What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

[J_dude]

Hmm... rear wheel steer Chevy?

I got a laugh for this but I’m serious, they made those, remember?
I can’t see the vid so I’m just going off what I see in the pic, not sure that one is factory though? I mean obviously it would have to be modified to be used like that but that’s the generation when they made the (short lived) rear wheel steer option available.

 

[Will L.]

Sad because I, like most people was afraid it would fail on the hiway and get me killed. So they couldn’t get the sales.
Turns out they are insanely safe and drive great.
Now I want to modify my hummer for it- it uses identical parts front and rear so gets done on occasion. Just too much $ so far.

 

[dbrannon79]

idk if it was a factory rear steer, but it sure was looking like it needed a serious alignment done lol

 

[Big T]

Sad because I, like most people was afraid it would fail on the hiway and get me killed. So they couldn’t get the sales.
Turns out they are insanely safe and drive great.
Now I want to modify my hummer for it- it uses identical parts front and rear so gets done on occasion. Just too much $ so far.

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[Paveltolz]

Restored functionality to the 4x4 Actuator Circuit. The aftermarket Electric Actuator& harness I swapped in years ago. stopped working before taking the truck up for the engine work.
Back in April I did some diagnostics and there was no power to the 'Key On' Spare Power Source I'd tapped in to on the Convenience Center (F3) and connecting to the Hot At All Times source (F3) didn't solve anything either. So I was contemplating getting rid of the Electrical set up and go back to OEM Thermal Unit.
Spent today going over the schematics and noticed something. The 4x4 Fuse (#24) in the Instrument Panel fuse center was popped and, funny thing, that's the one that sends 12 volts to the Spare Power Source F3 at the Convenience Center.
DOH!

"Captain, Power has been restored" and I now have 4x4 again. Anyone want a Thermal Actuator NIB?

 

[Big T]

Restored functionality to the 4x4 Actuator Circuit. The aftermarket Electric Actuator& harness I swapped in years ago. stopped working before taking the truck up for the engine work.
Back in April I did some diagnostics and there was no power to the 'Key On' Spare Power Source I'd tapped in to on the Convenience Center (F3) and connecting to the Hot At All Times source (F3) didn't solve anything either. So I was contemplating getting rid of the Electrical set up and go back to OEM Thermal Unit.
Spent today going over the schematics and noticed something. The 4x4 Fuse (#24) in the Instrument Panel fuse center was popped and, funny thing, that's the one that sends 12 volts to the Spare Power Source F3 at the Convenience Center.
DOH!

"Captain, Power has been restored" and I now have 4x4 again. Anyone want a Thermal Actuator NIB?

Fingers crossed on solving my push button 4wd issues. I left it with my local mechanic in Stevensville who’s much better than I am at auto electrical issues. He confirmed the 4wd actuator was locking up the front axle and it was going into 4wd. However, he says there is a sensor in the actuator which tells the rest of the system that the front axle is locked and this was not working. I had ordered and put in an actuator by Standard Motor Parts which was manufactured in Taiwan. This time I ordered a Genuine GM actuator and it will go in tomorrow. Hopefully, this solves 4Lo and AWD problems.

 

[dieselolds]

A few days ago I ordered 4 Napa tie rods with adjustment sleeves for my 96 gmc with the 6.2.It’s their FLEET line which I find is better quality than their proformer line of front end parts.The proformer appears to be a cheaper version.I have one tie rod on the truck right now that won’t accept any grease no matter what I do with it.

I also installed a new Delphi idler arm bracket with Napa fleet brand idler arm two weeks ago.

 

[MrMarty51]

A few days ago I ordered 4 Napa tie rods with adjustment sleeves for my 96 gmc with the 6.2.It’s their FLEET line which I find is better quality than their proformer line of front end parts.The proformer appears to be a cheaper version.I have one tie rod on the truck right now that won’t accept any grease no matter what I do with it.

I also installed a new Delphi idler arm bracket with Napa fleet brand idler arm two weeks ago.

That tie rod is an old one, or, a new fleet service unit ?

 

[dieselolds]

That tie rod is an old one, or, a new fleet service unit ?

It was tie rods I put on my truck some 7yrs ago from eBay when I bought a front end kit for my truck.Might have been some cheaper brand maybe.Not really sure.

 

[dieselolds]

I’ve had one new Napa proformer pitman arm that would accept grease either.No matter what the grease wouldn’t go into the joint.

 

[Big T]

Finished the clutch replacement job on my Honda Accord:

 

[Paveltolz]

Tried replacing the incandescent bulbs in the Instiment panel (speedometer, tach, trip odo., etc. No bueno. The old bulbs don’t want to come out of the sockets without a fight. Tried one and the new bulb sits very loose in the old socket AND it isn’t any brighter than the old one.
NEXT?
Drove to see my new granddaughter born this morning. A much brighter end to the day.

 

[jrsavoie]

Tried replacing the incandescent bulbs in the Instiment panel (speedometer, tach, trip odo., etc. No bueno. The old bulbs don’t want to come out of the sockets without a fight. Tried one and the new bulb sits very loose in the old socket AND it isn’t any brighter than the old one.
NEXT?
Drove to see my new granddaughter born this morning. A much brighter end to the day.

