The "restification" of a 98 6.5 TD...

[great white]

Ok, I have been impressed by your workmanship! I have a 93 GMC and have been looking for options to run an after market audio system. The problem with the 93 is that the radio is in two parts: the main radio in in the dash next to the instrument panel and the tape deck is in the dash. If I remove the tape deck and go that route I then will have a useless radio in my dash. So...I saw your post about the auber gauges. How difficult are those to program and install? Will any sending unit plug into them or do you have to pre-program them. If so how difficult would that be? This would be the perfect solutions to my problem since I could remove the factory radio and fab up an instrument panel with these gauges.

On my 89, I put the radio in the center of the dash with the adapter kit.

Then I put the stock cubby in where the factory radio head was. In to that, I installed my Sat radio (when I had one).

I don't think you would get anymore than two auber gauges into an 88-94 style dash but I could be wrong.

The auber gauges can be programmed to any sensor. Unfortunately, you need to know the voltage ranges for the sensor you use. The instructions are included with the guages. Or, if you look Auberins up on ebay, they have the instruction links posted in the auctions. They may have them on their web site also.

Of course, you can always buy the gauges and sensors off their web site as a package. They have quality sensors and they already have the values worked out for you.

I like them because of their form factor and the ability to control other features.

Anyways, I'll stop before this turns into a huge sales pitch and sign off with:

I like 'em.

 

[great white]

Well, the quest for a water tank that will fit into the space I want is proving fruitless. My wants for a 7-8 gallon tank that will fit in the odd space I have are just too specific. Looks like I'll be making my own out of fiberglass.

The plan:

I'll make a 2 steel hoops out of 4" wide 1/8" flat steel and cover them in 'glass. These will have a couple purposes. They will form baffles in the tank to minimize sloshing and provide a reinforced area to put straps around so the tank won't crush. they will have holes across the top and bottom of the web to keep the levels even.

Once these webs are built, I'll make a Styrofoam form of the tank around them. This will allow me the freedom to make the tank into the shape I need to fit the space and give me the volume I want. I'll incorporate a two level sump in to the shape so the water pickup is covered in low level situations. the lowest level of the sump will have a drain for winter and removing crud.

I'll stick a filler tube with cap that will come out somewhere accessible (wheel well probably) into it.

Most likely will make an access panel on the top also.

A quick coat of something on the foam to resist the polyester resin and lay it all up.

Then, a solvent (acetone, gas, etc) will dissolve the foam and voila, custom water injection tank.

Couple holes for the pump feed and the water level sensor and then strap it into the truck...

 

[great white]

Went out today to get stared and finally finish the fuel system up grades.

Ah crap, sure enough I'm missing one fitting and the hydraulic store is closed today.

Oh well, might as well use the time to start some of it.

First up, mount the pre filter:

The filter is quite long and I wanted to tuck it up under the truck as much as possible so it's attached to the forward frame support rail of the bed.

I made a backing plate from 1/8 steel and welded two stainless steel bolts to it. Two holes in the support rail and slip the plate in behind. This reinforces the sheet metal and creates a stud mounting scheme.

Much easier to install and remove the head with studs instead of trying to fish around to find nuts inside the support rail. The filter is solid as a rock where it is.

Only thing is the water sensor hangs about 1" below the side of the bed. Once I change the 10 micron Volvo filter that came with the head for a Racor model, it will loose about 2" in length and it will all tuck up nicely behind the panel. For now, the Volvo filter is fine....... and paid for.....

The raptor pump is next on the list, but since it just bolt to the frame with the "sandwich plates" that came with it, I'll wait to bolt that sucker up.

The wiring for the pump is a little bit different. I don't want to power that large motor off the PCm and the oil pressure switch so a relay is in order. But where to mount is the question. Under the truck is wet and hard to access, so I found an open spot in the engine bay. My truck is an L65,so the spot on the firewall for the barometric sensor on te L56 is empty on my truck.

