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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Glad nothing went major wrong.
Please always tie down that kinda weight. Had a coworker commit suicide after a 40 lbs tool set came out of his truck bed and go through window of a car killing a young boy.
 
MMarty, glad you're ok and x2 on securing that tool box.

Worked on the truck instead of Burb. Finally installed the half-shafts in my last attempt to see if it will stay together. When I went to install the front driveshaft though, it's now too short by about 3/4". I thought the thing telescoped but, I wasn't able to move it. I asked the question in my project thread but, I'll ask again here:

Is the front drive shaft adjustable as to length? There's what look like a locking ring on it (6" below the grease fitting) but, I'm not going to start playing with that until I get some more info.
 
Glad nothing went major wrong.
Please always tie down that kinda weight. Had a coworker commit suicide after a 40 lbs tool set came out of his truck bed and go through window of a car killing a young boy.
OH MY, sad day there.
I hd packed the box for years in the back of the state trucks, never tied it down, never had it move.
I will now "CHAIN" it down. I would never ever want a disaster like that on my head.
 
Loaded the Truck and headed out on a 1600 mile road trip. Only made it to Flagstaff when the Air Dog died, climbing a 5% grade, into a very strong headwind...truck never noticed the absence of fuel pressure. Seemed to run better actually!

Well, if anyone wants to know, the Air Dog 165 is flow on fail. 70-75 mph south, 55 mph north to home to keep rotor head temps lower plus with the fuel cap loose to ensure the IP wasn't fighting the vacuum, adding fuel and 2stroke every 130 miles to keep the fuel pushing on the sender and to lube the rotor head.
 
Loaded the Truck and headed out on a 1600 mile road trip. Only made it to Flagstaff when the Air Dog died, climbing a 5% grade, into a very strong headwind...truck never noticed the absence of fuel pressure. Seemed to run better actually!

Well, if anyone wants to know, the Air Dog 165 is flow on fail. 70-75 mph south, 55 mph north to home to keep rotor head temps lower plus with the fuel cap loose to ensure the IP wasn't fighting the vacuum, adding fuel and 2stroke every 130 miles to keep the fuel pushing on the sender and to lube the rotor head.
I have been thinking of adding a fuel pressure gauge, this post just confirmed My need for that.
thank You for posting this information.
While I`m at it, a vacuum gauge too.
 
@Paveltolz Nice to know about the airdog. nicer yet to know when something quits working and saves you from excessive wear on something else! kinda peaks my interest that you says it ran better- makes me think about meangreenh1 / greenmeanie, what the heck is your screen name here? ugg! the electric controlled and adjustable pressure system he designed I think is the next evolution for fuel improvments by the sound of it, demonstrated by you here.
 
I have been thinking of adding a fuel pressure gauge, this post just confirmed My need for that.
thank You for posting this information.
While I`m at it, a vacuum gauge too.
Ted R (635 member) was a trucker and got me kinda gauge-ish. Boost, EGT and Fuel Pressure on the pillar. Air Intake, Transmission and Oil Pressure on top of the instrument cluster (Lights are brighter for the picture).
IMG_1575 copy.JPG

@Paveltolz Nice to know about the airdog. nicer yet to know when something quits working and saves you from excessive wear on something else! kinda peaks my interest that you says it ran better- makes me think about meangreenh1 / greenmeanie, what the heck is your screen name here? ugg! the electric controlled and adjustable pressure system he designed I think is the next evolution for fuel improvments by the sound of it, demonstrated by you here.

Not sure what the story on the Air Dog's failure is. I knew it was 'flow on fail' from an earlier episode of relay failure. I'll do a more thorough diagnostic later. Right now my Give a Squat Gauge is pegged at Zero...still road buzzy from 19hrs of driving and the hour or so of the fuse, relay dance in the parking lot at O Reilly in Flagstaff.

A small success story from yesterday though to add to the 'What did you do....' part of this thread.
solved a recently emerging issue of 'my hood won't open.' It used to jump when the release handle was pulled. Lately it's been doing the'pop noise but no jump' when the release was pulled which had been easily solved by a slight fist bump to the hood. Anyone know why that works? I do now.

