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Transmission core

If that's what the market is paying for a blown up transmission as an outright core (without a trade-in for a remanned one) then that's what they're paying, even if it seems low at $100. Consider they'll dump at least another $200 in parts - or even more if planetary, etc damage - to bring it back up to OEM - without touching the valvebody. Add in labor and a torque converter and they may easily have $1400-1600 in it before resale at $2200 for a reman unit.
 
It would definitely be. But can't find a spindle. No sense changing some parts and not other parts . Don't want to risk contaminating new parts .. I'll find one soon.
 
Quick question for y'all. Theres a ground wire that comes out of the harness that goes all the way to back of the truck. It goes up on top of the frame and is grounded with the plug for the fuel tank. What all is that ground wire for? I dropped the old tank out of the truck today so while I was in there I cleaned up that ground (it was nasty) just wondering what it goes to
 
Quick question for y'all. Theres a ground wire that comes out of the harness that goes all the way to back of the truck. It goes up on top of the frame and is grounded with the plug for the fuel tank. What all is that ground wire for? I dropped the old tank out of the truck today so while I was in there I cleaned up that ground (it was nasty) just wondering what it goes to
That ground is the ground wire for the lift pump and fuel gauge. don't ask how I found out lol your LP won't run without it unless you've re-wired it in the past!
 
On my 99 the ground wire came from the front through the harness split at the LP and then went back to the fuel tank. Didn't go any further than that. It was black. There's also a white wire in the back that ends near the end of the frame that is also a ground which can be confusing if looking at a diagram.
 
After rereading this I remembered that the LP ground point is the ground by the fuel tank which is usually one of the first to corrode. My second ground I ran grounds to a ground bussbar I have under the hood, much less susceptible to corrosion.
 
It was pretty rusty. I shined it and the frame up pretty good.. I obviously had to unplug the sending unit since I removed the fuel tank. I wrapped the plug in a Ziploc bag so it won't get filled with dirt or moisture while driving. scrapping the tank but I saved the sending unit since it's still good.. one day I might be able to put a actual tank back in the truck and might need it ... For now the transfer tank works fine though.. plus I got all the fuel out of the old tank (about 18 gallons) that has just been sitting in there the past 6 months.. so now that's not going to waste.
 
depending on the the transfer tank shape and setup, you can get sending units for them that have the same ohm ratings as the factory sending units. I think bosch makes one that reads 0-90 ohms. only thing is that the sender part is up side down as to how our gauge works. that is a simple modification to flip it on the sender.
 
Not the right thread but can't find the right one...
Which scanner do you need to cycle the ABS.? I finally found a spindle for the truck..and I'm putting the new AC Delco calipers on and new hoses new pads. Delco master cylinder, new bearings in the rotors. I want to cycle the abs while bleeding it and see if I get any better results
 
Also I discovered something.. the master cylinder I got from Rock Auto is not the same as the one AutoZone sold me a long time ago when I originally did the brake work on the truck couple years ago when all the problems started... .. so I ran the VIN number through AutoZone's website. And the master cylinder it pulled up is not the one they sold me ..but it is the same one RockAuto sold me. The new R.a. calipers look a tiny bit bigger but that could be My imagination.. (Remember everything I got from RockAuto is AC Delco nothing reman and nothing off brand.) I'm wondering if I have the rehydrous down there now because I replaced to that at one time too.
The thing that's messing me up is I remember @WarWagon mentioning one time that some of the trucks like mine have a door sticker for 10,000 pounds and some have a door sticker for 8,000 and some odd pounds... After running the VIN on mine it is a 10,000 pound one ton.. usually when I bought parts from AutoZone they just put in the year make model and kind of engine. And 2wheel drive... That's really making me question is there a difference between the 8000 lb and 10,000 pound brake system.. because all the parts I had bought before would be the wrong ones which evidently would still bolt up if that is so but that doesn't mean they would work right..
I put the new spindle on today but did not get the caliper mounted yet and such due to weather.. if anybody's got any ideas or input please let me know
 
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