I fabbed up a little bracket, shot it with some black paint and now I have a nice spot to mount the relay that powers the pump and the fuse for the power also fits in nicely:

I made a bracket because I didn't want to cut the firewall insulation or crush it by screwing through it. Besides, this looks much neater and professional rather than a tacked on afterthought.

I did manage to mount a direct reading fuel gauge for adjusting the fuel pressure:

I had to mount it on the "in" side of the filter for size and space considerations. The "out" side would have been better for trouble shooting filter issues, but whatchagonna do? I may remove the whip hose and just mount it directly on the T fitting, haven't decided yet. I'll also probably have to change for a 90 degree fitting . It measures out fine to fit, but I'd like a bit more clearance at the firewall. This will stay in the engine bay for reference when working on the truck. Besides, engine mounted fuel gauges are just cool.

Lastly, I'll throw a little "teaser" out:

What the heck could I be using that thing for?

 

[ak diesel driver]

aux tank switch

 

[HighSierra86]

What the heck could I be using that thing for?

Havent heard you mention anything about one but.......a manual boost controler? or say boost limiter? Ive always wanted to fab something up like that for fuel mileage when cruising. Maybe great minds think alike?

 

[great white]

aux tank switch

Havent heard you mention anything about one but.......a manual boost controler? or say boost limiter? Ive always wanted to fab something up like that for fuel mileage when cruising. Maybe great minds think alike?

Both good and interesting guesses but:

Nope and nope.

 

[tightgroup]

well let see if I can reason my way out of this one...

It has to do with your new fuelling system, plus your aviation.

From my older fixed winged days, just loved priming the older Apaches or Aztecs, not to mention other beasts, so either its a priming system or just a manual drain replacing that 1/2 20# drain plug ..

 

[handcannon]

Looks like I'll be making my own out of fiberglass.

The plan:

I'll make a 2 steel hoops out of 4" wide 1/8" flat steel and cover them in 'glass.

Once these webs are built, I'll make a Styrofoam form of the tank around them.

A quick coat of something on the foam to resist the polyester resin and lay it all up.

Then, a solvent (acetone, gas, etc) will dissolve the foam and voila, custom water injection tank.

...

This intrigues me. You've already shown your fiberglass fab skills. The idea of using styrofoam gets my mind working. I have a project I've been mulling over in my mind for a while, but I need to learn glassing techniques. I have some questions for you if you don't mind taking the time to answer, or point me in the right direction.

What do you use to glue the styrofoam blocks/sheets together with? I'm a cabinetmaker so I'm familiar with a bunch of different glues, most of which will eat the styrofoam. There's carpenters glue, but it doesn't work well on plastic unless the semi-open structure of the foam allows it to adhere. Maybe a glue for melemine coated (plastic) surfaces?

What do you use to seal the foam before glassing?

This will probably keep me awake at night building my project in my mind as it provides another avenue I had never thought of.

Don

 

[great white]

well let see if I can reason my way out of this one...

It has to do with your new fuelling system, plus your aviation.

From my older fixed winged days, just loved priming the older Apaches or Aztecs, not to mention other beasts, so either its a priming system or just a manual drain replacing that 1/2 20# drain plug ..

LOL!

Good line of reasoning, but no.

I'll give out a hint, there's something missing in this picture that you should be able to use at any time:

 

[great white]

This intrigues me. You've already shown your fiberglass fab skills. The idea of using styrofoam gets my mind working. I have a project I've been mulling over in my mind for a while, but I need to learn glassing techniques. I have some questions for you if you don't mind taking the time to answer, or point me in the right direction.

What do you use to glue the styrofoam blocks/sheets together with? I'm a cabinetmaker so I'm familiar with a bunch of different glues, most of which will eat the styrofoam. There's carpenters glue, but it doesn't work well on plastic unless the semi-open structure of the foam allows it to adhere. Maybe a glue for melemine coated (plastic) surfaces?