Had the bulb issue several years ago. Do they make an LED replacement bulb now?

I've had issues with LED longevity.

Congratulations on the new addition

 

[dbrannon79]

Congrats!

I got LED's off the jungle site. some of the bulbs are glued into the sockets, at least on mine that was the case. I ended up going out to the pick a part yard to scavenge a hand full of bulb sockets that weren't glued to the bulbs then ordered a mess of 194 LED's to install.

 

[Paveltolz]

Dashboard lighting (for our 6.5’s).
$850 option is the Dakota replacement dash. Not that desperate.
Ordered 21 from SuperbrightLED for my truck and a few for my son’s car. My dash needed 8ea #194 and 11ea #74s. I also ordered 6 #74s for the HVAC controller (two yellow ones for the A/C & Recirc. button). Went with cool white 6000k for the bluer light vs a blue bulb. Sure hope these little turds dim!

Will look at the Jungle site for future stuff like the little socket bulbs for headlight switches etc.

 

[Husker6.5]

Only LEDs specified as dimmable will work with the dashlight dimmer (or any dimmer, such as a house light dimmer switch if 120VAC LED lightbulbs). If an LED's voltage range is listed as 9V-16V, it doesn't mean it starts out dim and gets brighter as the voltage inceases, it means that 9V is its " turn on" voltage at near maximum light output and that 16V is where the LED will burn out - hence it is ideal for a nominally 12V automotive system that runs between 10.8V-14.2V depending on various conditions/factors - for near-constant light output.

It's not my project, but I'd test out those LEDs installed into the panels to see if they dim BEFORE reassembling the dash, HVAC contol head, etc and THEN finding out that they don't dim.

Note: Some LEDs that aren't specifically marked as dimmable actually sort of are, over a limited range of dimness, such as 75%-100% brightness - as opposed to actually dimmable ones that will go 10%-100% brightness range.

 

[dbrannon79]

Dashboard lighting (for our 6.5’s).
$850 option is the Dakota replacement dash. Not that desperate.
Ordered 21 from SuperbrightLED for my truck and a few for my son’s car. My dash needed 8ea #194 and 11ea #74s. I also ordered 6 #74s for the HVAC controller (two yellow ones for the A/C & Recirc. button). Went with cool white 6000k for the bluer light vs a blue bulb. Sure hope these little turds dim!

Will look at the Jungle site for future stuff like the little socket bulbs for headlight switches etc.

what's this talk about a Dakota dashboard! LOL I know your talking about the digital dash thing. But the thought sparked me to look at some random pics of a Dodge Dakota dash layout.... interestingly it's funny that just looking at the pics online, the shape and layout of just about the whole dash can be made to fit in our GMT400's without a whole lot of modifications. maybe even the seats and other items too!

Ya I know I'm wishing too much LOL.

 

[dieselolds]

In the next day or so I’m heading to the machine shop to drop off my 87 6.2 diesel block,crank and rods.I’ve had this engine about 13 years with about 400KM on it.It was very reliable but tough to start in cold weather unless plugged in.It was burning some oil but not a whole lot so I figured it would be a good idea to go through it anyway.

I plan a full rebuild on it and have arp ford pinto studs for the inner main cap bolt holes and the DSG stud girdle kit with arp studs that I first installed on this engine a long time ago.I don’t see any cracks in the main webs.Nothing to be seen anyplace.I sprayed everything down with brake cleaner,etc and it looks perfect.I think this block must be one of the better castings if it lasted this long and with that type of mileage on it.

It even had the old felpro printoseal head gaskets on it when I took it apart.It has a slight cylinder ridge so I’m using .75mm federal mogul pistons and sealed power rings with the anti scuff coating on the skirts.

For the heads I purchased two reman 6.5 60 degree heads from ADF diesel in Quebec several years ago so those should be good to gther parts include new rod bolts from Leroy diesel,clevite rod bushings,enginetech cam bearings,clevite camshaft and nos ford roller lifters made in 1994.

This is basically just a backup engine for one of my 90s trucks so it’s going to have a 6.5 timing chain set with acdelco crank sensor installed as well.I’ll let you guys know how it turns out.I’ll probably make a separate thread when the rebuild actually begins.

 

[Big T]

Dashboard lighting (for our 6.5’s).
$850 option is the Dakota replacement dash. Not that desperate.
Ordered 21 from SuperbrightLED for my truck and a few for my son’s car. My dash needed 8ea #194 and 11ea #74s. I also ordered 6 #74s for the HVAC controller (two yellow ones for the A/C & Recirc. button). Went with cool white 6000k for the bluer light vs a blue bulb. Sure hope these little turds dim!

Will look at the Jungle site for future stuff like the little socket bulbs for headlight switches etc.

I’m going with theonegauge digital for the ‘94:

https://www.theonegauge.com/product/onegauge-kit-chevytruck-88-94/

Is yours a ‘96 1/2 ton?

 

[dieselolds]

A few days ago I put new 6.5 diesel turbo decals on the crease of the hood upon my 96 gmc.The old decals were badly faded and hardly noticeable.I had silver duplicates made that were purchased from eBay.It looks much better now that’s for sure.