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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Here's my install, maybe some info or pics that could help out.
http://www.65turbogarage.com/ptwiring-solutions-battery-cables.html
That's a great write up. He's since changed the 90* bracket at the starter to a lesser angle. You come in to the starter at an angle from over the frame. Can't wait! My issue with the set I ordered was my mistake in ordering the 1994 set vs. the correct for 1999 set. 4' of alternator line coming off the PS side was throwing me way off.
 
That's a great write up. He's since changed the 90* bracket at the starter to a lesser angle. You come in to the starter at an angle from over the frame. Can't wait! My issue with the set I ordered was my mistake in ordering the 1994 set vs. the correct for 1999 set. 4' of alternator line coming off the PS side was throwing me way off.


Yeah, that cable runs up to the terminal block on the firewall on 94 and older. When I get my 94 back together (yeah, right), I'll have to get one of those to replace the starter cable I "borrowed" and modified (cut the alternator lead off about 10" from the battery terminal) in an emergency a couple of Januarys ago when I was swapping starters on my Burb and the starter terminal cable end snapped off as I was putting it on the stud (why such CHEAP terminals on an OEM cable?). It was Sunday, after 6pm, getting dark and the wind had really picked up as the next snow front was moving in, soooo, pull and modified the one out of the 94 to work in the 98 Burb. Used a 10-12ga weatherproof butt connector to tie into the alternator pigtail on the 98 Burb.
 
The Facet pump can not move enough volume of fuel to maintain any pressure when cruising over 75. It drops to 0 pounds or just slightly over 0, could not see the gauge from the passenger side real good.
Sounds like the Leroy diesel lift pump kit might be in demand sooner than I thought.
I did receive the heated fuel/water separator/filter system in the US mail this morning, that was a surprise to look up from breakfast to see the USPS jeep pull into the driveway. LOL
I do not believe that it is made by Parker but it looks to be of very good quality.For about 25 bucks, shipping included, do not see how I could go wrong. it appears to be made in USA too.
IMG_3429.jpg
IMG_3430.jpg

And a little bit of a shot of the 78 K20 203 transfer case, getting ready to strip it down for the HI-LOW range selector gears. The T-Case in the 78 now has the hi low gears in it are plumb shot, no amount of force can hold it in. I would just install this case but I have already invested into the original box, new chain/sprockets, bearings and seals and a part time kit. Installed manual locking hubs too.
IMG_3431.jpg
 
That's a great write up. He's since changed the 90* bracket at the starter to a lesser angle. You come in to the starter at an angle from over the frame. Can't wait! My issue with the set I ordered was my mistake in ordering the 1994 set vs. the correct for 1999 set. 4' of alternator line coming off the PS side was throwing me way off.
Thank you sir!
Currently working on the cooling mods article. (Water pump, clutch, fan)
I'll hopefully have it up in a few days.
 
Pulled the injectors on the Burb. Last warm day for a while is tomorrow so I'll do some stuff on the Truck outside to prep for a road trip up to Washington to see Bill.
Linked up with Red today for a bite to eat and a tour of the Wrecker. I gotta say, that's a heck of a project and while it looks and sound involved on the thread, its something else up close and personal. You've got my respect Amigo. Good to meet you and get the tour.
 
Replaced the blower resistor flux capacitor today. All is good and I now have all speeds on the blower fan. Not a bad job. It's on top of the HVAC box. Pull the glove box and remove the plug and the two screws holding it down and reverse to install.
 
Not the GMT400, 78 K20, in the process of dropping the transfer case, 203 new process, jumps out of low range. I hope the used set of gears I have is better than the ones in it LOL
 
That could be bent forks, not worn gears.
Fork appeared to be okay, no place on the fork wore any more than any other portion and it appeared to be nice and flat.
The transfer case I dismantled is the wrong one, 27 spline instead of a 32 spline input, figures. LOL
$140.0 bucks for a new input gear, guess I`ll shover back together and just run with it. Only time it is used is when I need the Tommy Lift to move something.
$140.00 will be better spent on the 6.5.
 