Anyway, the fist bump thing had turned into more of a Fist Wham which AKDiesel saw on his trip through. That, of course, failed almost completely yesterday too. When I did get it open, I drove around Flagstaff slowly with just the safety latch engaged.

Cable and release lever all work, no restrictions etc. The release latch doesn't have a spring to pull it back once the one the cable activates releases which was what I originally thought was wrong.
Here is the latch (highlightedclosed position.
IMG_9336.JPG
The "spring" is provided by the one on the hood. Once the release is pulled, (pointed out below), the spring is allowed to push the hood up causing the latch to rotate out of the way.
IMG_9337.JPG

Opened it looks a like everyone else's does.
IMG_9338.JPG
Get enough road gack, oil, grease and dirt in there and you have a very uncooperative latch.

Solution.... if one will spray release mechanism with a much more than is environmentally friendly amount of brake cleaner, manipulate the latch to move around the remaining gack, then spray it some more, that latch literally floats where as before, it was practically frozen in place which, given the colder temps was probably a lot of the issue. I hit it with White Lithium Grease but, given the winter temps setting in, that might be a mistake. Oh well, I still have some brake cleaner in that can I bought in Flagstaff.....
 
Loaded the Truck and headed out on a 1600 mile road trip. Only made it to Flagstaff when the Air Dog died, climbing a 5% grade, into a very strong headwind...truck never noticed the absence of fuel pressure. Seemed to run better actually!

Well, if anyone wants to know, the Air Dog 165 is flow on fail. 70-75 mph south, 55 mph north to home to keep rotor head temps lower plus with the fuel cap loose to ensure the IP wasn't fighting the vacuum, adding fuel and 2stroke every 130 miles to keep the fuel pushing on the sender and to lube the rotor head.

Are you trying to take the failure crown from WarWagon?
 
Are you trying to take the failure crown from WarWagon?
Hardly. The truck is still drivable and the motor, transmission, etc are all functional. I'm thinking that after not driving it more than around town for the last 4 years, a 19hr road trip with only a bad lift pump AND still able to drive over 400 miles home I'm not in anyway competing with WW. That and I also managed to miss three deer (Kanab, Panguich and Goshen UT) while driving in rain, wind, snow and fog....
 
I think I have more miles on Patch with a dead lift pump than a working one... Emissions test failure and a need for an IP rebuild to pass is keeping Patch parked for now. It looses timing at WOT snap test and blows white smoke.
 
Hood and door latches and hinges I like to use spray graphite. Just clean the heck out of it first, cover surrounding areas with a rag, and soak it with the graphite. Lubricates amazing and won’t attract dirt anymore.

Get the can with the little straw and you can spray some inside the door locks too.
 
I did the high idle mod today. I ordered the two wires that @quadstar87 sells that already has the right connector for the pcm. I installed 2 switches even though I will probably never use the 2 highest idle speeds. With the two wires you have the factory idle which is roughly 600 rpms, 1070 with the #1 switch on, 1360 with the #2 switch on or 1600 rpms with both switches on.
 
I did the high idle mod today. I ordered the two wires that @quadstar87 sells that already has the right connector for the pcm. I installed 2 switches even though I will probably never use the 2 highest idle speeds. With the two wires you have the factory idle which is roughly 600 rpms, 1070 with the #1 switch on, 1360 with the #2 switch on or 1600 rpms with both switches on.
I guess I will be checking into one of those kits.
I always try to let the truck warm up for about ten minits before driving off. I always think it would be nice to be able to step up the idle just a little during that warm up time.
 
I guess I will be checking into one of those kits.
I always try to let the truck warm up for about ten minits before driving off. I always think it would be nice to be able to step up the idle just a little during that warm up time.
That was my thinking to. I can idle the truck up during winter months to get the heat a little faster and during the summer time the air conditioning would be colder.

The wire kit that I bought is cheaper than the crimp tool to be able to do it yourself.
 
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