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Tune, resistors and tcc

The last two have me confused... The bellhousing with the nine on it is the one that came out of the truck the one with the seven on it is the one I put in... Any idea what that means?
 
First pic, pan and ? ? ? ? It dont look real good.
Solenoid, looks like a solder job next to the cap. Also, can see the crack from the stud outwards to the near edge. It’ll work for now. If the starter is good, just get a new solenoid and have it ready to go.
Transmission valve body and wire harnesses looks okay to My untrained eye.
 
That huge grit in the pan was the old tranny or the new one ?

trying to think on the higher rpm to catch could possibly be something in the new converter. Was there a spec sheet for it or what’s the mfg and part number you got. Might also be just the solenoids in the tranny or valve body sticky from sitting. If that’s the case it may work it’s self out in a few drives
 
Man, I hope those first two pictures with all that ground up clutch material in the bottom of the pan was the pan off the old transmission, not the new. No clue on the different numbers cast on the bellhousings, maybe year of casting/assembly? Perhaps @THEFERMANATOR would know.

Meantime, with that delay issue, baby it when you're driving in case it's an internal issue.

Good job, @Stoney! To paraphrase The Beatles, "You got installed with a little help from your friends!" Now, off to work tomorrow!
 
All the grit and debris is the pan from the tranny I blew up... debating on if it's worth rebuilding for a spare since both trucks I own have same tranny..( I'm working on my 200 gmc 3500 my old friend gave me when I got out ..it's beat up but runs awesome and it's the truck that got me back on my feet so it's staying till I die).
On to the delayed response, I wonder if its because the flex pipe I'm using for a crossover pipe is leaking like hell, maybe it's causing there to not be as high of RPMs..no clue. I'll find spec sheet for the converter...or the part number..
Gonna see what I can do about getting a new solenoid.

MrMarty51 said:
Wonderful news, aaaand, You did it all by yourself. WOW.
Click to expand...
You are wrong @MrMarty51 ........
I didn't do this by myself..I did it with the help of the best mechanical crew I know..
ALL OF YOU GUYS that have been guiding me through this and giving me the knowledge to do the job...
I seriously owe everyone of you!!
THANK YOU MY FRIENDS
 
What type of clams did you use on the flex pipe? I just installed some 3” flex on my down pipe one end I used a band clamp and the other I had to use a standard horseshoe clamp. My band clamp is leaking a bit where the horseshoe clamp sealed good and I didn’t have to crank down on it too much!

something I learned at the shop I work at is when they had issues getting flex pipe to seal good they’d apply a good coat of red rtv silicone on the pipe and then slide the flex pipe over it and clamp it. That stuff works wonders and withstands the heat
 
I used horseshoe clamps. But Now that I look at it I think I missed something..the driverside of the pipe that I left on is loose from the coupling where it goes into the manifold you can grab it and move it around..gonna have to get the new crossover pipe on...
That reminds me, when I do that is there any kind of seal or donut gasket or whatever that goes in there between the manifold and crossover pipe?
 
I think there is a donut gasket that goes in there.
soak the nuts on the flange using some PB blaster in them every day for a week or so and then when you’ve got the downtime available then try removing them.

I have one stud broken on my driver’s side that I haven’t messed with. It was leaking. I ended up getting a small can of furnace cement and fiberglass exhaust wrap. Stuffed the cement in there good and wrapped it. Got a small C clamp from HarborFreight and winched it down. I did that as a temporary fix several months ago thinking if tackle it and fix it right soon. To this day it’s still holding and no leaks!

the C clamp is on the flange and manifold taking the place of the broken stud Looks hideous but it worked lol
 
If I can remember. I’ll try to post a photo of the hideous looking repair I did if it might help for ideas of a bandaid fix
 
Yeah, soak those nuts real good. If they already are loose, that is good. Soak them good for a week or two, then try screwing them back on, for the thickness of the nut, if there is that much slack and if they will turn at all. Before backing them off, squirt them down some more then unscrew them. If they begin to feel tight-stop- squirt them down and screw them back on. Keep going back and forth until they might come completerly offt. Then, attempt the other side.
Oh yeah, I guess that is forth then back. How can it go back if it has not first went forth. 😹😹😹😹 My Dad would always say that. 😹😹😹
That PB blaster is some stinky stuff but it works mighty good.
 
Yes, that transmission you just pulled is definitely worth rebuilding! As it is basically a TH400 with an overdrive section there are all sorts of TH400 parts available to make it a stronger unit, the best being a 32 sprag forged direct drum and going with heavy duty clutches and steels. Sonnax valve body upgrade kit, a Transgo shift kit and low-stall triple clutch torque converter and you'll have a pretty much bulletproof 250,000 4L80E!
 
Stoney said:
Awesome I appreciate it man...I'll try anything once lol...but um dumb question... how are you going to get that stuff off when you get around to fixing it.
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I hadn't thought about getting the stuff off lol I heard the hotter it gets the harder it gets. maybe the wire wheel on the grinder or the flap disk will take it off when I get around to pulling the manifold. since it's still holding and no leaks I figured if it aint broke dont fix it lol.
 
I've got a used engine or a parts truck on my wish list. hopfully it and my current engine will last that long until I find one had have the funds to get it!! :)

heck, if I find one with 4x4, my truck might turn into a parts truck lol
 
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