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Used Engine

WarWagon said:
What kind of ridge do you have? A deglazing tool can quickly knock the carbon build up off. Ridge reamers are dangerous to remove just carbon. Remove bearing shell and block of wood to hammer rings past carbon build up. If the wood splinters you have too much buildup.
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The cylinder that I am taking the first one out of has the least amount of carbon on it. The cylinder walls don't have any carbon on them up to the edge, so I'm not sure if the deglazing tool will do anything. I will try with a block of wood.
 
Will L. said:
put the wood against the rod NOT AGAINST THE STUD.
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I was planning on just removing one cylinder at a time, clean it, ring it then put it back on. In order for me to put the wood against the rod I would need to unscrew all the studs and remove the crank. Is that how I should be doing it?
 
No it's not, you should remove the cap, place rubber tube on the studs, reach in and remove the bearing from the rod, turn the crank a bit to be able to place a dowel rod or something like that against the area of the rod the bearing came from, tap the assembly out.. maybe you should watch a few youtubes first to get a idea of what is done..
 
Twisted Steel Performance said:
No it's not, you should remove the cap, place rubber tube on the studs, reach in and remove the bearing from the rod, turn the crank a bit to be able to place a dowel rod or something like that against the area of the rod the bearing came from, tap the assembly out.. maybe you should watch a few youtubes first to get a idea of what is done..
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Thanks!
 
My normal move is I use a brass hammer and tap the sides of the rod cap to jar it free then with it off. Again, never hit the rod stud. It was taught this way for a kong time, but future rod stud failures have proven to result later unless you are installing new studs there. I slip on short pieces of fuel line over the rod studs for crank protection.

Then I use a broom stick size dowel. When there is no place on the rod to use, I will place it on the piston flat of the wrist pin. Then most of the time you can give 1 light tap to free it of the crank. It will just push down a he cylinder until it gets to the ridge.

Ok should have said this first. I use will scrape the ridge out by hand. Ridge reamers are a pain to use, and don’t always give good enough results to not need machining. I VERY CAREFULLY use razor blade or the triangle tipped gasket scraper to remove the ridge in the cylinders first before starting on rod removal.

I prefer to let the rings, sometimes breaking old rings, but so what imo, clear out the rest of the ridge.

Screw in a couple headbolts in thier location and use bailing wire across them to keep piston from falling out as you drive them if no one is there to help. After the first one you will see how far down to wrap the wire
 
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Thanks guy's. I put the fuel hose on the studs and turned the crank to get it out of the way. I then used a 1 foot 1"x1" block I had and put it on the rod and 2 taps and it came right out. Here is what the bearings and cylinder head looked like after cleaning.

 
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That much wear on the bearing, I would install new bearings.
Yes check crankshaft, but my guess is its ok. Uneaqual bearing wear isnt way unusual. If you can afford the time and money, get the bearings all figured out and into 8 different marked ziplock baggies (if they take differnt sizes for fit) and have Chris coat them. Its like buying bearing life.
 
That engine hasn't had much care with high miles. You will need an oil pump, and all bearings: mains, rod, cam. How does the valvetrain look? Cam, lifters, rockers?
 
WarWagon said:
That engine hasn't had much care with high miles. You will need an oil pump, and all bearings: mains, rod, cam. How does the valvetrain look? Cam, lifters, rockers?
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I haven't taken out the cam or lifters. I thought I posted a video of the rockers earlier on this thread. The valve train is in the heads, Right?
 
Will L. said:
That much wear on the bearing, I would install new bearings.
Yes check crankshaft, but my guess is its ok. Uneaqual bearing wear isnt way unusual. If you can afford the time and money, get the bearings all figured out and into 8 different marked ziplock baggies (if they take differnt sizes for fit) and have Chris coat them. Its like buying bearing life.
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So you are saying take all the used bearings and send them ones to Chris to have him coat them?
 
Select fit bearings... It's explained on here several times that each rod bearing can be a different size and the halves can also be different size from the other half. Read the back of each bearing half to see what size it is.
 
So If I am unable to read the sizes then I need to order new rods and bearings so they match? Do the main bearings have the size in the same location? I was hoping to get by with gapless rings, oil pump, timing gears, gaskets, and freeze plugs. I was wanting to get this one done with as little $ as possible and do a new build with my son and take our time looking for an optimizer block and building one, but it is looking like we may want to do a complete rebuild on this one. Am I correct in assuming that if I have one worn bearing I have multiple worn bearings?
 
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