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Tune, resistors and tcc

Can I start the engine with the cross over pipe off? To check if the starter is going to work? Only asking cause the starter is alot easier to get to with the cross over pipe off in case I have to drop it back out
 
You can start it without the crossover pipe. Post a photo of the starter solenoid so we can see what’s going on. If there’s already a nut on the tiny stud then you just need to hold the stud with some at the threads and try tightening that nut then slide the wire on and another nut
 
Another question..on the big plug that goes in module on side of tranny ( where the linkage is) are there supposed to be little black disk like things on the end of the where the holes are? Or did they pull out of the old tranny? There flat and squarish, and have holes in them that look like the line up with the pin holes on the plug
 
@Stoney yeah, don't try to pull the stud out of the solenoid, if it's pushed back in (not sheared off) just pull it out enough, gently, that you feel the flange on the end of it hit up against the insulator that keeps it from grounding to the solenoid body. Be gentle with the needle nose, that copper is kinda soft and you don't want to mash up the threads. Then tighten down the nut tight enough against the insulator to hold the stud in place. When you put the ring terminal on and then the second nut, make sure everything is shiny bright clean and you don't have to crank very tight on that little nut - you risk either spinning the stud and breaking it off the wire inside the solenoid or torquing the stud in two. Usually, there's a split washer that goes between the nut and ring, once squashed flat you're tight enough, just a few inch/pounds of torque.
 
I have a feeling that squared area in the Bakelite has been rounded off and why the stud is spinning. Trying to snug the nut up as best as possible would be it’s only hope I’m afraid
 
I don't think so, but I have neither an old-style starter solenoid, nor an Old Style, to check with to find out! 🤣 I do have the old starter from the Burb sitting on the cab floor of the 94, though.
 
I have a feeling that squared area in the Bakelite has been rounded off and why the stud is spinning. Trying to snug the nut up as best as possible would be it’s only hope I’m afraid
That's why you gently hold the stud with some needle nose pliers (hopefully with the serrated jaws 'threaded' with the threads on the stud while you tighten the nut up against the insulator) to keep it from spinning and twisting off the wire that powers the solenoid on the back of the stud.
 
It's ALIVVVVEEE, ITS ALIVE!!!!.. she's off the operating table!!!....
Ok one small issue,. I have to rev the engine slightly before the transmission catch's...but once it's rolling it runs good...any idea why?
 
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