• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Transmission core

I could be wrong, but I think the HB is the same for these trucks SRW and DRW. it's the MC that makes the difference. in pics I have seen on RA and other sites, the fluid reservoir on the 10,000lb + is larger than the one for the lighter weight one. the rod that's in the HB that pushes on the MC may also be different length, but that can be changed without pulling the HB if needed. try looking up on RA for the MC for a 10,000 lb truck and see if that matches what you have installed, they should list the bore size (inside diameter of the MC piston wall) you can measure by un-bolting the MC from the HB and not having to loosen the brake lines.
 
I believe I now have the right master cylinder on the truck.( The one from RockAuto) and changed the calipers to the ac Delco ones.. unfortunately I still have not changed the brake hoses because I'm not sure how to get them off of the metal lines without breaking them. The truck seems to be doing a lot better. Doesn't feel like it drags anymore constantly now it is once in awhile usually right after takeoff. And it usually goes away pretty quick. (Under a minute usually) there has been a time or two that it dragged for quite a while but that's the exception now not the norm..
I got thinking about something this morning, when you put the caliper into the bracket, I'm sure y'all have had that fight trying to wiggle it in there. Seems there's only a microscopic amount of clearance for it to slide in. So that got me thinking should I grease the bracket and caliper where they slide together against each other? Wouldn't take much for a caliper to hang up on that bracket when it's trying to release. I know they don't actually slide on it very much but it wouldn't take much either to hang up.. and it would explain why after a little while it breaks loose when it does hang up hit a bump or something and it breaks loose and rotor can spin free. I thought about loosening them up and putting something bearing Grease on them but wasn't sure if that would be effective or a risk of it getting down into the brake pads. What is y'alls thoughts?
Other issue , I remember telling you all that I've had to cut the back brake line going off the ABS to the back of the truck and pinch It off. Does anybody know what size brake line that is? Remember mine is 10,000 pound truck, I would trust y'all's knowledge more than AutoZone computer on this.
 
Yes, a LIGHT shmear of Hi-Temp Synthetic Disc Brake Grease on the caliper pins and any contact points between the caliper and bracket is a must to prevent binding and corrosion and should be part of any pad change/brake servicing. You want to use a light, thin coating of the grease on exposed areas to prevent excess grease from winding up contaminating a pad(s). Since they carry the weight of the caliper and are protected by rubber boots, a generous coat of grease all around the pin/bushing (if still using the old, two piece, style) or new one piece pin is fine.
 
@Husker6.5 @ak diesel driver .. thank you. I knew to grease the pins. (Although didn't know there was a specific grease for it.)
But never knew to grease top and bottom of caliper where it makes contact with the bracket.. (the flat surface on top and bottom).. I should have figured that should be greased since the calipers fit so tightly in there.i always have to fight them in and out when I pull the calipers..
 
On your front lines where they connect to the hoses, you'd benefit greatly by using a can of PB Blaster on them and letting them soak for a few days. spray the nut area down at least once or twice a day for about a week. then when your ready, unclip the hose from the bracket where you can grab it with some vice grips while loosening the line nut. (use a line wrench on the nut) as it loosens pay very close attention to the line to make sure the nut has broken free from the line and not making the line twist.

If it's twisting with the nut, FULL STOP!

slowly try rotating the hose and hold the line nut steady no the allow it to twist the line at all. you should be able to remove the hose this way. be sure to rotate back n fourth as you remove it so the threads don't get galded. install the new hose in the same manor and re insert the clip in the bracket.
 
on the rear line, where abouts did it blow out and where did you cut and pinch it? I think the nut threads are metric but not sure about the line size. if the line size is metric, most auto parts houses won't stock replacement sections. you will most likely need to get you a coil of stainless tubing and some replacement brake line nuts along with a flaring tool to build the lines. using stainless tubing is great in the rust belt area too! just get you a tubing bender for brake line so you don't kink any areas while building it. Oh and you'll need a steel tubing cutter too.

since the line is pinched and cut, it's fairly safe to start pulling that line out of the truck starting from where you cut it back to the rear tee over the rear axle. use it as a template for building the new line.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Haha. Learning to shift a three on a tree was fun in it's self! the granny 4 speeds are fun too! especially when the neighbors are trying to remove a stump in their yard. I come over with a chain and the truck to have some fun lol. back in the day that was.
Click to expand...
I learned to drive on 3 on the tree vehicles. I tried to teach my wife to drive a manual transmission on a 3 on the tree.

I had always heard that you couldn't shift from first to reverse , she proved that to be a fallacy.
Luckily it was a damp road and the rear tires broke free. No damage done. I did pucker just a little.

After that her brother took her out in a grain truck and she caught on pretty quickly. Transitioning to the 3 on the tree after that went pretty easy
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top