What do you use to seal the foam before glassing?

This will probably keep me awake at night building my project in my mind as it provides another avenue I had never thought of.

Don

For "lost foam cores", I use wood glue to hold the layers together if I need a block larger than what I can purchase. I find wood glue holds sufficiently well to make a core form and lay up over it.

Before I lay up polyester resin (what you get at most hardware and auto stores and melts Styrofoam), I cover the foam in "tuck tape". The polyester resin won't stick to the tape once dry and it peels off. I often use a bit of spray on mold release just to make things a bit easier when removing the tape. I just make sure I can pour in a solvent to melt the foam. Once melted I pour out as much as I can and let the rest harden. Then reach in a peel the tape off the inner surface. Some guys use wood glue to coat their forms but I'm not a fan of that. It gets pretty messy.

Epoxy resins (available at most boat/marine supply stores) doesn't melt Styrofoam so can be used as it with a lost core foam plug.

Do a Google for lost foam core and lots of how to pages should show up.

 

[ak diesel driver]

there are several glues available for glueing foam. If your familiar with ICF (insulated concrete forms) there is a foam glue used to glue eps foam to just about anything. Also a glue that looks alot like liquid nails but is eps safe for glueing tub surronds and such.

 

[handcannon]

Thanks ak!!

Yes, I am familiar with ICF construction. I did not know they used any kind of glue on any part of assembling the blocks though, I will have to check that out. I have installed cabinets in many ICF houses. In my opinion they are the cats meow when it comes to heating/cooling and the reduction of exterior sound intrusion. A bit more iffy for hanging upper cabbinets on the wall though. Couple the ICF with in floor hot water heat and you have a very comfy house for heat.

I have installed the plastic tub surrounds before. But it has been a number of years and I forgot about that type of adhesive. Thanks for the reminder.

More avenues to check out.

Don

 

[great white]

Thanks ak!!

Yes, I am familiar with ICF construction. I did not know they used any kind of glue on any part of assembling the blocks though, I will have to check that out. I have installed cabinets in many ICF houses. In my opinion they are the cats meow when it comes to heating/cooling and the reduction of exterior sound intrusion. A bit more iffy for hanging upper cabbinets on the wall though. Couple the ICF with in floor hot water heat and you have a very comfy house for heat.

I have installed the plastic tub surrounds before. But it has been a number of years and I forgot about that type of adhesive. Thanks for the reminder.

More avenues to check out.

Don

Keep in mind, if you are making a lost foam core mold, you don't want anything very resilient to solvents holding the foam together...

 

[great white]

Well, got the fittings to install the remainder of the fuel supply system today.

4 fitting = 50 bucks!

Eeyow!

Gald darned metric fittings.........

13 bucks a piece since one end is metric, would have been 3 bucks a piece if they were standard.

Oh well, at least I was able to even get them locally.

:rolleyes5:

 

[Matt Bachand]

Might as well mount one pressure gauge before filter, and one after... Maximize your filter life, it would be nice for fast filter check.

Expectations are high now on this custom 'glass tank, after seeing your console shape up!

Keep it up!

Sneak a 'copter photo in!

 

[HighSierra86]

I think we need another hint on the cable

 

[tightgroup]

I have been trying to figure that one out;

Its mechanical so;

e-brake, already has one, cowling or additional vents , unlikely , passenger ejection system.. maybe.. cappucino machine for early morning lattes, I know I could use one, but me thinks no!.

Maybe a cabin heater bypass ?? Turbo related ???

 

[ak diesel driver]

it's a speed control of some sort judging by the handle inscription

 

[NVW]

it's a speed control of some sort judging by the handle inscription

He's going to mount a Briggs & Stratton to help out on the hills on the trip East.:rof:

 

[great white]

The handle and cable are from a lawn mower speed control, so Ak got that part.

It has something to do with hauling a trailer. Look at my trailer brake controller again and you'll see something missing that should be there....