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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Big T said:
Fluidampner is the permanent cure. AC Delco for 100K miles.
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I want the fluidamper, I might have to leave her down for a bit to have the extra cash for it. I have not found an AC Delco one available anywhere locally. even online it's showing discontinued and no longer available.

after seeing this, I'm not even gonna try testing out the steering part. she's staying put as is until it can be fixed!
 
dbrannon79 said:
I want the fluidamper, I might have to leave her down for a bit to have the extra cash for it. I have not found an AC Delco one available anywhere locally. even online it's showing discontinued and no longer available.

after seeing this, I'm not even gonna try testing out the steering part. she's staying put as is until it can be fixed!
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You were on your way to a broken crank. At least we got to see the first stage of that process.

I have a Fluidampner on my ‘99; fresh AC Delco on the ‘94. Shoulda gone with another Fluidampner, but wasn’t sure of my son’s intentions with the truck and it does have 295K miles on it. If I put another engine in it, it will get a Fluidampner.
 
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Big T said:
You were on your way to a broken crank. At least we got to see the first stage of that process.
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I'm greateful I managed to stay out of that club.

I did a little digging online and found this site called oemcats. using the GM part number it's showing several GM dealers with one in stock for $70.

would anyone know the legitimacy of this site? it shows there is one at the San Marcos TX Chuck Nash Chevy dealer. I may try calling them to see but I'm skeptical about the price.

GM 10154688 Balancer, genuine OEM part

Crankshaft GM genuine OEM part.
oemcats.com oemcats.com
 
dbrannon79 said:
I'm greateful I managed to stay out of that club.

I did a little digging online and found this site called oemcats. using the GM part number it's showing several GM dealers with one in stock for $70.

would anyone know the legitimacy of this site? it shows there is one at the San Marcos TX Chuck Nash Chevy dealer. I may try calling them to see but I'm skeptical about the price.

GM 10154688 Balancer, genuine OEM part

Crankshaft GM genuine OEM part.
oemcats.com oemcats.com
Click to expand...
Do it! $70 is a good price for an AC Delco dampener.
 
Yes, always do them in pairs.
The good stock pulleys can be bought from AM General for a hmmwv 6.5.
Not sure I want to hear their price though.

Proper torque on them bolts with loctite when it goes back together.
Post pics of the rubber when its off. People commonly think “thats ok looking” and don’t have a clue. Picture of how it looked at time of failure might help the next guy.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Dismantle them tail lights, inside, tweak on the contacts. Put them back together and see what they do.
I just cant quite remember what I did to a LS tail lamp I had that had failed in a short time. They are fixable then they continue working.
Might have been something to do with internal ground probes or some such.
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The failed ANZIO units have a sealed module that isn't something I cared to go into. The new OEM style units I left as is so I wouldn't void a chance at getting a full refund on the return (money hit the account today). The old OEM units I'll try again later after I've done a headlight restore on the surface and replaced the bulbs with LED units. Then I can preserve the Burb's LED units for either another time, vehicle or person in need.

In other news, I fixed the Horn by going over the diagrams and simply checked the fuse. Yup, blown. That's why we carry spares.
The new wheels and tires came in.
Old 265x70x17 Coopers on Dick Cepeks
IMG_7160 (Edited).JPG

New 265x70x16 BF Goodrich Trail Terrains on MBM Legacy's
IMG_7161 (Edited).JPG
Tires are 1.6" shorter and kinda disappear in the wheel well shadows. They roll so much nicer, smoother and I can tell just in the short city driving they handle much better too. Need to get new fender flares as the old Zenon's are much too wide for these since there isn't nearly as much offset as the Dick Cepeks.

A/C recharge and Brake Fluid flush is next.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Yea, Ima call them tomorrow and see. I might as well do the crank pulley too. hopefully they have it for a good price too. keeping my fingers crossed :D
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Definitely call the stealership directly. Sometimes a deal can be had from them. Had them price match half-shafts in the past. Can't hurt to call.
 
Paveltolz said:
The failed ANZIO units have a sealed module that isn't something I cared to go into. The new OEM style units I left as is so I wouldn't void a chance at getting a full refund on the return (money hit the account today). The old OEM units I'll try again later after I've done a headlight restore on the surface and replaced the bulbs with LED units. Then I can preserve the Burb's LED units for either another time, vehicle or person in need.

