The "restification" of a 98 6.5 TD...

[great white]

Nozzle is installed in the intake. (no Pics yet)

Pump is tucked away all nice and snug in the frame rail, safe from rocks and other nasty debris (and prying eyes):

I only had to drill one hole. I was able to reuse two factory holes already there. There's only three holding the pump on, but I couldn't bring myself to drill another. The pump is solid, doesn't move at all when turned on. The rubber isolators do their job well and everything is stable and quiet.

Uh oh, waitaminute....that's right next to the exhaust pipe. A quick fab heat shield is in order:

That's better.

No, your eyes aren't fooling you. That's the case from an old ECM. I've got lots of 7477 parts left over from my OBDI/TBI days (I mess with 7427's and 411's now). An old case makes a nice little shield.

Next up is to run the tubing, wiring and make the water tank.....

 

[great white]

grrrr......

tubing is run, but when i went to put in the pump 90 degree elbow i noticed it was cracked .

so now i sit here, twirling a jb welded fitting in one hand (so it doesn't all run to one side and drip) waiting for it to firm up and typing with one hand.

I seldom use jb weld, so I missed the 4 hour set time!

dad-gum-it! I've still got lines to clamp up!

grrrrrr.....

 

[NVW]

JB Weld also comes in a quick cure option, set time is just minutes.

 

[great white]

JB Weld also comes in a quick cure option, set time is just minutes.

Yup, but I didn't have that stuff in the cabinet.....

 

[great white]

Lets play "spot the water injection"!

Here?

How about here?

Don't see it yet? An easier angle maybe?

OK, now you have to see it:

Just the way I like it; nice, stealthy and clean......

 

[great white]

Well, took the plunge, ordered the 4" exhaust from a place that has TREASURE in the VALLEY with PERFORMANCE.

342 Cdn shipped to my door.

Strong dollar helped me out a little bit on exchange.

Only problem is it's UPS ground shipping.

Holding my breath that brokerage plus taxes isn't going to be any more than another 100 bucks.

UPS's rate guide says 49.50 for brokerage on 350-500 items, Taxes will be around 25-30 bucks and I'll get dinged with a COD charge and "bond fees" of around 5 bucks each.

If it's any more than their posted rates, they're getting a phone call and there better be a refund of overages....:angryfire:

Even if it's as much as 200 in "brokerage", it's still faster and cheaper than shipping to the border (dropped off at a friends house), have someone pick it up (pay their gas 20 bucks maybe?), meet me at the ferry (200 bucks round trip there), and drive back to my place (50 bucks worth of diesel for the round trip to the ferry and back). That's 250 bucks right there and a heck of a lot of hassle for everybody.

Even if I just walk on the ferry, it's about 50 bucks round trip. Which makes it around 120 bucks and a heck of a lot of hassle.

There's just no easy way out of this.......

But, if brokerage and taxes comes out to the expected approx 100 bucks, I'm money ahead of the shuffling game across the border.

Only thing that sucks is now I have to wait to find out how much I'm going to get raped before I can order my trans temp and LP pressure guages.........:grumble:

 

[Mezmorized]

BJ, I work at a place that sells the Tekonsha brake controllers... I suggest you call Tekonsha and verify the production date on your P3 controller. A run of controllers have issues with the voltage up and down buttons... They stick! Not good when you have a big load and your down button sticks on.

P.S. I believe that the "fixed" version have grey buttons.

Just a FYI for ya

 

[great white]

BJ, I work at a place that sells the Tekonsha brake controllers... I suggest you call Tekonsha and verify the production date on your P3 controller. A run of controllers have issues with the voltage up and down buttons... They stick! Not good when you have a big load and your down button sticks on.

P.S. I believe that the "fixed" version have grey buttons.

Just a FYI for ya

Cool, thanks for the good info!

My unit has the black buttons and they used to stick from time to time.

I took mine apart, cleaned the plastic buttons and case and all is good to go. No issues since.

Besides, my case is all hacked up for the custom install.

Any warranty I had is loooooong gone.....

 

[88gmctruck]

WMI looks good BJ. I do have a question, what name is on that pump? I see it's something performance specific. Reason I ask is because that looks EXACTLY like my shur-flo waterpump for the trailer (well, I have 2 of them). Mine have the external threaded heads instead of internal like yours, but yeah. What did your pump run you?

 

[great white]

WMI looks good BJ. I do have a question, what name is on that pump? I see it's something performance specific. Reason I ask is because that looks EXACTLY like my shur-flo waterpump for the trailer (well, I have 2 of them). Mine have the external threaded heads instead of internal like yours, but yeah. What did your pump run you?

The pump is from devil's own water injection.

I came in a kit and I paid under 200 bucks for the whole thing. 168 comes to mind for some reason. Pretty sure I posted the price I paid further back in this thread somewhere. I snagged it off ebay though, it's a bit more expensive new:

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/2-bar-stage-2-273.html

Mines got a lower capacity pump (200 psi) but it's the same progressive meth system. Gent I got it from bought it new and never installed it. Pulled it off the shelf a couple years later and ebay'd it off.

The pump is made by shurflo. Almost every WMI seller out there uses them.

However, it's not just an RV water pump. I also thought so at first when I was thinking of "rolling my own"..

It is made with specific seals for methanol (no big, I'll be using straight water) and is good up to 200 psi.

The new 5031 pumps are also made by shurflow, but are good to 250 psi. I'm good with the 200 psi model because the 250 is bigger and wouldn't fit the way I want in the frame rail anyways.

Higher pressures are for atomization of water at the nozzle.

You may be able to turn up the regulator on the RV pumps, I just don't know. For 168 for the whole kit with 2 bar progressive controller, I couldn't go wrong.

Shurflow makes all kinds of water pumps.