Posted elsewhere I had installed a 6micron fuel filter in the engine bay as a stop-gap to use with an OEM Lift Pump after the Air Dog failed. More of a mock up mounting really. I have it mounted over the Power Steering Pump on the A/C bracket. The assembly was held in place by only one bolt which also holds the radiator hose support. I wanted to make up a bracket for a better hold since one bolt, over the serpentine belt and pulleys...not a good idea for anything other than checking fitment.
IMG_9361.JPG

Since that mock up was a week ago, Thursday I got an "L" bracket at Home Depot, cut it down a bit, marked and drilled holes and then gave it a coat of paint.
IMG_9398.JPG
Bracket is held in place with the larger OEM bolts and the filter mount is attached with two bolts so it won't rotate into the pulleys. Bolts are secured with Nylon Lock washers. Should work for the foreseeable future.
IMG_9399.JPG
Hose protector on the radiator hose to keep the braided lines from inadvertently sawing a hole in it.

After I got done, my granddaughter came over to 'help' and so I had her help put together a line plug for the Air Dog's return line that runs back to the fuel filler neck. The line was open and venting to atmosphere meaning contaminants, water and such could get in and, when filling, fuel could get out. She really liked the big wrenches and did great.
Screen Shot 2017-12-23 at 4.23.05 PM.png

The plug I built out of spare brass fittings was a cobbled up solution consisting of three parts. 1). 1/2" brass hose end w/ 3/8" NPT-F threads. 2) 3/8"NPT-M to 1/8" NPT-F threaded adapter/reducer and 3) 1/8" NPT plug.

Once it was done, I took her out to the truck and had her tighten down the hose clamp holding it in using a 1/4" drive socket and ratchet. The flat blade screwdriver was too much of a challenge. Proper tool for the job and it fit her little hands.
Screen Shot 2017-12-23 at 4.22.13 PM.png

"Train up a child...." Love this little girl.
 
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Money spent on the 6.5 is always money better spent.

YUP, My way of thinking too, especially with the current lift pump hitting next to 0 pounds when running close to 80 MPH, Leroys Walbro pump kit is about how much the gear for the 203 costs,iirc. LOL

[QUOTE="Paveltolz, post: 547790,

"Train up a child...." Love this little girl.[/QUOTE]
Keep that child wrenching with You.
I would like it if My granddaughter would come over and spend some time helping and learning.
 
Replaced the turn signal switch on my son’s ‘94 Suburban. Unfortunatley, broke the plastic horn ring putting it back together, so need to order one.
 
Added a magnetic oil pan heater to help with the hard starts of late. It often doesn't light and then takes a few iterations of glow, key off, glow, key off. Not that cold either at 20-30*. When it does start it doesn't want to fire on all cylinders right away. Lots of white/grey smoke...very acrid...loping motor, very loud 'chatter-rattle' and neighbors, I would imagine, unhappy (new twin babies...I get it started and coast out of the driveway and smokily down the hill to not wake them all the way up). Clears up after a while but, it takes a few minutes. I attributed it to all the extra two-stoke oil I fed it while limping home w/o the lift pump (about 3/4 of a gallon fed in there over 500 miles of driving. But, it also feels like the starter isn't spinning fast enough or a cylinder isn't lighting. Block heater helped some so I added the oil pan heater today. Let it warm for a couple of hours and it fired right up, smoked about 30 seconds and didn't even go into the chatter-rattle like normal which helped with the smoke too. Will check timing and such when I get up to Bill's tomorrow. Hope to have an event free road trip. If successful, I'll make another run down to Benson to see 635 next weekend.
 
Local parts stores usually has those in stock.

NAPA had the part. It's called a Turn Signal Return Cam, but it also plays a function for the horn. Got it back together and not the horn works, but the steering wheel is locking while the engine is on. Why would that lock pin be popping out while the ignition is on?
 
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