Barely broken in... Famous last words when you are buying a wore out POS. It can go a million miles, but, this one didn't...
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
Used Engine
- Thread starter Rodd
- Start date
Barely broken in... Famous last words when you are buying a wore out POS. It can go a million miles, but, this one didn't...
Rodd
Recruit
Do I need to take off the timing gear before removing the mains?
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
No You dont. I like to remove the T. gear just to get it out of the way. It will need to come off sometime, easier with the crank mounted in the block.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
In the video of the bearings, if You are referring to the notch in the very end of the bearing, that notch is to keep the bearing from spinning in its housing.
If that notch is flattened on the back side, then the bearing has been spinning within the rod and then the rod will require machining to get it back to specs to hold a bearing.
If that notch is flattened on the back side, then the bearing has been spinning within the rod and then the rod will require machining to get it back to specs to hold a bearing.
royunion
Active Member
Consider .001 undersize rod bearings only along with all the rest at your option of what everyone else has already recommended. You do not have to grind or remove the crank - just plasti-gauge them to make sure they are not TOO tight.
It will do wonders for oil pressure. with 254K on it the crank has had at least .001 beat off of it.
It will do wonders for oil pressure. with 254K on it the crank has had at least .001 beat off of it.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Hey, no machine porn! LOL!
Rodd
Recruit
What is the easiest way to remove the thrust bearings?
Rodd
Recruit
I have called every part store in my area and no one has or rents out the cam bearing removal tool. I have 3 friends that might have them but I doubt it since their shops usually don't rebuild. I will check with them in the morning. I found this on amazon. Will it work on our cam bearings? https://www.amazon.com/Performance-...4108&sr=1-5&keywords=cam+bearing+removal+tool
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Rodd
Recruit
Finally got the engine completely torn down except for the 3 square holed plugs. They are smaller than 3/8 and bigger than 1/4. Anyone know the size of them? Also Merry Christmas to me. I was inspecting the crank and cleaning it up and found this....
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Can you catch your fingernail on it?
Rodd
Recruit
not really. I can barely feel it.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I'd check on getting it polished. It looks like a main bearing? If so that's right where the oil groove in the bearing is.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yeah, that looks to me like is a contamination score- like chunk of crusy oil or small debris built up innthat jornal then broke free and came out.
Polish it and coat the bearings just make sure that bearing is in the minimum of the clearance range when you do it.
Polish it and coat the bearings just make sure that bearing is in the minimum of the clearance range when you do it.
Rodd
Recruit
I am going to send the bearings to Chris to coat. He coats the cranks as well. Should I have him coat it as well? I haven't checked pricing on a new crank, coating, or polishing. I am taking it to a machine shop to inspect it and possibly balance it.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
If You have a set if micrometers You can measure the cranking shaft and see if it is within specs.
a machine shop will also do that before polishing the crank, to be sure it will still be within specs after it is polished.
If it needs to be ground, then get it coated after the grinding.
One nice thing about getting the crank ground then coated, no more select to fit bearing, they should all be a nice undersize where You dont have to select fit each journal. Also get the rods reconditioned, then they too should all be a nice uniform size.
a machine shop will also do that before polishing the crank, to be sure it will still be within specs after it is polished.
If it needs to be ground, then get it coated after the grinding.
One nice thing about getting the crank ground then coated, no more select to fit bearing, they should all be a nice undersize where You dont have to select fit each journal. Also get the rods reconditioned, then they too should all be a nice uniform size.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Make sure if you are going to have that journal worked on, that the machine shop knows that all journals on that crank were nitrited - before the shop destoys a carbide cutter or two - and that the journal(s) worked on should be nitrited after td he work is completed.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Having the crank work all redone vs cost of a new crank has to be weighed.
It’s hard to find anything where coatings dont help, just cost vs reward is all that had to be determined.
It’s hard to find anything where coatings dont help, just cost vs reward is all that had to be determined.
So you have decided to forget about any warranty? I am just watching you do a full rebuild on worn out engine with a questionable crankshaft and I missed the reasoning. The overall cost is what I question. Not doubting you doing it right, but, this wasn't your goal at first.
Crankshafts are not cheap to refurb. A used one may be cheaper.
Crankshafts are not cheap to refurb. A used one may be cheaper.
Rodd
Recruit
The machine shop where I took it is where all the local diesel shops send their stuff to do. I spoke with a few friends who are diesel mechanics and they said to have this shop check out the crank. They all said that if the engine had 254k on it then the crank was rebalanced after it was chipped otherwise it wouldn't have had that many miles on it. They also said that the area where the scratch on the crank is right where there is an oil groove like what will said in his post, and if they can polish it without taking anything off it should be fine. I told the machine shop not to take anything off. They agreed that the scratch is more visual and is hardly noticeable to the touch. I did decide to do a full rebuild reusing the crank, cam, rods, and pistons.
Are you going to use new rings? I recommend a set from Total seal, you will need to gap them all to your bores..
With that many miles you should have the machine shop measure the bores and make sure they aren't out of spec/too big compared to the pistons and run a hone through them for the new rings to seat against..
With that many miles you should have the machine shop measure the bores and make sure they aren't out of spec/too big compared to the pistons and run a hone through them for the new rings to seat against..