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The KOJO Tune - Available now!

Well, it's in and working. Feels very different. Speedometer seems to work now, thats hard to get used to. I'm a little worried I'm going to break something- my electronic shift kit is turned off, but I did a mod to the valve body to firm up the shifts. 1-2 shift has been scary hard for a long time, which is why I keep the electronic one turned off. Now with the tune it hits 2nd gear like getting rearended by a freight train. I am pretty sure if I had street tires I would be barking the tires when it shifts. I'm a little worried I might run the driveshaft right through the rear axle and out the back.
It is stronger and definitely feels quicker, but since what I was doing before I cant compare to what I'm doing now with an accurate speedometer, I'm lost. For instance, jumping on it hard and running up to 30 then letting off was okay before. Now doing about the same thing I let off because I think I'm going way too fast for the street, speedo says 40 but it feels completely different. It really seems like things are happening quicker and I have to be more careful. I'm going to really have to relearn driving it, it's so different.
Only negative I noticed was cruising on the highway at 65, I buried the throttle and hit steady 13 lbs boost, then it seemed to defuel and cut out on me. It downshifted first, got some real high rpms and at some point I got a huge kick in the pants, I guess it was a shift because I don't think anyone hit me. Didn't try a 0-top speed run, so I don't know if it would do the same thing. I can cruise at highway speed a little more comfortably.
I should probably refrain from comment until I get a few more miles on it, and learn how to drive it. I will say this though, from 20-50 is VERY sporty. I can see this being fun at stoplights, roll out in 1st to let them know it's on, get into second without breaking anything then WOT up to 50 to let them know who's boss, let off and get back to the speed limit before any cops notice.
I want to go find a 24 valve to pick on...
 
Sorry, had to get some sleep and drive to work after my last posting...

Dan, as my understood there is no reason to keep pedal down while power is turned off.

I dont understand why it would defuel, maybe it is just lack of fuel, do you have fuel pressure gauge?
 
No, but I have not done FTB yet, and I also have weepy rusty lines after the lift pump. Guess I'll add fuel pressure gauge to the list.
 
Just so I'm clear, the highway problem is something it has done for a long time, I'm not trying to lay that at Kojos feet. If your truck doesn't roll over like a whipped dog now on the highway, Kojo tune isn't going to make it happen.
I thought maybe the vssb would clear it up, or the stock tune defueling. Still have to look at other things, namely fuel lines and FTB mod. If that doesn't fix it, I'll look into a better lift pump. I'm leaning toward FTB, didn't I read somewhere that over 80% throttle the stock line cant supply enough fuel?
 
I have measured 3 suburbans with chip and stock style liftpump. in everyone fuel pressure dropped below zero when accelarating at full throttle.
Meter was connected to water drain valve so there is still some restrictions after that when fuel is going to ip, but ftb takes care of them, and better lift pump (i prefer walbro) should take care fuel coming to filter.
 
kojo said:
I have measured 3 suburbans with chip and stock style liftpump. in everyone fuel pressure dropped below zero when accelarating at full throttle.
Meter was connected to water drain valve so there is still some restrictions after that when fuel is going to ip, but ftb takes care of them, and better lift pump (i prefer walbro) should take care fuel coming to filter.
Click to expand...

If it drops to 0 BEFORE the Primary fuel filter, you can only imaging how fast it was at zero at the IP.

When I installed my new WALBRO I was reading 7-8 or so at the Water Drain, but then installed my in cab fuel pressure gauge T-d right before the IP, and I was idling at 1psi and it would instantly hit zero with any throttle.

A new filter resolved psi's to about 3-4psi after FFM but still 7-8psi before FFM.

My NEW Walbro will max out my 10psi fuel guage BEFORE FFM, and idle at 7 or so AFTER FFM, under heavy throttle it drops to about 2psi.

Long story short, if you don't have 5+ going into the FFM, with even a fresh Fuel filter, your probably dangerously close to 0 after the filter under heavy accel. The weaker the lift pump, the more severe this effect.
 
Leroy can get the Walbro for you if you have any trouble. And as soon as you drop to 0 pressure, those weeping lines becomes air suckers.

And the fuel/water drain port is pre-filter, so like Matt said when measured post filter the pressure is a few psi less.
 
Well I could only find one place selling Walbro, was around $112 I think. Does that sound right? And where should I put the gauge, after the filter seems better to me. That way I know what the IP is getting all the time, plus it should show if the filter starts getting too dirty.
Most all the gauges I found are inline mechanical style gauges, but I want an electrical one in the cab where I can watch it all the time. I'm going to order a 3 pod pillar gauge mount once I measure my banks gauges and figure out what size to get.
 
You can still use a remote mechanical gauge into the cab, since the electrical ones are expensive, but you must accept the possibility of leaking fuel into the cab. Probably the best most economical electric one is from Chief Aircraft, but it has a square mounting, which can be easier in some ways.

Also get that FTB mod done, it really does help, and leaking fuel lines are always a big no no.
 
Maybe I could put it on the hood, but most of what I've seen is small, I'd need a bifocal windshield to read it. Dont really want fuel in the cab, though I suppose its a lot safer than gasoline.
I just noticed the fuel lines when I was changing the oil, so they are at the top of the list to fix.
 
chevyCowboy said:
matt did you have to buy a sender with that or is that for the whole deal every thing needed to make it work?
Click to expand...

Comes complete with sender. Works fantastic. Doesn't look as nice as my other gauges at night though. The light doesn't illuminate through the face like a more expensive gauge would. It just kindof lights up around it... so what.
 
if you can still see it good enough to read it oh well eventally im going to buy all matching autometers but dont have that kinda money right now and really want a fuel pressure gauge
 
chevyCowboy said:
if you can still see it good enough to read it oh well eventally im going to buy all matching autometers but dont have that kinda money right now and really want a fuel pressure gauge
Click to expand...

So get it! Gauges are gauges IMO. After they are installed they all look good, and even though I have 3 different brands of gauges all over my dash They all look good, and not out of place.

I do like my Glowshift gauge the best for looks, and it daisy chains for easy install of other Glowshifts. However, for a reason maybe to fault the gauge or maybe my possessed fuel readings, but Full reads 1/2 on the gauge, and when I'm out of fuel the gauge reads full! To me its automatic, when the light comes on saying I'm overfull, it means I better put some fuel in fast or I'll run out!
 
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