Heck, the big monsters in my hot tub are also made by shurflow. Just as the water pumps in my new trailer are....

 

[great white]

Dang raptor pump was leaking today!

WTH?!?

Crawled under and sure enough, drips hanging on the base of the pump.

A little bit of investigation finds that the regulator/adjustment shaft has a double o-ring seal on it and one of them had been cut while going into it's bore.

Luckily, Pureflow provided a spares kit with the pump. I whip the shaft out, swap the seals, lube 'em up with a little diesel and plug that puppy back home.

Leaks gone!

Whew.

I would have been torqued off something fierce if that 400 dollar pump had gone south already!

While I was at it, I tweaked the pressure up to 15 PSI.

Truck seems to like that alot more. Starting is easy now and idle/drive quality is noticeably smoother.

Also ordered some replacement o-rings from the local jobber.

Don't want to get "caught out short" out on the road with no spares now, do we?

 

[btfarm]

Also ordered some replacement o-rings from the local jobber.

Don't want to get "caught out short" out on the road with no spares now, do we?

That's insurance it'll never leak again (the o-rings)... :hihi:

 

[JiFaire]

If that happens again, BJ, it might be handy to have some pics of the changeout. I get the feeling a few more people are going to be installing that puppy...

 

[great white]

Started laying up the water tank today.

I must have misplaced a zero or decimal or something when I calculated out how much resin I would need because I am going to be waaaaaayyy short.

Pretty amateurish move on my part. It's not like I've never been to the dance before.

I'll have to buy another gallon jug tomorrow.

One running change I did make was to lay in a piece of chromed flat stock I had lying around in between the layers on the bottom.

6 gallons of water is pretty heavy and the bottom is pretty flat.

IOW: flexible......

 

[88gmctruck]

Where are you mounting the tank, and around what size is it. How long does the reservoir last?

 

[great white]

Where are you mounting the tank, and around what size is it. How long does the reservoir last?

Under the bed, forward of the passenger wheel well, between the outer frame rail and the bed side.

6 gallon.

Dunno. Gonna find out this summer.......

I'm toying with adding a 4 gallon under the bed and tying it into the 6 gallon. But I don't think I'm going to have enough time to get it done before we have to pull up stakes....

 

[great white]

Top and bottom of the water tank are 'glassed and done.

Installed the balance tubes (needed because of the odd shape for filling), filler adapter and the vent line adapter. Basically, it's just pex fittings and clear vinyl tube.

Then I bent up a steel plate for the sump bottom to hold the pipe fitting threaded drain cock and the pump water feed line.

Working on 'glassing the sides and sump today, Then it's a simple matter of 'glassing a removable cover for the top access hole and a few finishing bit's like the water level sensor.

Still have to finish up the wiring to the pump and controller, but that's an easy task. Two lines to the pump, one to the boost gauge and a switch to deactivate the whole system when empty to protect the pump.

Probably be done in another day or two and ready to work on the hangers. Hopefully done this weekend.

 

[Mezmorized]

What will you be running in it?

 

[Burning oil]

Top and bottom of the water tank are 'glassed and done.

Installed the balance tubes (needed because of the odd shape for filling), filler adapter and the vent line adapter. Basically, it's just pex fittings and clear vinyl tube.

Then I bent up a steel plate for the sump bottom to hold the pipe fitting threaded drain cock and the pump water feed line.

Working on 'glassing the sides and sump today, Then it's a simple matter of 'glassing a removable cover for the top access hole and a few finishing bit's like the water level sensor.

Still have to finish up the wiring to the pump and controller, but that's an easy task. Two lines to the pump, one to the boost gauge and a switch to deactivate the whole system when empty to protect the pump.

Probably be done in another day or two and ready to work on the hangers. Hopefully done this weekend.

Got pictures.
Im thinking of adding something like this mainly for MPG gains. Do you know anything about propane injection? I don't even know what its going for per gallon these days, but if its cheaper than diesel I would consider adding it too.
Can you inject at all engine speeds? I believe those systems inject only at a certain boost psi right?

 

[great white]

Got pictures.
Im thinking of adding something like this mainly for MPG gains. Do you know anything about propane injection? I don't even know what its going for per gallon these days, but if its cheaper than diesel I would consider adding it too.
Can you inject at all engine speeds? I believe those systems inject only at a certain boost psi right?

Funny you should ask, I just logged on to post a water tank construction pic:

All 'glassed in and kicking off nicely.



Tomorrow, I'll cut the top open (access hole) and pull out the cardboard form.

I know Snow performance lists a MPG gain with their system (mileage maker I think it's called), but it's quite expensive (somewhere around 600-800 bucks IIRC) and a 1-2 mpg (or maybe it was percent) gain.

Propane is mainly a power adder in diesels, not sure if there's an MPG gain.

Just remember, too much 'pane or meth makes diesels go BOOM! But it goes FAST until it goes BOOM!

The Devils Own kit is a progressive injection and totally adjustable. It is boost referenced (optional EGT referenced), but you can set it to come on wherever you want and max inject wherever you want from "2" psi right on up to the max.

Product link:

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/progressive-controller-14.html

Between these two points, it comes on progressively.

IE: start spraying at two PSI and be a full "X" gph (depends on your nozzle size and pump psi) at 10 psi boost. Ramps up linearly in between those two points.

Most common use for injection is water/meth mix. This gives a power boost and egt cooling.

However, most don't recommend anything over 5-10 % meth, preferably straight water only in our relatively high compression 6.5's. Bill Heath recommends straight water IIRC.

I would suspect any gains that Snows performance claims would be a water meth mix, as meth adds to the available fuel in the cylinder. I doubt water only would give much of an MPG gain.....

Mine is going straight water because it's for EGT control only. Useful for me when towing my 35 foot TT......:rolleyes5: