dieselolds
Well-Known Member
That’s a nice looking tank![Thumbs up :thumbsup: 👍](https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f44d.png)
![Thumbs up :thumbsup: đź‘Ť](https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f44d.png)
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AK is right, check the carrier if equipped.I will most likely need to replace my driveline u-joints soon. yesterday leaving work with the windows down I could hear a faint squeak squeak at slow speeds. what is recommended now a days. greasable, non-greasable, or brands?
Just like the wife. Might be able to service both at the same timeAK is right, check the carrier if equipped.
Do the prybar test on the ujoints.
Grease-able ujoints last longer PROVIDING your maintenance is good.
For normal use, I prefer non grease-able. In rough conditions like going under water, super dirty like frequent off roading.
My 2001 suburban was a HD 4wd. I crossed a couple streams was about half way up the doors, always on dirt roads, sand dunes several times. It had non grease-able and when the rig was sold at just over 200,000 miles it had 1 ujoint that needed to be replaced within the next 10,000 miles.
But something off roading all the time or getting the ujoints hot like a long drive and then crossing water will draw the water inside the ujoints- then you have to grease them very soon after or they will fail -
Or getting grease-able into the sand - they will get sand in there.
so grease is better ONLY if you get home from the trip and service them right away.
A couple days ago I changed the oil and filter on my 96 gmc with the 6.2.I used the T6 5W40 with Napa platinum filter.I ordered some rotella T6 15W40 synthetic from Amazon to have when the warmer weather comes by again later on as I can’t get the 15W40 where I am but 5W40 is readily available.Anybody use the T6 15W40 formulation?Changed the oil on the old girl today. I normally try to change it at around 3k miles even though I run synthetic. But this time I ended up overshooting that by 2k. she's got 296,049 on here today just under 4k to go before hitting 300k. I looked at the old oil filter (I write the date and mileage on install) noticed here last change was back in March with 291,500 miles! 7 months ago. at my normal rate I should be hitting 300k around February, a celebration will be in order for the 300k LOL
I also switched back to Mobil synthetic (was using Rotella T6) now that you can find it on the shelves, plus at $20 a gallons vs Rotella at $30 a gallon that saved me about $20!
Running her out to 5k on a change, I didn't see any ill effects, though she's got a decent leak on the valve covers I need to address before old man winter arrives.
I’ve just used the torch and cut the cross out altogether.The cups always came out pretty easy after that.Yeah, if you got one, I don't see why not. I always used a bench vise and a socket to press the cup out/in.
I've used the big ball joint pressSo what is the prybar test? the carrier bearing was replaced a year or two ago, but I have never touched the u-joints. not sure if they are factory units but they are the non-grease-able ones on there now. I replaced the carrier due to the inner rubber was gone.
the other side of this, what's the consensus on needing a press or can I just do them with the old hammer in the driveway?
I always greased every oil change. 3-5,000 miles. In the 1990's I started adding bypass filters and going to 10 - 20,000 mile oil changes.Ya'll would laugh at my tiny 3" bench vice LOL. I will probably go pick up a c clamp from harbor freight when I do them.
I suppose I will go with the grease-able ones since I do try to keep up with maintenance. maybe grease it all on every oil change or something since I normally get two oil changes per year. that will just add a couple more things to do on the list of a PM. along with my plan to re-do the upper and lower control arm bushings with urethane or even something more stout that has rotational movement vs the rubber that likes to rip and tare with too much travel.