Tune, resistors and tcc

[dbrannon79]

@Stoney here’s the photo I promised of my hideous looking repair I did using furnace cement and fiberglass exhaust wrap with the c clamp holding the one broken bolt. It’s gotten me by for several months. I’m dreading the day I have to put it apart to deal with the broken off bolts!

 

[Stoney]

@DieselAmateur you must live close by I thought you said something about Bath or Savona NY one time but don't remember

 

[Stoney]

They are at two pieces set it's actually two different rings one goes around the manifold above the flange and the other one goes around at the crossover pipe by the flange you see you can spin it around then you put bolts between the ears on the clams you don't even use the ones they're on the manifold

 

[dbrannon79]

If you end up going this route as a repair let me know how well it works. You might encourage me to fix mine plus installing a better crossover pipe to better match my 4” exhaust lol

 

[MrMarty51]

 

[MrMarty51]

I would rather have the studs and nuts too. @DieselAmateur
At least if a nut is seized onto the stud, it can easily be heated so that it will free and spin off.
If I ever again have to pull the CO pipe on Mine, there will be stainless steel studs installed and SS nuts too, with a liberal slathering of copper antiseize.

 

[DieselAmateur]

Right on Stoney, I see looking at the picture now how the clamps you got work. Looks like an upgrade from threading into the exhaust manifold for sure. Worst case scenario if things shear or get stuck you could just destroy the clamp removing it instead of having to eff with the manifold on the engine.

and yup I'm about an hour north of Elmira, 20 or so minutes from Bath. Savona is where the only reputable transmission shop around is. If I wasn't trying to wrap up building an addition I've been on since mid April I would have done my best to give you a hand with your project. Weekends are the only time I'm really free so if you have another big project in the future and need another set of hands don't hesitate to reach out

 

[Stoney]

Appreciate that @DieselAmateur . And I'm in construction to so do be afraid too Hollar if you ever need a hand...btw (the others won't get this). Did you see that Savona is getting back there most infamous citizen after 29 years??

 

[Stoney]

Actually I'm k in nda having a issue already..the tranny is leaking...I can't tell if it's from the pan gasket or from behind the black box module where the shift linkage is and such ..is there anything behind there that could leak?

 

[MrMarty51]

Actually I'm k in nda having a issue already..the tranny is leaking...I can't tell if it's from the pan gasket or from behind the black box module where the shift linkage is and such ..is there anything behind there that could leak?

Usually pan bolts needs to be tightenend again.
Behind all that shift switch stuff, there is a seal back there around the shifter shafter.

 

[Stoney]

Just for the oh shit catagory how hard is that seal to change?

 

[MrMarty51]

Just for the oh shit catagory how hard is that seal to change?

Not too bad at all.
It is a small seal. Usually a healthy dental style pick will pluck it out. Or a fairly thin bladed screwing driver.
Before installing a new one, pack the spring side of the seal with grease to keep the spring from popping out, if it has a spring.
Thoroughly clean the bore that the seal goes into, use some kind of a mineral spirits, brake parts cleaner, charcoal lighter fuel, or what ever You have laying around. Then after it is dry, coat the bore and the OD of the seal with number 2 permatex. Thats the stuff in a bottle with the brush in the cap.
Use a socket about the size of the OD of the seal, or a piece of pipe the right diameter and drive in the new seal.
I’m not sure of the procedure for adjusting that black box device though.

 

[Stoney]

I'm going to spray everything off with brake cleaner in the morning then watch and see where fluid comes out from

 

[Stoney]

@MrMarty51 what is that seal called? Also what do you mean adjusting the module thingy?

 

[Husker6.5]

@MrMarty51 is referring to the black module that slides over the shifter shaft and tells the truck if it's in Neutral or Park so you can't start it in gear.

 

[Husker6.5]

If not adjusted correctly, it could start in the wrong gear or not start in Park or Neutral.

 

[Stoney]

Anyone have part number for the seal? And if I pull the module to put in the seal do I have to readjust it or no?

 

[MrMarty51]

Anyone have part number for the seal? And if I pull the module to put in the seal do I have to readjust it or no?

There is a procedure. Look the module over. If there is a small hole all the way through it, see if a straightened paper clip will slide through it when the shifter is in park. I am not sure if that holds true with these modules though. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
If there is no alignment hole, disconnect the shift cable from the shift lever, the lever I believe will need to be removed, at least thats the way on the old ones.Then unbolt the module and slide it straight off.
The seal should be right under that, around the shaft.
I believe it will be called a shift shaft seal.
Figure out where it is leaking from first, before worring about that removal of that module.
I might be all wrong on the procedure. Someone please jump in if I am. I have replaced those modules before but that has been twenty years past.

 

[Husker6.5]

There is a special procedure and tool needed to keep the module indexed to the shaft. Whatever you do, make certain the shift lever is in Park and that the center insert inside the module that slips over the transmission's selector shaft does not move when you remove the module.

 

[MrMarty51]

And scribe around the bolts/screws holding that module down.
You want the entire contraption in the exact same pos ition that it was before pulling it offt.