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Trouble Code and Head Gasket Questions

When I purchased the burb the owner didn't reference the cooling problem. It didn't take long to figure out that there was an issue...the very next day I had a low coolant alarm. After filling the tank a number of times and letting the air out of the screw I borrowed the pressure tester from Advance Auto. The cap was bad and with some dye, we found that there were a few spots leaking coolant. The water pump had a leak so we have a new unit to install tomorrow. With 190k miles it was about time. We purchased the burb at 186k miles.

In the past 2k miles we've been losing quite a bit of coolant. We'll be driving and then stop and quite a bit of coolant would burp out of the overflow tube. It was time for the gasket.
 
Did you pick up a high output (130GPM) water pump for a 97/98 6.5? The original 90GPM pumps on 92-96 were lower flow obviously, but also much worse balance of flow, with like 75% of it to the drivers side. Although I always recommend the water pump for a 2000 6.5 and the thread on fan clutch with DMax fan (but thats more money).
 
Good for you.......and you should be good for another 200K.....Any real problems taking the heads off?


BTW, Just coolant loss or did you see any change in temps?
 
Buddy - I thought about doing quite a bit of upgrades to this motor and decided against it. This one has 190k on it. I figure if it goes another 100k without too much issue I'll be satisfied. My intent will be to replace with a built motor on the next upgrade. Funny enough it was the driver side that blew.

Louis - Taking the heads off just took time and some maneuvering to get to them prior to getting them off. Lots of parts to come off. I was expecting issues with the exhaust manifold, but the bolts came out easily. After the head bolts were out, it did require a screwdriver and a pound with a hammer to get the head loose. We definitely saw changes in temps. When we had steady driving it was fine...but when we slowed to a light or stopped and then started again, sometimes it would heat up very quickly, but I believe that was just air at the thermostat. Sometimes it would just resolve itself when the coolant came around and then sometimes I'd pull over and let the air out the vent screw (this was 80% of the time while I was trying to figure out what was going on).

I do want to clarify something here...my 16 and 14 year old have done all of the physical work. I have been very impressed with their work ethic, organization (setting the push rods, etc. in a very organized, neat pattern for re-assembly). It's wonderful to have a boys that want to work hard and learn. I am counseling them along the project and they are also checking the forum for responses to my questions while I'm at work.
 
have them look at the pics of 88gmctrucks thread to see what proper preperation looks like before reassembly. He did an amazing job of cleaning/prep.
 
Great input...will do. First thing tomorrow they put on the new water pump. I'll have them look at the thread. Thanks.
 
Don't worry about those cracks, mine looked the same and I put them back on. I wouldn't waste the 100$ on the pressure test after seeing those gaskets but that is me. I took my chances and the truck so far is fine. Then again I had no intention of putting heads on it anyway so if it leaked I was going to cut it up for parts so that is probably why it worked...rof: . I would chase the headbolt holes. JMHO. Be a bitch if one leaked...
 
If purchasing an OEM water pump for it, the OEM for 97/98 wont cost you more, and its an important reliability modification. It bolts right up and you dont have to get a new clutch and fan to use it, all bolts right up. although the old clutch may not lock up right anymore and the 6 blade metal fans are inefficient. Combined with the fan clutch set to engage too late all led to common engine problems that GM tried to address in 1997 with water pump and fan change, and improved further in 2000.

I actually have one new in the box if youd like to buy one, its an ACDelco, and I decided to go with the 2000 year pump when I change it. Changing it will become a priority if it fails or I decide to tow anything any good distance.
 
Thanks much for the offer, Buddy. I have a time limitation to get our primary people mover going again. In addition, with 11 mouths to feed, funding is tight :) Thus, I'll just budget and save for the replacement long block in the future...but I do appreciate it much!
 
Boys have new water pump on, one of the heads, and are working to get the next on. They expect to have it all buttoned up by tomorrow evening. Fluids, oil filter and we should be good on starting her up.
 
Question on the IP connections. The boys are doing really well and should have the 6.5 buttoned up for starting this evening. With that said I'm curious to know the best way of dealing with getting air out of the lines. Would we want to leave them loose and crank it over until we see fuel leaking...or can I get a suggestion on a good method for this?
 
leave the ones on the drivers side loose and the front one on the pass side. Tighten the last 3 on pass side cause you won't be able to get to them easily. The 5 open ones should be enough, just make sure the batts are strong. If the fuel system is in good order it should fire off pretty easily but once you lock the lines down don't expect it to sound smooth. It can take a bit for the air to still work out and the motor will sound loud until it does.
 
My hat is off to you and your wife!!! Using this as a way to do homeschooling, and work ethics, is fantastic!!!

Don
 
You can leave the lines loose at the injectors, however they will blead themselves eventually, and you may only have to crank once to do that without loose lines. Just make sure to bleed the air pre-IP, so open the drain and run the LP until you have good fuel flow, tighten the T-valve while pumping fuel, stop powering the LP after it pressurizes the line with the valve closed. Then you can loosen the IP inlet and run the LP to push any air out between FFM and IP. You will leak some fuel, can just put rags around it. Tighten up the clamp while the fuel is flowing out of it, and stop powering LP after system is pressurized with the whole system buttoned up.
 
buddy said:
You can leave the lines loose at the injectors, however they will blead themselves eventually, and you may only have to crank once to do that without loose lines. Just make sure to bleed the air pre-IP, so open the drain and run the LP until you have good fuel flow, tighten the T-valve while pumping fuel, stop powering the LP after it pressurizes the line with the valve closed. Then you can loosen the IP inlet and run the LP to push any air out between FFM and IP. You will leak some fuel, can just put rags around it. Tighten up the clamp while the fuel is flowing out of it, and stop powering LP after system is pressurized with the whole system buttoned up.
Click to expand...

Ok, good deal...passing on to boys :)
 
If he did not mess with the FFM that will probably not be necessary unless of course you opened the fuel supply lines as well. Engine parts are gonna be hell on that nice tile floor...:rof:
 
Acesneights1 said:
If he did not mess with the FFM that will probably not be necessary unless of course you opened the fuel supply lines as well. Engine parts are gonna be hell on that nice tile floor...:rof:
Click to expand...

It will be clean when they are done ;) The FFM wasn't messed with.
 
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