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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Last night I attempted to get the driver side lower control arm removed on my 96 Chevy.Everything is off at this point.Had no trouble getting the lower bolts out of the bushings.

I used a Milwaukee reciprocating saw to slice down through the control arm in the torsion bar area in an attempt to split it but the blade would only cut down so far and not cut any further so I’m thinking the part that would not cut must be tempered or case hardened where the torsion bar enters.

I used Diablo cutting blades with lots of spray lube to keep the blade from overheating.It was pretty easy cutting down through the control arm until a certain point.Before throwing out the control arms I’ll just have to press out the new ball joints I have in place.

I’ll have to use a grinder with the thin cut off disc tomorrow to get down a little deeper and then i should be able to hammer the control arm off.I’ll post some pictures of how it looks when i finally get it off.
I used a grinder with cut off disc. It will do the job. There is no going back on this.

The stamped steel lower control arms (LCA) get rusted on the torsion bars. The forged LCAs never rust on the torsion bars and are easy to get off.
 
I used a grinder with cut off disc. It will do the job. There is no going back on this.

The stamped steel lower control arms (LCA) get rusted on the torsion bars. The forged LCAs never rust on the torsion bars and are easy to get off.
Once these control arms are split and off the truck they are going to the scrap heap.Brand new moog and mevotech arms are on the way.I don’t see any holes from rust upon the passenger side control arm but I’m getting rid of that one as well.

I’m thinking in the next little while I’ll most likely buy another pair of lower control arms for my other 96 gmc truck.Doesnt hurt to have a couple control arms for standby purposes.
 
Once these control arms are split and off the truck they are going to the scrap heap.Brand new moog and mevotech arms are on the way.I don’t see any holes from rust upon the passenger side control arm but I’m getting rid of that one as well.

I’m thinking in the next little while I’ll most likely buy another pair of lower control arms for my other 96 gmc truck.Doesnt hurt to have a couple control arms for standby purposes.
I have a spare set of forged LCAs from a K2500 Suburban. I will have them ready with poly bushings and Moog ball joints, so the next time will be quick.
 
I have a spare set of forged LCAs from a K2500 Suburban. I will have them ready with poly bushings and Moog ball joints, so the next time will be quick.
That’s definitely a great idea indeed.At this point I was thinking of giving the new arms a good shot of fluid film inside before I mount them upon the truck.I have a pretty good undercoating gun I use which should help.
 
Speaking of fluid film, I saw something on one of the youtube videos coating a frame. can't remember what it was called but it was a rattle can spray that went on like spray paint but turned to wax when dry. might have to go back and see what it was, but supposed to coat and protect metal from rust.
 
Speaking of fluid film, I saw something on one of the youtube videos coating a frame. can't remember what it was called but it was a rattle can spray that went on like spray paint but turned to wax when dry. might have to go back and see what it was, but supposed to coat and protect metal from rust.
Rust is certainly a big thing where I am here in Canada.I dont use my trucks during the winter because of the road salt,etc but I still like to rust proof everything if I can.
 
This morning I did manage to get the lower control arm off without issue after getting the grinder with thin cutting disc to get down a little deeper on my 96 Chevy.It still took about 15-20 smacks with a sledgehammer after it was split with the grinder but it’s out of there now.Just waiting on the replacement to arrive.

The grinding disc you see here in the pictures is what I plan to use to clean up the hex section of the torsion bar before the new control arm is inserted into place.Just to remove rust and any irregularities.
 

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This morning I did manage to get the lower control arm off without issue after getting the grinder with thin cutting disc to get down a little deeper on my 96 Chevy.It still took about 15-20 smacks with a sledgehammer after it was split with the grinder but it’s out of there now.Just waiting on the replacement to arrive.

The grinding disc you see here in the pictures is what I plan to use to clean up the hex section of the torsion bar before the new control arm is inserted into place.Just to remove rust and any irregularities.
I would just wire brush or flap disc the torsion bar, then go Marty on it with the anti seize.
 
So while the headline was being installed, I noticed a diesel leak from the ‘94. It was dripping off the crossover pipe. I noted that I did not have this puddle in my driveway where the vehicle is pointed slightly downhill (in the pic it was uphill). Based on this, I suspect a leak somewhere in the engine valley.

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Of course I did neither, but I have the forged LCAs and the trucks mostly live in California. The stamped steel LCAa were a bear to get off the ‘94.
I’ve seen the forged arms on eBay a few years ago while browsing.Would have been nice if I got them but I’m satisfied with the stamped steel version.When this truck is back on the road it’ll be just a cruiser on the highway.It won’t get a whole lot of use.
 
So while the headline was being installed, I noticed a diesel leak from the ‘94. It was dripping off the crossover pipe. I noted that I did not have this puddle in my driveway where the vehicle is pointed slightly downhill (in the pic it was uphill). Based on this, I suspect a leak somewhere in the engine valley.

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I don’t see many leaks from the injection pumps on these.Most times a problem with the fuel manager.
 
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