on the gear box and other joints I cannot feel anything. what's odd is both the return lines going and coming from the P/S cooler are jumping when the pop occurs. also I can plainly feel the pop with my hand on the pressure line going into the gear box, again with my hand on the gear box housing in various places I cannot feel anything.

I took a short video clip of this with the engine off because I noticed that the end cap on the gear box was moving in and out as my son worked the wheel! the "pop" sound also seems more like a click in the audio, but it's not as prevalent as it is with the engine running. I am curious if this is caused by a restriction on one of the hoses or lines. or wondering if the gear box is failing. What say you all? any suggestions as to where to start aiming the parts cannon at??

Click to expand...
That would be more pronounced when power steering fluid is under pressure. I’m no expert, but that cap should not be moving. I think your steering box is worn out.

It does look like a steering box possessed. Throw new box at it.
 
I concur. Your steering gear box is literally ready to explode. There should be NO external movement in anything but the Pitman arm (steering sector) shaft!

What you're experiencing is, with a 95% probability, that of the worm shaft and balls being worn to the point that as the worm shaft rotates it binds up and then "pops" loose. You also have considerable wear of, or the race has popped out due to the high load of the worm shaft banging against it, of the Torrington bearing that takes the end load of the worm shaft, and that extra shaft movement is seen in the end cap movement - which will eventually blow/pop out and result in a catastrophic loss of fluid and failure of both your steering AND braking systems. Catastrophic as in your steering will mechanically fail to work as its innards seize up in whatever position at the time (perhaps in the middle of a turn) it's in and you will lose all power assist of your brakes.

Also, don't go cheap on a "reman" unit from places like AutoZone or other budget parts chains - their jobbers who provide the "remans" are suspect at best for the quality of the work they do and are known for high rates of failure out of the box or shortly afterwards.
 
This is exactly what I was thinking. this is the same box that I rebuild last summer and during our trip to the coast right after I had rebuilt it, it would (for reasons unknown) dump the fluid emptying everything in the parking lot while we were out there! at the time I couldn't afford a wrecker so I stopped and loaded up with P/S fluid and hit the road home. Now this one is the weirdest... the whole trip home and to this day is never did it again and still has the same fluid in the pump! I have been driving it all this time.

Now that we are getting close to this years planned trip, things start happening again LOL

Ok rant over. I had a feeling and was thinking about those little BB balls in the worm gear was what I was hearing trying to lock up and then pop loose. the pop noise just started happening this week. Maybe it was me listening more closely with the thought process of "prepping" for the trip lol.

I have two more days left of work this week and plan to drive carefully the 6 miles to and back home. sadly the Jetta is down again for one of the pulley's locking up and shredding the belt. That happened Monday night while sitting at Sonic getting burgers lol we hauled butt home not having the alternator at night time! I took that as a warning since I still have not made time to inspect / replace the timing belt on it since I know it's way over due too! Jetta is parked until that can be done.

Geeze both vehicles warn me in the worst way both at the same time LOL seems like they are tag teaming on me! (One dog gets some love, the other gets jealous)

Thanks guys, I had this gut feeling but needed confirmation.
 
Flushed the transmission on my Dad’s ‘96 C1500 (gasser), jacked up the front end to pull wheels and check brakes, seems the front wheel bearings are a little sloppy... can I just retorque em for now? I replaced them a few years ago so they aren’t that old. They aren’t making noise yet, just a bit wiggly. What say you?
 
I'd pop them out, clean and inspect. look for discoloration on the rollers. new bearings and grease seals are fairly cheap insurance. Nowadays with all the chineesium out there, even known brands are failing sooner than they used to.
 
J_dude said:
Flushed the transmission on my Dad’s ‘96 C1500 (gasser), jacked up the front end to pull wheels and check brakes, seems the front wheel bearings are a little sloppy... can I just retorque em for now? I replaced them a few years ago so they aren’t that old. They aren’t making noise yet, just a bit wiggly. What say you?
Click to expand...
Remove the bearings and wipe them clean. Look for discoloration. Press new grease through the bearing, they do not need to be washed clean before pressing fresh grease through them.
After reassemblimg them back onto the spindle, tighten the nut very tight while rotating the hub both directions, several times. Back off the nut until there is wiggle between the hub and the spindle, then, finger tight with the castle nut.
If the cotter key slot aligns with the spindles hole then insert the cotter key and bend them over.
If the cotter key does not align with the castle nut then “ back off the castle nut “ just enough so that the slot in the nut aligns with the hole in the spindle, then bend the cotter key.
 