In other news, I fixed the Horn by going over the diagrams and simply checked the fuse. Yup, blown. That's why we carry spares.
The new wheels and tires came in.
Old 265x70x17 Coopers on Dick Cepeks
View attachment 80795

New 265x70x16 BF Goodrich Trail Terrains on MBM Legacy's
View attachment 80796
Tires are 1.6" shorter and kinda disappear in the wheel well shadows. They roll so much nicer, smoother and I can tell just in the short city driving they handle much better too. Need to get new fender flares as the old Zenon's are much too wide for these since there isn't nearly as much offset as the Dick Cepeks.

A/C recharge and Brake Fluid flush is next.
Click to expand...
Nice looking truck. Your new rims look exactly like the ones I got only mine are 8 lug. did you get them from discount tire?
 
Will L. said:
Yes, always do them in pairs.
The good stock pulleys can be bought from AM General for a hmmwv 6.5.
Not sure I want to hear their price though.

Proper torque on them bolts with loctite when it goes back together.
Post pics of the rubber when its off. People commonly think “thats ok looking” and don’t have a clue. Picture of how it looked at time of failure might help the next guy.
Click to expand...
I will be sure to post some pics when I get to tear into it. I remember looking at it before and thinking the rubber still looked good, even the front seal was still holding as the back side wasn't coated in oil yet so I left it alone. I think that was last summer though.

I think I will need to get borrow a known good torque wrench from work too as I can't verify that the one I have is in spec. doing this job, I don't want to be playing the guessing game with the ratchet or counting ugga dugga's
 
dbrannon79 said:
I will be sure to post some pics when I get to tear into it. I remember looking at it before and thinking the rubber still looked good, even the front seal was still holding as the back side wasn't coated in oil yet so I left it alone. I think that was last summer though.

I think I will need to get borrow a known good torque wrench from work too as I can't verify that the one I have is in spec. doing this job, I don't want to be playing the guessing game with the ratchet or counting ugga dugga's
Click to expand...
I just blast them on with my cordless impact which is rated 445 ft lbs on, 1000 off. Prior to the cordless impact, I use Jack handle bar over the torque wrench.
 
Curiosity has me though about how it managed to separate like it did without spinning where the balance was off. I guess the outer piece would be solid steel and wouldn't be counter weighted. at least it didn't push out forward and take out the pulley and belt. I would think it could have taken out the fan and radiator too if that happened.
 
I was looking at RA at the pulley and noticed the dorman brand comes with two woodruff keys. I was unaware that the crank pulley used them. I thought they were held on by lining up the four bolts that thread into the HB. the only key I thought was on the crank shaft it's self meant for the HB. am I wrong here?

and with the pulley, am I safe to use an aftermarket one here?
 
dbrannon79 said:
I think I will need to get borrow a known good torque wrench from work too as I can't verify that the one I have is in spec. doing this job
Click to expand...
Funny you mention this, I just acquired a box full of assorted “out of spec” torque wrenches from my work that were being thrown out because “it’s cheaper to buy a new one than recalibrate”. Which may be true for the big guys, but us little guys can actually recalibrate them at the home shop quite easily, so I was looking into that process just yesterday, I’ll link a video here if I can find it again.

Edit: Found it!
 
dbrannon79 said:
Nice looking truck. Your new rims look exactly like the ones I got only mine are 8 lug. did you get them from discount tire?
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Thanks. It is still a 50+ footer during the day. Started to scuff paint for respray but the GM Patented Self Delaminating Paint affect in other places made that effort worthless. Will remove it all and then reshoot…eventually. Yes, Discount Tire sourced the wheels. Last October I purchased just one with a bottom of the line tire to go on the front along with the spare on the other side so the truck would load on the trailer. The Cepeks stuck out too far to clear the fenders when the truck was hauled up to Washington.
470822EA-FB49-48FE-A954-4C910E5F9990.jpeg

I liked the look and decided to go with these.
51BDAE2B-D3EE-4993-A684-3135FB2C5B4A.jpeg
Noticed that a couple of other trucks in the area have them too. Oh well, imitation is a compliment with trucks I guess.
 
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when I bought mine rims, I kinda didn't have much choice. I had just finished a brake job then and when I mounted the wheels back on they were scraping the calipers in the front. it had some old chrome steel wheels that the PO had put on, I think they were some old design of some American racing wheel. If I could find a set of the factory style ones with the GM center caps that would be nice. I've always liked the factory look on these rigs.
 
dbrannon79 said:
when I bought mine rims, I kinda didn't have much choice. I had just finished a brake job then and when I mounted the wheels back on they were scraping the calipers in the front. it had some old chrome steel wheels that the PO had put on, I think they were some old design of some American racing wheel. If I could find a set of the factory style ones with the GM center caps that would be nice. I've always liked the factory look on these rigs.
Click to expand...
Thats what I am looking for too, factory steel wheels for the K3500.
 
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