Brooklyn Tow
9 11 Never Forget
No....The cubby hole in the dash under the climate control.....and the contour into the ashtray looks perfect, thats the cubby you thought I was asking about?....good spot for the gauges.
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The "restification" of a 98 6.5 TD...
- Thread starter great white
- Start date
No....The cubby hole in the dash under the climate control.....and the contour into the ashtray looks perfect, thats the cubby you thought I was asking about?....good spot for the gauges.
great white
Well-Known Member
Oh, the spot where the cd player was. That's boost and EGT gauges.
There's 4 more of the same style going in the console.
My ashtray was broken and screwed shut, so I dumped it and made the gauge pillar there.
great white
Well-Known Member
just bought a devils own stage 2 injection kit NIB for 230 bucks.
Retails new for 360
Now I can make use of my 3 bar map sensor for more than just reading boost:
Kinda what I had planned all along....
Retails new for 360
Now I can make use of my 3 bar map sensor for more than just reading boost:
Kinda what I had planned all along....
rbtaylor14
New Member
What do you mean by using your 3 bar map sensor to read your boost? I guess I don't understand and don't see from the photo. I want to hook up my new boost gage with out drilling, but just haven yet. Could you tell me a little more please. :tiphat
great white
Well-Known Member
Sorry. you gotta drill.
Unless you want to buy a "boost bolt".
Available from a couple vendors on site.
My boost gauge is digital, hence the need for the 3 bar map sensor....look for the bright green plug in the picture
great white
Well-Known Member
You know what?
I'm tird of trying to chase down a new exhaust.
I'm going to order a 3" down pipe and use the 3" system I have hanging in the garage.
The system I have has a Magnaflow 3" in/out high flow converter (keeping it all mniiiice and legal, see?), a 3" in/out cherry bomb elite (really is 3", not necked down inside like most are) and 3" pipe.
The pipe isn't "mandrel bent" but it's not "crinkle bent either".
It from my 89 eclb, so same length as my 98. Here's a clippy of it on my 89 350:
[video=youtube;FMiMdIGL7Q0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMiMdIGL7Q0[/video]
At worst, I'll have to get a small piece made up to go from the down pipe to the converter.
All done for around 200 bucks (price of downpipe and shipping).
I'll give the aluminized pipe a nice coat of black header paint like I did for the 2.5 inch crossover pipe.
I'll have barely cracked $500 bucks on my $1500 total.
Got's lots o' money left over for my fluidampr now!
I'm tird of trying to chase down a new exhaust.
I'm going to order a 3" down pipe and use the 3" system I have hanging in the garage.
The system I have has a Magnaflow 3" in/out high flow converter (keeping it all mniiiice and legal, see?), a 3" in/out cherry bomb elite (really is 3", not necked down inside like most are) and 3" pipe.
The pipe isn't "mandrel bent" but it's not "crinkle bent either".
It from my 89 eclb, so same length as my 98. Here's a clippy of it on my 89 350:
[video=youtube;FMiMdIGL7Q0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMiMdIGL7Q0[/video]
At worst, I'll have to get a small piece made up to go from the down pipe to the converter.
All done for around 200 bucks (price of downpipe and shipping).
I'll give the aluminized pipe a nice coat of black header paint like I did for the 2.5 inch crossover pipe.
I'll have barely cracked $500 bucks on my $1500 total.
Got's lots o' money left over for my fluidampr now!
great white
Well-Known Member
Little bit o' work done today.
Pulled out the idler arm and the pivot bracket. That's been wanting some attention since I bought it. Not supper sloppy, but the arm had a bit of play at the center link and the pivot was loose enough to spin around with a couple fingers.
So I put in new Moog problem solver parts.
They came in raw cast iron and had a light coat of surface rust already. So I sprayed 'em down, cleaned 'em off, wire wheeled 'em and sprayed 'em both in gloss engine black.
About 7 coats and then a nice long sit under the heat lamps so it's nice and tough.
The pivot also had a neat little extension hose to the grease fitting that put it right out into the open for easy access through the wheel well.
Pulled out the idler arm and the pivot bracket. That's been wanting some attention since I bought it. Not supper sloppy, but the arm had a bit of play at the center link and the pivot was loose enough to spin around with a couple fingers.
So I put in new Moog problem solver parts.
They came in raw cast iron and had a light coat of surface rust already. So I sprayed 'em down, cleaned 'em off, wire wheeled 'em and sprayed 'em both in gloss engine black.
About 7 coats and then a nice long sit under the heat lamps so it's nice and tough.
The pivot also had a neat little extension hose to the grease fitting that put it right out into the open for easy access through the wheel well.
great white
Well-Known Member
My heater grid showed up in the mail yesterday:
http://www.frostfighter.com/prt2600.htm
I only ordered the grid, my truck has a rear defogger grid control in the dash already.
