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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Started on rear brakes on the 2014 4Runner after arriving at our Montana home. Encountered problems loading the pads into the calipers and ended up breaking off half the friction material on one pad. The tabs on the pad just would not go in on the piston side of the caliper. The calipers are Raybestos remans. Probably should have ground material off the tabs on the pads.

I have new pads ordered at the local Napa which opens at 10:00 am.
 
@Big T
Nope!! Full stop! Post pictures, preferably video. You should never have to grind away material to make it fit. Something is wrong and needs correction.

I once had a car that I installed some aftermarket pads on that had little rivets in a slightly out of position place. It destroyed both calipers.

If you try to grind away pad thickness you will not get it truly square to the backing plate without using a milling machine. This will force the pad at an angle and will side load the piston of the caliper. At best you wear away more of the pad having less stopping capacity until it is all flat again. At worst the sideload of the piston will score the bore and you get to buy new calipers, or need to panic stop before the pads is even and use your bumper to complete the stop.
 
Sounds like you got the wrong pads. Bad packaging? Just did the rear pads and rotors on Thing3's 2013 VW Jetta. Bracket bolts are the 'triple square' type. Torqued to about 1000lbs it seems. Used a breaker bar and floor jack to use the car's weight to break em loose. Confines are too tight to get the impact gun to work on the lowers. Rust on the bolt threads. Any who. Three trips to auto parts store to get the: Triple square tool; exchange for the right rotors and exchange for the right pads...not my car, not my $$$ and I got time with a grandson who likes to 'help' again.
 
I was a Mac Tools distributor when vw came out with he triple square.
Before it was understood and started getting made by everyone, I sure sold a lot of compact impact rated fastener removing kits… and warrantied a lot of Torx stuff to the same hunch guys and a couple gals.
I’m still waiting for regular fasteners to be crazy shaped like the wheel locks…
 
Big T said:
Started on rear brakes on the 2014 4Runner after arriving at our Montana home. Encountered problems loading the pads into the calipers and ended up breaking off half the friction material on one pad. The tabs on the pad just would not go in on the piston side of the caliper. The calipers are Raybestos remans. Probably should have ground material off the tabs on the pads.

I have new pads ordered at the local Napa which opens at 10:00 am.
Click to expand...
Not a tough job to install new seals into the old calipers.
Thats My preferred method then new pin kits into those.
Just and O-Ring and a dirt seal to the outside is all thats in them things.
Then a person is always assured that they at least have a caliper that fits.
YUP, with Will L on this. If left as is bad things could happen.
 
I got one set of pads loaded into the calipers. Should not have been doing this after 12 hours of travel by air and car from SoCal.

Calipers came with spring clips as did the pads. I went back and forth with the clips to see which would work. Went back to the caliper clips this am and got a set of pads loaded. Doesn’t help as I only have 3 pads from that set. I’ll bring picking up a set of pads from Napa in 1/2 hour. I’ll try to return the set with the broken pad to RockAuto.
 
Drove the diesel truck to church today.
That fuel pressure sending unit next to the IP is acting up again.
Guess I’ll next remove the sending unit wire from the toggle switch and wire that sending unit direct to the gauge, then I’ll be able to determine if it is the sending unit or the toggle switch causing the gauge to go wonky.
Just not right at this moment. I need a nap. 😹😹😹
 
MrMarty51 said:
Drove the diesel truck to church today.
That fuel pressure sending unit next to the IP is acting up again.
Guess I’ll next remove the sending unit wire from the toggle switch and wire that sending unit direct to the gauge, then I’ll be able to determine if it is the sending unit or the toggle switch causing the gauge to go wonky.
Just not right at this moment. I need a nap. 😹😹😹
Click to expand...
Does it have a snubber?
 
jrsavoie said:
Does it have a snubber?
Click to expand...
No.
The sending unit at the AD pump functions just fine.
This sending unit is post FFM AND I didnt think there should be so much fuctuation between the FFM and the IP.
I already replaced this sending unit once and this one seemed to be working nice and steady at the gauge for a while.
After I get the Triumph finished I’ll try bypassing the toggle switch with a hard wire to the gauge and if that fixes the fluctuating gauge then I’ll try a new switch.
If it dont then I’ll get out the mechanical gauge and plumb it up to the windshield wipers then take the truck for a drive. See what that does.
Although, at one time on my way home, the front sender had the gauge reading near 15 PSI, I didnt think to flip to the back unit and see what it was reading back there. Although that sending unit has been right on with no fluctuation whatever.
I could switch the sending units around and see what they do but would have to pull the upper intake to get enough room to remove that sender and get the other screwed into the fitting. Very little room on that one.
 
MrMarty51 said:
No.
The sending unit at the AD pump functions just fine.
This sending unit is post FFM AND I didnt think there should be so much fuctuation between the FFM and the IP.
I already replaced this sending unit once and this one seemed to be working nice and steady at the gauge for a while.
After I get the Triumph finished I’ll try bypassing the toggle switch with a hard wire to the gauge and if that fixes the fluctuating gauge then I’ll try a new switch.
If it dont then I’ll get out the mechanical gauge and plumb it up to the windshield wipers then take the truck for a drive. See what that does.
Although, at one time on my way home, the front sender had the gauge reading near 15 PSI, I didnt think to flip to the back unit and see what it was reading back there. Although that sending unit has been right on with no fluctuation whatever.
I could switch the sending units around and see what they do but would have to pull the upper intake to get enough room to remove that sender and get the other screwed into the fitting. Very little room on that one.
Click to expand...
Maybe try swapping sending units out and see if the wonkyness follows it.
 
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