Will L.
Well-Known Member
I still say someone could make some cast aluminum valve covers and make a descent chunk of money at it.
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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....
- Thread starter deejaaa
- Start date
jrsavoie
Recruit
Maybe with an oring instead of a gasket?
Seems to work pretty good on the Mitsubishis.
Then I'm assuming you would have to do something with the heads for the oring to seal on that side
jrsavoie
Recruit
I've been dealing with them since way before the internet.
Their hydraulic service used to be much better.
Whoever I used to talk to back in the day, knew his stuff.
You could tell him what you were doing and he could tell you what to buy.
Helped me out several times.
J_dude
Well-Known Member
“Billet” would sell better probably, that’s the latest trend in aftermarket parts
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
aren't the sealing surfaces on the heads machined flat on our engines? I would have thought the rubber gaskets would be a better design than the cork.
the issue with the aluminum or billet rocker covers is the design can't change much due to the injector lines. I really wish the lines were made factory to wrap around the covers so that they can be pulled without removing the lines.
the issue with the aluminum or billet rocker covers is the design can't change much due to the injector lines. I really wish the lines were made factory to wrap around the covers so that they can be pulled without removing the lines.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Well I have developed a power steering leak once again... I noticed it dripping while I had my truck sitting at idle. crawled under there to see what it was and see the gear box saturated from top to bottom in fluid. hoses are dry so I am thinking the top that covers the pitman shaft is leaking from the gasket area. that was the only gasket that wasn't included in the kit when I rebuilt it and had to re-use it.
Boy I sure hate to have to pull that box off again. Not fun! However, my steering is starting to get sloppier and sloppier. Can't really afford to take it into a shop but i might just have to since I have been through replacing all the components, some multiple times. the idler arm has been replaced 4 times now using Delco parts but it for whatever reason keeps eating them for lunch.
Boy I sure hate to have to pull that box off again. Not fun! However, my steering is starting to get sloppier and sloppier. Can't really afford to take it into a shop but i might just have to since I have been through replacing all the components, some multiple times. the idler arm has been replaced 4 times now using Delco parts but it for whatever reason keeps eating them for lunch.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Pulled the rocker shafts.
Got the grade 8, 1/4” X 3/4” bolts and the thick washers. Used grade 5 steel self lock nuts.
Wedged a screw driver between the nut and the inside of the rocker arm tube.
I read about this someplace on the innernet, probably in here but I dont remember.
It most certainly is a lot easier to clean off the gasket goop from the back of the cylinder heads with them rockers out of the way.
Got the grade 8, 1/4” X 3/4” bolts and the thick washers. Used grade 5 steel self lock nuts.
Wedged a screw driver between the nut and the inside of the rocker arm tube.
I read about this someplace on the innernet, probably in here but I dont remember.
It most certainly is a lot easier to clean off the gasket goop from the back of the cylinder heads with them rockers out of the way.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Did you have to shave the washers on the sides to fit them in the rockers? I might do this the next time I take mine apart Been thinking about investing into a cherry picker to pull the engine so I can do my oil pan gasket sometime
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
No, but there were two different size thick washers in the hardware store.
The ones that I chose to use are 1/4” X .750 OD. IIRC the other 1/4” size washer was a little larger and would not fit between the sides of the rocker arm.
One thing that I did not think to look at was the metric size thich washers, if maybe they may have been a little smaller OD and also slightly smaller ID so that they would maybe have been a more precise size on the bolt.
These warshers do tend to drift ever so slightly one side or the other.
What I do see, within the arms of the rockers is, there is some slight wear to one side of the arms so I guess being an exact fit Is not such a big deal.
jrsavoie
Recruit
I've frequently used metric washers for different applications. Sometimes on a fastener website you can find all of the specs.
Would serrated head bolts work to eliminate the washers?
Did you use nylocks?
I was curious about nylocks being oil resistant if that's what you used.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Didnt think of the serrated, washer head, bolts. In a 1/4” size bolt the washer head might be too small.
There also might be metric equivalents that could work as well or better.
I shied away from the nylok nuts. That plasticated stuff them buttons is made of deteriorates with heat, oil and time. I didnt want to take a chance with that happening with the nyloks.
Also, there are two styles of self locking nuts, that I am aware of.
The one style has what looks like a rectangular dent midway between top and bottom of the flats.
The other style has what appears to be somewhat of a pinch on one end of the nut.
The ones with the pinch on the end of the nut is the ones I used. Less resistance until the lock is obtained.
I did have to use four of the ones with the punch mark midway of the flats. I used those on the end of the shaft rockers.
Two different sizes of screw drivers for lodging between the nut and the rocker tube wall. Used the smaller one to get the nut most the way engaged then the larger one to finish the tightening sequence.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Here ya go:
Replacing Rocker Buttons
My rocker buttons were all holding up just fine, but with nearly 300K miles on this engine, I just couldn’t bring myself to put the rocker shafts back on with the nylon buttons still in place. I did some searching to see what other options were out there. Just replacing the buttons with bolts...
www.thetruckstop.us
DIY SS Riveted Rocker Retainers (With Pics and PN's)
The stock 6.5 rocker is held in place by a nylon button. I had one break on me, now I'm replacing the piston rings in cylinder 6 because of it. No way I'm putting nylon in again. I could have gone with expensive HS roller rockers, or the bolt method, but I thought I'd try something similar to...
www.thetruckstop.us
J_dude
Well-Known Member
Technically there’s at least four common types of locking nuts that I know of. NyLock, Flange-Lock, “Cone” Lock (the ones that are pinched slightly on two or three sides), and then the ones you mentioned with the little rectangular dent, which seem to be a variation of the cone lock, but the pinch is in the middle of the flat sides, rather than on the top. Not sure the actual name for those.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
I’ll pour in an extra can of Liqui-Moly to help decrease the friction between the rocker arm and the warsher.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Okay, got the rocker arm covers tapped back to flat.