I'll be installing it on the truck cap rear window today and hooking it up to the rear defroster grid control along with the heat fro my dodge mirrors.
Windows fog up like crazy here (dogs in the back don't help either). At first I thought I had a bad heater core, but everyone's car ends up the same way. The cab even fogs up with the heater on high to the point where half the side windows are fog and it starts to creep in arond the edges of the front window!
This will make things nice and clear again. well, in the back window of the truck cap at least.
http://www.frostfighter.com/prt2600.htm
I only ordered the grid, my truck has a rear defogger grid control in the dash already.
I'll be installing it on the truck cap rear window today and hooking it up to the rear defroster grid control along with the heat fro my dodge mirrors.
Windows fog up like crazy here (dogs in the back don't help either). At first I thought I had a bad heater core, but everyone's car ends up the same way. The cab even fogs up with the heater on high to the point where half the side windows are fog and it starts to creep in arond the edges of the front window!
This will make things nice and clear again. well, in the back window of the truck cap at least.
handcannon
Well-Known Member
Just to give you a heads up. If this grid is like one I had a number of years ago, they are very fragile. They work good, but it doesn't take much of a rub or scratch to damage the foil that makes up the grid. I'm just thinking about your dogs and how most dogs like to scratch at things at times. You may already know about the fragility and have a plan to protect the grid from the errant dog toenail, but I want you to be aware in case.
Don
Don
great white
Well-Known Member
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
No prob.
Dogs go into a crate in the bed.
But of course they do.
Custom fabbed, and probably nicer than the one in my house:thumbsup:
great white
Well-Known Member
Actually, it's just a plain ol' store bought crate.
But I do have plans to make one into the truck cap. Basically the front 1/4 of the bed, divided down the middle, with a door for each side. All removable by loosening a couple clamps on the bottom and pulling it out of a couple mounts in the roof.
The rear of the cap is getting a couple boxes molded into the wall to hold dog collars and toys, plus a dispenser for ...ahem...."doggy bags". There's going to be one long, shallow box with a long door along one corner of the roof for items like fishing rods and rifles. Haven't' figured out something for my compound bow yet though
I've already got a rack built to hold the dog leashes so they can hang and dry.
Water is a different story, I've just got a insulted jug strapped to the wall right now. I'll probably stay with that as it's easy to remove and clean as opposed to something "built in". Hmmm, maybe I can make something to hold water for my water injection kit that will double as a water jug for the dogs. One way check valve in the WMI line to prevent bleed back, spigot for pouring......hmmmm.......
The interior of the cap is going to be insulated and lined. Probably throw in a full bed rug too.
I'm in the process of changing out all the rusty steel fasteners for stainless.
Been toying with the idea of AC and heat in the bed too.
Then, color matched to the truck when I get to the point where it all gets redone.
In case you haven't guessed, I plan to keep this truck for a loooooong time.....
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great white
Well-Known Member
Found a local place today that sells the push lok fittings and adapters I need for the fuel system.
Cheap too!
$1.58 a foot for the 1/2" 300 psi push lok hose.
I bought two straight swivels, two Racor adapters and a swivel to 1/4" pipe adapter for 6 bucks!
We've been getting torrential rains and high winds here for the last couple days. Roads are getting washed out and bridges are closed. The winds only gave the truck a little shake now and then and she just motored right over the washed out and flooded roads. All the little cars were all over the place and stuck behind anything more than a few inches of water running over the roads.
The Ol' GMC just shrugged it all off.
What a great ol' truck!
Cheap too!
$1.58 a foot for the 1/2" 300 psi push lok hose.
I bought two straight swivels, two Racor adapters and a swivel to 1/4" pipe adapter for 6 bucks!
We've been getting torrential rains and high winds here for the last couple days. Roads are getting washed out and bridges are closed. The winds only gave the truck a little shake now and then and she just motored right over the washed out and flooded roads. All the little cars were all over the place and stuck behind anything more than a few inches of water running over the roads.
The Ol' GMC just shrugged it all off.
What a great ol' truck!
great white
Well-Known Member
All lined up and ready to go:
Like I've always said:
"If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right"
All I need now is a bit of decent weather.....:rolleyes5:
Like I've always said:
"If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right"
All I need now is a bit of decent weather.....:rolleyes5:
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great white
Well-Known Member
Quick photochop of the gauges installed int eh lower console and wallpaper on the touch screen:
Here's where I'm thinking the WMI progressive controller will go:
Running out of space again......:doh:
Here's where I'm thinking the WMI progressive controller will go:
Running out of space again......:doh:
great white
Well-Known Member
well, the devils own kit is in the mail.
