• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Tune, resistors and tcc

MrMarty51 said:
There is a procedure. Look the module over. If there is a small hole all the way through it, see if a straightened paper clip will slide through it when the shifter is in park. I am not sure if that holds true with these modules though. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
If there is no alignment hole, disconnect the shift cable from the shift lever, the lever I believe will need to be removed, at least thats the way on the old ones.Then unbolt the module and slide it straight off.
The seal should be right under that, around the shaft.
I believe it will be called a shift shaft seal.
Figure out where it is leaking from first, before worring about that removal of that module.
I might be all wrong on the procedure. Someone please jump in if I am. I have replaced those modules before but that has been twenty years past.
Click to expand...
Yup. That about sums it up. If you don't have the special alignment fixture they call for in the GM Service Manual, your hack and/or carefully scribing an outline of the module on the case and carefully sliding the module off the shaft and NOT allowing the insert inside the module that slides over the shaft to rotate maintains the crucial internal switch alignment for Park and Neutral. If you notice, the way how the module bolts to the transmission, it allows for some rotation to "fine tune" the sweet spots for Park and Neutral so you can start only in those two positions and not partially in Reverse or Drive but not in P or N.
 
Shoot! I forgot to measure of the crossover pipe when I took the pic of my hideous repair. I was going to wrap a string around the pipe at the flange, mark it and measure the length. that will get you a close measurement just convert that measurement (circumference) to the diameter.
 
tighten the clamp a little tighter. or if you can still remove the flex pipe. grab ya some red rtv high heat silicone, coat it on the pipe where the clamp sits liberally and slide the flex back on. tighten the clamp you should see the flex get crushed down with the clamp.
 
WLKRP. (Well crap). I guess it’s try getting those flange nuts off and install the new crossover! I mean it’s not detrimental killer but the popo 👮‍♀️ might wanna follow you lol.
 
The only problem I see running it like that is the leak blowing on something that shouldn’t be hot like the oil filter or wires also you won’t be seeing any boost because it will all be going out that broken pipe
 
Due to circumstances from the past decisions I made involving situations between me and law enforcement most of them tend to not pull me over unless they absolutely have to..lol.. besides New York does not have emissions laws on older diesel trucks they can be as loud as they want
 
Do you have another crossover pipe to use? If so. I’d say go for trying to replace it if the nuts break use that flange repair you posted a photo of If not then for a short time wrapping that area good with something that can take the heat and be able to redirect what leaks downward away from the area and under the cab till you can get your hands on a crossover pipe
 
Yeah I have a crossover pipe to put on..got it from @ak diesel driver. I'm debating on just going ahead and trying to break those nuts loose by hand. I don't have torch's to get them really hot.
My concern is that from what I can see those clamps I posted pic of can't be used..one has to go around the manifold above the flange, and from what I can tell on these manifolds that area is square not round
 
The clamps of flange repair kit should fold open to allow you to get it over the pipe and manifold. I would snag one and try fitting it on there before breaking the nuts off. I’m thinking it would have to be rotated or clocked different so the holes are where you can get to them. I think the area where the studs go on the manifold will support the clamp even though the manifold is square
 
Valid point..if there big enough to go around the corners of the square pipe it should work....
In other news..I'm pretty sure the fluid leak is from the pan gasket..I should have used used permatex on both sides of the gasket..I only used it to put the gasket to the pan..not between the gasket and the tranny body... I plan th change the fluid and filter in a couple weeks anyhow because this tranny sat a long time..I figure there's probably alot of stuff in it so good idea to run it a short while to clean it out then change it.
 
Try tweaking the pan bolts a lil tighter. Not much so ya don’t over do it though. If you have some brake cleaner left or some sorta spray to clean the oil off. Cleaner the edge real good where it’s leaking and smear some silicone along the seam where the gasket is sandwiched. I’ve done that in a pinch like on oil pans and it worked! But the area has to be clean dry and oil free.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top