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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

OK restored the '99 K2500 Suburban back to ATT and 4" exhaust post smog test. Took it on a test run and the beast is back. Saw 14 psi boost on several runs and spun the tires on some starts. Took it on the Freeway for about 10 miles to really check the new Bilstein shocks and it was a definite improvement.

I tried the posted method to pull the codes from the transfer case control module and it did not work. The transfer case is the next big project for me. Then install new forged lower control arms and GMT 800 rear axle on my sons '94 K2500 Suburban.
 
And the JOB.
Fixing a basement after alkali has rotted the concrete part way through. Now have it all scaled down and soaked in vinegar to neutralize the acid.
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couple of days ago i was driving and after shifting to 4th, it continued to rise in rpm, even after the TC was locked. checked the fluid and although it wasn't low enough to cause problems i topped it off. it does it most times but not all the time. going over an overpass yesterday the rpms jumped to 3K, 65 mph, TC locked in 4th. TC is not slipping so confident that's not the problem.
i have the spare out of the 96 with 160K. this one has 260K. time for a trans swap it looks like.
 
ak diesel driver said:
Is that even structural anymore?
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I believe so, that stuff must be eight inches thick.
Wifeys 88 Buick, it rained, snowed then dropped to about ten below. I kept asking her why she keeps locking the doors, nothing in there anyone would steal, she kept locking the doors. Well. somehow water got into the doors and now the locking mechanisms is froze tight. Had a guy from the body shop with his sticks over here, He could get onto the lock button and push on it but it would only pop back to lock again. She now is driving MY TRUCK to get to work and back. No thaw in the near future. Having the son come over with his tractor, pull car into street, get hooked onto front end and see if we can get it shoved into the garage. On a better note, the wifey said she will not lock the car again. LOL
 
MrMarty51 said:
I believe so, that stuff must be eight inches thick.
Wifeys 88 Buick, it rained, snowed then dropped to about ten below. I kept asking her why she keeps locking the doors, nothing in there anyone would steal, she kept locking the doors. Well. somehow water got into the doors and now the locking mechanisms is froze tight. Had a guy from the body shop with his sticks over here, He could get onto the lock button and push on it but it would only pop back to lock again. She now is driving MY TRUCK to get to work and back. No thaw in the near future. Having the son come over with his tractor, pull car into street, get hooked onto front end and see if we can get it shoved into the garage. On a better note, the wifey said she will not lock the car again. LOL
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Put $20.00 on the dash, door open, engine running, and lights on. If you come back finding the battery is dead, $20.00 gone, and out of gas you will need to sell it as scrap.
 
I've had something that is draining both yellow top Optimas to a no start condition in about two days. Going to check tonight to see if there's a big draw somewhere.
 
WarWagon said:
Put $20.00 on the dash, door open, engine running, and lights on. If you come back finding the battery is dead, $20.00 gone, and out of gas you will need to sell it as scrap.
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LOL
Got out the kerosene space heater and warmed one door enough to get it open. It now is in the garage and thawed out. It started snowing again so it will stay in the garage until the snow is done falling. then out the door it will go, hopefully she will not lock the doors again. A friend that owns a body shop brought over his break in tools. He coul push the lock forwards to unlock position but the slide would just pop back to lock again. Never seen coor linkages freeze like that before.
Okay, it is off to work I go. Have a nice day everyone.
Maybe a conversation thread should be started to take the heat off of this thread ? How does that sound to everyone ?
 
Wifey parked the truck in the driveway, neighbor pulled in behind Her, told Her there was not brake lights.
Out of the garage with the Buick, in with the truck. Removed tail lamp assemblies.
It appears there is one burned bulb and one bad circuit board. It was too cold when removing lamp assemblies and the plastic retainers on the left side broke off. Have new lens assemblies, circuit boards and bulbs going to be delivered this morning. One of the perks of living in a smallish town. LOL
Truck been setting in the 70 degree garage from about three yesterday afternoon and it still is dripping from melting snow.
cold mother bear out there when I drove it in, warmed up a bunch over night though, now minus one degree. LOL
 
Gmt400 trucks constantly butned up the tail light boards. In the fleet those are something we kept plenty of in stock. We tried better ground wires, even used relays and larger wires to carry better power to fight voltage drop- nothing solved it. Gm paid us for those tests, so they didn’t have a low cost solution either. We learned quick to have a test light or meter of some type in hand when changing a bulb. I always figured heat was the biggest killer.
 
Guess I'm just lucky. 400k is miles driving one and never had one go out on my truck. Seen other trucks with failures but I assumed it was only occasional.
 
I’d say 35-40% of them in the fleet and my personal. But the plastic gets burned. And hot here cold where you live, so... fits the same info from gm- high failure rate in hot locations, not cold.
@WarWagon many in your area?
 
Suburban work today, finally after being sick for over two weeks now. Turbo and Waterpump.
Turbo got the Hurricane 7 center section installed while in Washington but, I still needed to add the oil drain (-10AN) fittings; heat shield cleaned up and added; removed the mounting studs to cleaned up the threads and all; Turbo master added and then the -6AN oil feed fitting. Once I get the injectors installed, I'll reinstall the turbo.

Water pump progress consisted of mounting the pump to backing plate, a small project I've been procrastinating. After applying the K&M Copper seal to the backing plate and the pump, I used the six or seven bolts that attach the pump to the plate from the back plus seven longer bolts and nuts to further clamp the assembly together and let it all set up. As usual, I made a mess but, I'm learning on the Suburban 'to not let perfection get in the way of good enough.'
That was enough fun for the first day out of the house in over two weeks. Felt good though.
 
Will L. said:
Gmt400 trucks constantly butned up the tail light boards. In the fleet those are something we kept plenty of in stock. We tried better ground wires, even used relays and larger wires to carry better power to fight voltage drop- nothing solved it. Gm paid us for those tests, so they didn’t have a low cost solution either. We learned quick to have a test light or meter of some type in hand when changing a bulb. I always figured heat was the biggest killer.
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I am not sure that the 93 K1500 had circuit boards, never ever had a reason to remove a tail lamp assembly.
One circuit board was definetely messed up, the other questionable so I just replaced them both.
I broke off one of the tail lamps plastic retainers that hooks into the box so that lamp needed to be replaced, the originals are so faded figured I`d just doooum both and have the same color of light eliminating from both sides. LOL
I removed the brake switch to get to the connector for testing purposes, installed a new switch while I was at it. I hope this one holds up and lasts as long as the original.
 
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