Now I need a water reservoir.
Pretty sure I've got the location figured out. It will be strapped to the frame on the passenger side under the bedside and forward of the wheel.
This will place the pump and the reservoir below the level of the nozzles to prevent siphoning into the intake.
I was going to buy the water level sensor of Devils own site for 27 buck, but a quick check of ebay revealed a vendor selling the exact same sensor for 10 busks shipped for two. :sneaky:
The tank itself is another problem.
I've thought of every thing from aluminum tanks to plastic fuel and water cans to fiberglassing my own design.
Then, I ran across this water tank:
The design is pretty cool. A lower reservoir for good feed and the vertical "tubes" would prevent sloshing.
If I can make one that will hold 5-8 gallons, we may have a winner......
Now I need a water reservoir.
Pretty sure I've got the location figured out. It will be strapped to the frame on the passenger side under the bedside and forward of the wheel.
This will place the pump and the reservoir below the level of the nozzles to prevent siphoning into the intake.
I was going to buy the water level sensor of Devils own site for 27 buck, but a quick check of ebay revealed a vendor selling the exact same sensor for 10 busks shipped for two. :sneaky:
The tank itself is another problem.
I've thought of every thing from aluminum tanks to plastic fuel and water cans to fiberglassing my own design.
Then, I ran across this water tank:
The design is pretty cool. A lower reservoir for good feed and the vertical "tubes" would prevent sloshing.
If I can make one that will hold 5-8 gallons, we may have a winner......
Brooklyn Tow
9 11 Never Forget
What kind of gauges are those....and are they dual function?......6 Gauges, 6 readings or 12 readings....all digital, no analog, you must have plenty of faith in good Trons and electrical connections in your rig.
great white
Well-Known Member
http://www.auberins.com/
Single function.
And yup, I do.
Whether it's an electric gauge that sweeps a needle or displays a number is irrelevant. It's the quality of the sender that matters and these gauges can be calibrated to read any pressure or temperature sender on the market.
The auber gauges also have built in programmable warning lights and have a programmable out in order to control a relay to activate something isf you want (IE:water injection, warning light, etc.....)
My helicopter is all digital and LCD screens, so digital gauges are what i am used to now.
great white
Well-Known Member
Started working on the fuel delivery system today. Was hoping to get it all done, but I had one adapter that was wrong so no dice. I consoled myself by doing some prep work. I'm going 1/2 push lok right up to the fuel manager and the fewer reducers/adapters in the system teh better. My raptor 100 is all 1/2 fittings, so that made up my mind to go with 1/2 fittings all the way.
So, the nipple on the fuel manager had to be changed on the body:
Pipe wrench makes quick work of removing the nipple
Pic o the old nipple, the 1/4 NPT adapter and the 1/4 npt tap:
since the 1/4 NPT tap requires a bigger tap handle than my kit, I just slip it into a 12 pt 13MM socket and start running it into the now drilled out to 7/16 hole:
Little bit of cutting oil and some light work results in some nice clean new threads:
Oopps. Gotta get the whole thing clean again, time for a trip through the parts washer:
Now to install the adapter for the push lok fitting:
And finally, assembled and ready for reassembly:
Now it's going to be 1/2 push lok from the tank to 14" prefilter to the raptor 100 to the the fuel manager.
Overkill?
Yup.
Just the way I like it!
So, the nipple on the fuel manager had to be changed on the body:
Pipe wrench makes quick work of removing the nipple
Pic o the old nipple, the 1/4 NPT adapter and the 1/4 npt tap:
since the 1/4 NPT tap requires a bigger tap handle than my kit, I just slip it into a 12 pt 13MM socket and start running it into the now drilled out to 7/16 hole:
Little bit of cutting oil and some light work results in some nice clean new threads:
Oopps. Gotta get the whole thing clean again, time for a trip through the parts washer:
Now to install the adapter for the push lok fitting:
And finally, assembled and ready for reassembly:
Now it's going to be 1/2 push lok from the tank to 14" prefilter to the raptor 100 to the the fuel manager.
Overkill?
Yup.
Just the way I like it!
zielinski.family
Member
Ok, I have been impressed by your workmanship! I have a 93 GMC and have been looking for options to run an after market audio system. The problem with the 93 is that the radio is in two parts: the main radio in in the dash next to the instrument panel and the tape deck is in the dash. If I remove the tape deck and go that route I then will have a useless radio in my dash. So...I saw your post about the auber gauges. How difficult are those to program and install? Will any sending unit plug into them or do you have to pre-program them. If so how difficult would that be? This would be the perfect solutions to my problem since I could remove the factory radio and fab up an instrument panel with these gauges.