What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

[dbrannon79]

I would have thought when the crank is colder than the HB it would make for an easier slide on and install. the OD on the balancer would be expanded where the crank would have shrunken a smig.

also have been told to apply a thin coat of antiseize to the crank and inside of the HB to ensure slippage when installing and not to rust later down the road.

 

[MrMarty51]

I have installed several speedy sleeves over the years, watched others install them.
Following the directions to a T. Dont remember the time frame or miles run, had several of the seals start leaking.
Pull the suspect component and the sleeves would be cut back to the original shaft, yoke or HB snout.
I always figured it was caused from the seal gripping the sleeve a little tighter and cutting through.
That was always with the item receiving the sleeve chucked in the lathe, spun and dressed with 320 grit emery cloth so everything was clean and dry. Been too many years so I dont remember any of the rest of the steps to install a speedy sleeve. Seems red loktite may have been involved.

 

[MrMarty51]

I would have thought when the crank is colder than the HB it would make for an easier slide on and install. the OD on the balancer would be expanded where the crank would have shrunken a smig.

also have been told to apply a thin coat of antiseize to the crank and inside of the HB to ensure slippage when installing and not to rust later down the road.

I have never seen one rust into position on an engine that is being used.
Not sure on one thats set out in the weather for ten or twenty years.

 

[Big T]

I just run the oil 0.5 to 0.75 quarts low…..wait it does that on its own.

 

[Will L.]

We call that the Detroit automatic oil change!

 

[dbrannon79]

@Will L. Just so I will know in advance, what are the torque specs and procedure for the HB and pulley?

 

[Big T]

@Will L. Just so I will know in advance, what are the torque specs and procedure for the HB and pulley?

275 for the HB crank bolt

 

[dbrannon79]

275 for the HB crank bolt

Good thing I asked. even with my uncalibrated one. I think it only goes up to 150. I need to see if I can borrow one from work.

 

[Big T]

Good thing I asked. even with my uncalibrated one. I think it only goes up to 150. I need to see if I can borrow one from work.

Thus the cordless impact, or the 5’ cheater handle on a breaker bar.

 

[dbrannon79]

I found this in the shop manual I got off DP for the 95 trucks. 30 ft lbs for the pulley bolts

 

[Big T]

Good thing I asked. even with my uncalibrated one. I think it only goes up to 150. I need to see if I can borrow one from work.

Torque Specs

All Specs are in Foot Pounds unless specified. Newton Meter (NM) in Brackets.

www.thetruckstop.us

This ^^^ says 200 ft/lb or 270 nm for the HB and 37 ft/lb or 50 nm for the pulley.

Crankshaft:

• Bearing Cap 12mm Inner Bolts:
  • Make Two Passes--55 (75)
  • Final Pass--90* more
• Bearing Cap 12mm Outer Bolts:
  • Make Two Passes--48 (65)
  • Final Pass--90* more
• Bearing Cap 10mm Outer Bolts:
  • Single Pass--30 (40)
• Pulley Bolts--37 (50)
• CKP Sensor--17 (23)
• Harmonic Balancer Bolt--200 (270)

 

[dbrannon79]

Looks like the HB is 200 ft lbs. or 270 nm.

 

[Big T]

Looks like the HB is 200 ft lbs. or 270 nm.

View attachment 80835

Well mine are on there pretty good then.

 

[dbrannon79]

the book doesn't say anything about torquing in stages. just shows go to 200. I would attach the file but it's telling me the file is too large.

some special tool to pull and install. looks like a flat round plate bolted to the front with a threaded center for pull or push like a PS pulley tool

Hope my regular puller will work. was going to use two of the old front pulley bolts on it with the puller. It's a three bolt puller that has an extra slot to be used as a two bolt puller.

and install with the crank bolt

 

[Big T]

the book doesn't say anything about torquing in stages. just shows go to 200. I would attach the file but it's telling me the file is too large.

some special tool to pull and install. looks like a flat round plate bolted to the front with a threaded center for pull or push like a PS pulley tool

Hope my regular puller will work. was going to use two of the old front pulley bolts on it with the puller. It's a three bolt puller that has an extra slot to be used as a two bolt puller.

and install with the crank bolt

I used a standard two arm pulley puller. To get it back on, some taps with a plastic mallet until you can get some bite with the bolt and finish it off with the bolt. I’ve done at least four of these and no problems, no leaks. If you don’t use a cordless impact, you will need to lock the crank. I use a demo bar held to the HB with one of the bolts and the bar jammed to the crossmember.

 

[dbrannon79]

I used a standard two arm pulley puller. To get it back on, some taps with a plastic mallet until you can get some bite with the bolt and finish it off with the bolt. I’ve done at least four of these and no problems, no leaks. If you don’t use a cordless impact, you will need to lock the crank. I use a demo bar held to the HB with one of the bolts and the bar jammed to the crossmember.

is it safe enough to lock the crank at the flex plate? my cover is missing and could lock it there. I have an air impact but really don't want to have to pull the fan and shroud out to make room for it LOL

 

[Big T]

is it safe enough to lock the crank at the flex plate? my cover is missing and could lock it there. I have an air impact but really don't want to have to pull the fan and shroud out to make room for it LOL

I understand you can do it at the flex plate, but you will still need to pull the fan and shroud. It’s not a big deal to remove those.

 

[dbrannon79]

So if I were to lock the crank at the flex plate, it won't harm anything applying torque at the front? or is it best practice to lock it at the balancer when torquing it down?

 

[Big T]

So if I were to lock the crank at the flex plate, it won't harm anything applying torque at the front? or is it best practice to lock it at the balancer when torquing it down?

There is no best practice here; you do what works. As noted, you will need to pull the fan shroud and fan to gain proper access to the pulley bolts and especially the HB bolt. Given the amount of torqued required to remove the HB bolt, there is no way you could do it from underneath. IIRC I always pulled the the radiator when doing this job, but I was also pulling timing cover to replace timing chain and gears. You can probably do it without pulling the radiator, but you will need a cheater bar and will have to lock the crank. Not so with just the cordless impact.

 

[Will L.]

Big T is correct you have to remove that stuff for access.
And yes it’s ok to lock the engine from turning at the flywheel/ flexplate. I use a flywheel turner with a handle extension (pipe works) and rotate the engine to get it jammed solid.
Then I reverse the positioning to tighten it later.

A strong impact gun can usually pop it free without spinning the engine, but. Know not everyone has that.

ABSOLUTELY use the install tool. Sometimes people get away with using the bolt, but very often they destroy the crankshaft and bolt. Hink makes a simple one that is like $30 or something if you don’t have one.