Installed the allen studs that came with the rocker cover girdle kit. Attempted to set the rocker cover over the head and those studs on the left hand side. I found that removing the two front studs that the cover sets down onto the head much easily. I will practice that move several more times before installing the covers.
I guess applying the glue to the head surface/rocker cover contact area, would be a lot less messy than applying it to the cover then handling the cover and placing it in place atop of the head.
But now, I am in a dilemma mode.
I have had the right stuff fail, intake manifold rail ends on a 1987 Buick, 2.8 V6. Even let it set over night before torquing it down. So, I now do not hold much faith in that right stuff.
I have used Honda Bond on a lot of oil exposed items, including Triumph motorcycle engines with vertically split engine cases and never had a leak from them.
I just dont know how well that Honda Bond would hold applying it as heavy as required for the rocker covers on these engines.
I also have on order a set of cork rocker cover gaskets. Thinking a nice smudge of that Honda Bond to each side of the cork gasket, set them over the studs, set the RC over the head and lightly tap on it like what Leroy shows, then let it set for a day or so and then set the extra gasket over the cover, the girdle and then fasten it all to torque.
Any thoughts on using something like that Honda Bond ?
Any thoughts on using cork gaskets with sealer on both sides between the head and the covers.
I am also tempted, long as I have sprung in this deep to the CC, to just spend the extra hundred, plus mailing, and get that set of reinforced, reusable gaskets from Leroy.
Installed the allen studs that came with the rocker cover girdle kit. Attempted to set the rocker cover over the head and those studs on the left hand side. I found that removing the two front studs that the cover sets down onto the head much easily. I will practice that move several more times before installing the covers.
I guess applying the glue to the head surface/rocker cover contact area, would be a lot less messy than applying it to the cover then handling the cover and placing it in place atop of the head.
But now, I am in a dilemma mode.
I have had the right stuff fail, intake manifold rail ends on a 1987 Buick, 2.8 V6. Even let it set over night before torquing it down. So, I now do not hold much faith in that right stuff.
I have used Honda Bond on a lot of oil exposed items, including Triumph motorcycle engines with vertically split engine cases and never had a leak from them.
I just dont know how well that Honda Bond would hold applying it as heavy as required for the rocker covers on these engines.
I also have on order a set of cork rocker cover gaskets. Thinking a nice smudge of that Honda Bond to each side of the cork gasket, set them over the studs, set the RC over the head and lightly tap on it like what Leroy shows, then let it set for a day or so and then set the extra gasket over the cover, the girdle and then fasten it all to torque.
Any thoughts on using something like that Honda Bond ?
Any thoughts on using cork gaskets with sealer on both sides between the head and the covers.
I am also tempted, long as I have sprung in this deep to the CC, to just spend the extra hundred, plus mailing, and get that set of reinforced, reusable gaskets from Leroy.
Big T
Well-Known Member
Honda bond is good stuff. That is what they recommended to seal the VTEC solenoid on my Honda Accord.
Saw Leroy’s video showing cork gaskets on both sides of the valve cover. Talked to him after the girdle kit arrived and he said you can install one under, but don’t need to. I have yet to install it. He suggested not pulling the valve cover and simply installing the girdle over it to see if it stops the leak. I just haven’t gotten around to it due to the cold Montana winter and the fact I was troubleshooting the electrical on the transfer case which is more of a priority.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
I do have a partial tube of Honda Bond. I’ll go to the Marine/Honda dealer Monday and get a fresh tube.
The tube I have is a couple years old and still flows from the tube as if it was right off the shelf.
Those rocker cover cork/rubber gaskets will be here on Monday so I’ll get them smeared with the bond, set to the heads, the covers dropped on with the girdles and then let it set for 24 hours before tightening the nuts.
I’ll watch the video once more to double check how Leroy says to install the covers.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I suppose heat and idling is the #1 killer on the starter! last night I went to pick up my son from work. sat there idling for about 20 minutes while he finished up. then headed off the Wataburger for dinner. while in the drive though I had to kill the engine so they could hear me in the loudspeaker, made my order and then went to start the truck... click....click...vroom!! this was the first time I have had the starter do this on this truck. I figured it was due to all the idling and it most likely heat up the starter pretty good. That or it's trying to warn me that it's time....
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Was that a solid sort of a clunk noise, or, was it a series of clicks while the key is held to the start position ?
One solid click/clunk would be starter failure.
Series of click click click is a battery low on voltage or else a poor connection between batteries and starter.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
it was a solid clunk when I turned the key. did it twice, once for the first two tries then it cranked over like normal. I could hear the Bendix hit but nothing else.