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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Most likely not, as mercury had been banned in most everything (like human use thermometers) that could somehow contact people by then. Most likely a steel ball in a cage that rolls and makes contact across two terminals to ground the lamp and light it.
 
Big T said:
I’m going Marty on oil leaks…Redid the valve cover seals on the 2005 Honda Accord to address a persistent and annoying leak at the passenger side rear corner. Went with the FelPro gasket kit vs the Honda I used before which did not work and cost 4x more. I put a small bead of Honda bond all along the outside sealing surface of the cover and let it sit for 30 minutes before installing it. Now I’m letting it cure until tomorrow.
Click to expand...
How’d that work out ?
My oil leaks is cured except the small tell tale leak at the front of the pan.
Now that I know that I could pull a couple of bolts and lower the front differential and the pan will then come out, I guess I could put the truck back in the shed and fix that seep too.
I’ll wait until tomorrow and see how I feel about it then.
 
MrMarty51 said:
How’d that work out ?
My oil leaks is cured except the small tell tale leak at the front of the pan.
Now that I know that I could pull a couple of bolts and lower the front differential and the pan will then come out, I guess I could put the truck back in the shed and fix that seep too.
I’ll wait until tomorrow and see how I feel about it then.
Click to expand...
Patience! I’m letting it cure for a day.
 
Took the truck out in town today, a trip to wally world. Boy you can tell that spare gear box is too small for the truck! the steering is a little stiffer than with the other box, not terrible though. I can still turn the wheel one handed, but when trying to get into a parking spot it struggles to make tight turns. seems like I run out of power assist steering power right before the wheel reaches the stops as if the pump can't keep up! you can hear the pump like it's under load too. I guess it will have to do till next month when I can shell out the extra pennies for a new box. No leaks though, I check the parking lot as I left the store and when I got home too. This box is made for a 1/2 ton or light duty 3/4 truck lol.

on a side note, if I go with a red top box, should I spend the extra to have them port it for an assist cylinder for future use? not too sure what the advantage would be.
 
Well this afternoon I ended up getting a wild hair up my arse!! lol I decided to tear into the gear box I just removed from the truck. I checked everything carefully as I began disassembly. first rotating the steering shaft back and fourth several times. after a couple of rotations I started to feel the "catch" in it and could hear the "BB"'s snap when it popped and what not.

upon removing the sector shaft I inspected the needle bearing and pitman seal. I noticed the second seal ( thinner one right under the snap-ring) had a bulge in it right where the snap ring eyes are. the lower thicker seal was fine. this explains the dumping effect it had right after I rebuilt it and drove out to the coast! It must have settled and sealed up since because it never did it again.

Now I began to remove the retainer and the little BB's. as I slowly removed them I paid close attention to each BB, making sure they all alternated from white to black indicating the sizing. I also inspected each one for scoring and wear. all of them seem to be ok. Now after I though I had them all out and the worm gear no longer moved the piston, I immediately noticed I had 12 black BB's and only 11 white BB's !!! "Oh Sh!t" it ate one!!

I then removed the end cap noticing again how clean the innards were (Pic below end cab has not been wiped down nor had the sector shaft) Slid out the piston and looked for any remnants of the missing BB. There is was laying down in the end of the piston where the big nut capping the piston is. got it out and it also looked fine.

Here are my observations on this rebuild I did last summer: somehow one of the BB's got bast the retainer and mad it's way up in the end of the piston, it's placement in there apparently didn't harm anything, BUT that left two of the BB's of the same size together creating the POP. the two would touch in one area and bind then pop loose just as @Husker6.5 described.

I am wondering if I can put this thing back together and it would be good to go again. I looked at what could have allowed the BB to get past the retainer... I can only see one of two ways. #1. it went the wrong way while I initially put it together. or #2. I put the retainer on backwards. looking at the retainer one side had a "dip" that sticks down into the hole that's supposed to keep the BB's from going past, but allow then to roll up into the retainer.

Anyone's thoughts on this?

Steering Box.jpg
 
Started re-assembling the gear box this afternoon. got all the BB's back in place and made sure they went in the right order and were within the retainer. haven't put the sector shaft in yet, only the piston. worked the worm gear back and fourth and it seems to be moving without any issues.

picked up a new pitman shaft seal kit for it too. plan to install that and get it all back together maybe tomorrow. then work it on the bench plenty to make sure it's good. then Friday maybe attempt to put back on the truck and see what it does.

If that doesn't work, I did verify the gear box on the dodge is the same one with the large size piston. if it comes down to it, I can swap them out until I can afford to order a new box. not sure how it got the larger style one, I do recall having to replace it some years back. it's only a 1/2 ton truck so I would imagine I could put the other "spare" that had the smaller piston on the dodge and it would be fine. right now with that one on my 1 ton, the steering wheel is just too stiff and I'm not liking how it drives.
 
Got the steering gear box back together this evening. installed the new seal, also while I was at it the steering shaft splines were a little buggered up. I had the hammer and pry the coupler off when I pulled it plus I was using a pair of vice grips on it to rotate it while working with it. I used my small triangle file and fixed up the splines. used an old shaft to test fit the splines.

so far with me working it lock to lock holding the gear box in different orientations making sure the BB's stay in place also while feeling for any stiffness or catch pop action. it all seems to be good and smooth. Maybe it was me that caused this whole ordeal by not watching what I was doing on the first go round!

Ordered a Delco lower radiator hose and new fan controller that should arrive tomorrow sometime. Plan it to install the second chance rebuild by yours truly gear box and the hose, fresh coolant and then move on to the fan controller. Hoping after this I am hopeful this rig will be ready for our road trip.
 
Lost the Lo beams on the ‘94, so I did some trouble shooting. Installed a new ring terminal on the ground for the driver’s side relay to connect to battery. Still no Lo, but did restore the running lights while Lo was on. Then found both 20 amp fuses for the All 4 on Hi relays were burnt. Installed new fuses and everything works. Gof one new headlight housing installed and will do the other tomorrow.

IMG_4622.jpegIMG_4623.jpegIMG_4624.jpeg
 
MrMarty51 said:
How’d that work out ?
My oil leaks is cured except the small tell tale leak at the front of the pan.
Now that I know that I could pull a couple of bolts and lower the front differential and the pan will then come out, I guess I could put the truck back in the shed and fix that seep too.
I’ll wait until tomorrow and see how I feel about it then.
Click to expand...
Failed. After putting about 25 miles on the Honda, found a spot of oil in the garage. I’ll go through it. Thinking it’s down to a cover plate on the timing cover, or the timing cover itself. Either way, both are decent jobs. The leak is slow and I do not put a lot of miles on the car, so I’m going to punt for now. Many more important things on my plate.
 
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