Anyone have any recommendation on a steering gear? I have heard some not so good Juju about the red top ones over the years. while shopping online I found a brand that looks like it's been redesigned a bit. BBB industries. there shown on RA and a few other places, I don't want to cheap out on one but then again I can't really afford spending another $500 on the truck right now. Gonna have to shop around and see what the best route to go is.

for now I have a plan to buy me some time. I have another gear that I once had on the truck but it has a smaller diameter piston. I had swapped it due to the sector shaft play and not knowing if it was the cause of my stiffer than normal feeling on the steering, but is was not leaking.

I think I will get it up on the bench this weekend flush it out by hand feeding it fluid and turning the shaft, then following the same procedure I did on the one I rebuilt, I will re-set the preload on both the steering and sector shafts. run this one till I can get a new unit. one other option I have available too is the one that is installed on by buddy's box truck. It's a 2003 express van 3500. he offered it to me. I looked at it and it seems to be the same. only thing is I can't tell if the steering shaft is splines or has a different type shaft. I won't know that till I go to remove it, this one also has the larger piston (end cap) like mine has.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Anyone have any recommendation on a steering gear? I have heard some not so good Juju about the red top ones over the years. while shopping online I found a brand that looks like it's been redesigned a bit. BBB industries. there shown on RA and a few other places, I don't want to cheap out on one but then again I can't really afford spending another $500 on the truck right now. Gonna have to shop around and see what the best route to go is.

for now I have a plan to buy me some time. I have another gear that I once had on the truck but it has a smaller diameter piston. I had swapped it due to the sector shaft play and not knowing if it was the cause of my stiffer than normal feeling on the steering, but is was not leaking.

I think I will get it up on the bench this weekend flush it out by hand feeding it fluid and turning the shaft, then following the same procedure I did on the one I rebuilt, I will re-set the preload on both the steering and sector shafts. run this one till I can get a new unit. one other option I have available too is the one that is installed on by buddy's box truck. It's a 2003 express van 3500. he offered it to me. I looked at it and it seems to be the same. only thing is I can't tell if the steering shaft is splines or has a different type shaft. I won't know that till I go to remove it, this one also has the larger piston (end cap) like mine has.
Click to expand...
I have red top boxes in both Suburbans and they have been fine. Did have one leak on initial install and they replaced.
 
Big T said:
I have red top boxes in both Suburbans and they have been fine. Did have one leak on initial install and they replaced.
Click to expand...
Where is the best place to purchase a red top? does Summit sell them? one place I don't want to buy from is RA only because if I have to warranty it. not wanting to deal with that side if things.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Anyone have any recommendation on a steering gear? I have heard some not so good Juju about the red top ones over the years. while shopping online I found a brand that looks like it's been redesigned a bit. BBB industries. there shown on RA and a few other places, I don't want to cheap out on one but then again I can't really afford spending another $500 on the truck right now. Gonna have to shop around and see what the best route to go is.

for now I have a plan to buy me some time. I have another gear that I once had on the truck but it has a smaller diameter piston. I had swapped it due to the sector shaft play and not knowing if it was the cause of my stiffer than normal feeling on the steering, but is was not leaking.

I think I will get it up on the bench this weekend flush it out by hand feeding it fluid and turning the shaft, then following the same procedure I did on the one I rebuilt, I will re-set the preload on both the steering and sector shafts. run this one till I can get a new unit. one other option I have available too is the one that is installed on by buddy's box truck. It's a 2003 express van 3500. he offered it to me. I looked at it and it seems to be the same. only thing is I can't tell if the steering shaft is splines or has a different type shaft. I won't know that till I go to remove it, this one also has the larger piston (end cap) like mine has.
Click to expand...

I bought a reman steering gear from Napa last winter for my 96 gmc but wish I hadn’t.Quite a bit of steering wheel movement before the truck actually goes in the direction you want it.The pitman arm was replaced but it was a poor unit right out of the box.I’m pretty sure my original steering gear was better than this.
 
Big T said:
I have red top boxes in both Suburbans and they have been fine. Did have one leak on initial install and they replaced.
Click to expand...

“Red Head” got results on google search.

Looked up the Red Head and their product line is for 97-99. But, you got one on the 94 Burb so I’m really hoping there’s no real difference as I’ve got this upgrade on my to do list.
 
Last edited:
I found their site. they show them for right at $400 + $200 core charge. I am wondering if there are reman units or new. I also looked at the difference between the 3500 and 2500 trucks. they show two options for the 2500 trucks. they show the same part number at the 3500 with 3 turns lock to lock and for the 2500 they show an optional 4 turn lock to lock one.

what scares me is if these units are rebuilt vs new for the cost. also not sure if a 4 turn unit would be better for a heavier truck
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top