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The KOJO Tune - Available now!

I won't get into the optic bump fray, but I have been running a bump for quite some time. I like it, now that being said I have been tutored by the BEST (GMCTD) regarding the optic bump, he does not recommend it and I don't either.

As Buddy said it you are fooling the computer, the long and the short of it is that you are adding fuel the computer does not see, hence the rough idle if you go to far and the touchy accel pedal, both indicative of the optic bump.

A smooth idle on a ds4 pump is controlled by the pump/PCM controlling the amount of fuel *injection time* of each injector at idle as it relates to crankshaft rotation speed per cylinder pulse. The pcm monitors crank speed from the crank shaft positioning sensor and uses that to monitor cylinder pulse speed.Time between each pulse or tooth on the sensor. (hope that makes sense)

If you use a scanner (the only way) to set your optic bump you can achieve a smooth idle and a relatively livable accel pedal feel. You will get a trailer hitch effect when running cruise control going down an incline, it is inherent, That being said Kojo's tune did minimize that as well because we had discussed my truck before he made my chip.

The bump also adds some inherent wear to the pump because of the added pressure on the rollers, That is all I am going to say about that.

If you would like to experiment, you can do this set your pump to your desired TDC offset and then do a timing relearn, now that everything is ok. Manually move your IP to different positions. See what happens as you do. This will change your Timing and fuel events without changing anything the pcm sees. (note this will not last past 50 key cycles on the OBD1, I am not sure on the OBD 2 how long this will last. It is a fun experience. The GM manual will tell you that this will not effect timing (it does) after all we are mechanically moving the pump which changes injection timing as a mechanical event.
 
All the Guru's are antibump.........As Slim said, GMCTD included, if you go back to the archives in the page, around the 2004 era, you will find very technical retorts from jd to TexasDieselGuy......very interesting stuff for those that are interested.
 
my cruise control doesn't work. Acts up at highway speed. Come to think of it, my truck doesnt like highway speed. My speedo only goes to 60, regardless of whether I'm going 60 or 80. It hasnt worked right since I messed with the speed sensors when I was fixing the trans. I have no power at highway speed. If I want to pass someone, I can't even hit it hard or it falls on its face. Yet it pulls hard from 0-60. Real hard.
Theoretically I shouldn't have lost top end when I upsized the tires, right? Stock I used to be able to hit 100 mph. Can't even dream about that now.
 
I dont think so, I mean it runs and pulls every where but at higher speed. I've noticed it's better with the ATT, I can run 80 (estimated) and while it doesnt have any power to accelerate any more, it won't buck and shudder and puke like it did before. Fortunately I rarely drive on the highway, and I really can offer no good reason for needing to drive at more than 80 mph anyway, and I'm sure the Governors Fundraising Squad (state police)feels the same way.
I suspect it has more to do with the oversize tires confusing the vssb or computer, rather than fuel. But I'll always take more fuel if I can get it. I was planning on discussing this one issue with Walking J and KOJO when I order the tune, which is any day now (yay!).
 
I recommend you should update your VSSB, it affects speedo, cruise, computer and abs too if it is calibrated wrong. It is not hard job to solder dip switches to VSSB so it can be calibrated very easy.
Your cruise problem is propably related to that vssb problem..
How much you had boost when it started shudder and puke with old turbo? i was thinking maybe computer went to over boost mode.
 
I dont think it was overboost, at a medium boost on the highway, say 5-9 lbs, a little more application of throttle would net me nothing, no acceleration, and maybe some bucking. I do think it's the vssb but I dont know anything about soldering in dip switches, nor do I know what a dip switch is.
That's why I hate electronics. Stupid transmission. IMO a fri**in' one ton truck ought to be able to turn a 33 inch tire without having a hissy fit.
 
Oww my head, stop the math! Can someone draw me a picture in crayon preferably? Lets start with a drawing of a dipswitch.

kojo, glad I got your attention. I'm about to order the tune (just putting my wrecked truck back together today), is this vssb something I should do first, or soon, or what?
 
First dip switch looks like this http://www.allproducts.com/manufacture97/cxwtdzgs/product1.jpg pic is large, but they are small components IRL.

If your VSSB wont work right it can cause transmission make some stupid things, but my opinion is it makes them same way if you have tune or not, your cruise problem is propably related to VSSB (or injection pump (if computer goes to backup fuel mode for any reason it drops cruise off)) so not necessary do VSSB fix first, but soon..
 
Oww my head, stop the math! Can someone draw me a picture in crayon preferably? Lets start with a drawing of a dipswitch.

kojo, glad I got your attention. I'm about to order the tune (just putting my wrecked truck back together today), is this vssb something I should do first, or soon, or what?

Start up your own thread and everyone will help you (hold your hand) through the ordeal. Here's an extra thinking cap I'm not gonna use tonight....

:tiphat :thumbsup:
 
how much tuning can you do with the torque converter lockup perameters? can you tune it so you can manually lock 2nd 3rd and 4th and it won't set limp mode?

also, say you had a manual switch for the fuel shutoff solenoid, if you switched it while you had the converter locked up would it set a code? how about if you switched the fuel off with manual transmission?
 
I could set those codes off so it wont newer throw codes for those, but cant know how it acts, it can go to limp mode even without code if there would be reason for code.

I understand your point in locking TCC couz stock gm tc slips so much on small rpm's but why on earth you'd want turn your engine off while driving? Installing switch for fuel shut off solenoid and using it while tcc is locked and your vehicle is mowing would propably cause some damage to IP
 
I could set those codes off so it wont newer throw codes for those, but cant know how it acts, it can go to limp mode even without code if there would be reason for code.

I understand your point in locking TCC couz stock gm tc slips so much on small rpm's but why on earth you'd want turn your engine off while driving? Installing switch for fuel shut off solenoid and using it while tcc is locked and your vehicle is mowing would propably cause some damage to IP

if the fuel shut off could be activated, I've found a relatively simple way of making an engine compression brake for our trucks ( jake brake), which if you have an automatic there would need to be some way to lock the converter on deceleration without tossing the ecu into limp mode.
 
ECM drops fuel rate automatically to 0 when you lift your foot off from accelerator pedal, and keeps it in 0 until rpm is enough low to start idling.
 
I agree with KOJO.....I've seen this on my laptop with GMTD Tech.....if engine is higher than desired idle and no throttle is requested(i.e. foot off the gas pedal) then there is no fuel injected......0.....nada.....
 
so what is your simple jake brake?

basicly a modified knock off of the MACK powerleash setup. (you'll have to browse the mack site to see how it works there is a flash video I can't link)

regrind the cam to "shrink" the base circle and put an extra lump on the exhaust side. and incorporate an extra hydraulic lifter into the rocker arm that "pumps up" when a solenoid releases oil flow to it and allows it to contact the second bump on the cam.
 
How is that simple :)

You do not want to add an extra lobe on the exhaust, as you dont want turbo backpressure pushing exhaust into the cylinders. Backpressure will always be greater than boost pressure. There is zero overlap of the valves with stock cam to prevent that. If you open exhaust valve during say the intake or compression stroke either is not good.

What might be interesting though to reduce EGTs and Head temps would be to add a small bump on the intake lobe, so that it opens during combustion stroke (like 50BBC to BDC).
 
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